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ET 48 2.0 steering binding with 5075 coupler

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MikeH

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Building the et48 2.0. On the front end the steering is binding with the 5075 coupler. When I steer left or right it the steering engages the coupler. Will try and attach pic. Thanks for the help.
 

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Is your car fully assembled? The steering should lock out before the crank goes far enough to hit the outdrive.
 
It is not fully assembled. I will proceed based on your advise. Thanks.
 
OK so I'm building another ET48 2.0 kit and I also have this exact issue - I'm sure I didn't have this with my first kit so I'm wondering if something has changed with the second batch of these kits??

On full lock left or right, the steering bell crank arms hit the 5075 outdrive - hence you are unable to steer fully either way (the steering stop screws at the spindles do not hit their end points so the steering hasn't fully locked out - if steering was to lock out before hitting the outdrive, the steering stop screws have a good 5mm or so gap to their endpoints).

Kit is fully assembled (I just took the steering assembly top cover off for the below pics while I investigated the issue).
Have checked length of steering linkages etc too. All correct.

I even took the bell crank apart to make sure I hadn't missed anything, but nope.....

As it stands, I can leave things be and set steering endpoints via my radio later to make sure the coupler is not hit while steering.....not ideal, but the only solution I can see at the moment......

Pics attached......

IMG_4041.jpg
IMG_4042.jpg
 
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Ifti,

I am actually following your original build thread for my build. Have disassembled and reassembled the steering system twice to no avail. Maybe it's a systemic problem with this version. I would prefer not to limit steering throw. If Tekno is unable to provide a fix or advise if I have done something incorrectly am considering taking a dremel to both arms. Thanks.
 
Ifti,

I am actually following your original build thread for my build. Have disassembled and reassembled the steering system twice to no avail. Maybe it's a systemic problem with this version. I would prefer not to limit steering throw. If Tekno is unable to provide a fix or advise if I have done something incorrectly am considering taking a dremel to both arms. Thanks.
Is it possible for you to check the depth of the bellcrank posts cutouts? It should be a depth of 1mm. Also try checking the flange on the bottom of the post, it should be 2.5mm.
1622566585151.png

1622566176659.png
 
Ive taken a look into that - had it apart twice! That all seems OK - but something is still off......

I was sure these plastic steering posts should sit further down flush onto the chassis once the metal internal posts are screwed into the recess??

IMG_4046.jpg


I then thought maybe I didn't have the posts seated into the recess properly - ie the flat edges lined up with the recess in the chassis, but alas all is good there too.

It seems a thought the entire steering assembly is sitting lower down than usual, hence hits the outdrive at full lock either side. But saying that, everything seems to 'fit' together otherwise......

IMG_4047.jpg


IMG_4048.jpg


IMG_4049.jpg


IMG_4050.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics Ifti! I think they may have helped me figure this out.

As most people know we went to a stiffer material on the bulkheads. This tightened up the screw holes and can make it difficult to fully tighten them down. Looking at your pictures, it looks like the bulkhead is not fully tightened down onto the chassis. It probably feels like it is because of how tight the screws are. I can't quite tell if Mikes is doing the same thing but I would guess that it is.

The first kit you built was using the old plastics which is why you probably didn't have any issues.
Here's your pic highlighting the gap on the B block. Comparing to my personal truck and the computer files, the gap on your truck is too big.
 

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Makes sense - it was certainly much easier to get the bulkhead screws in with the first unit. This time round the screws were much tougher to get into place - made me think I was losing my strength! lol

Nevertheless, theres no way the B block will key all the way down to the chassis, not completely flush. But saying that, I did manage to get another half screw turn out of the rear most bulkhead screws and the bulkhead is complete flush with the chassis - no gap whatsoever. This has halved the gap you see in the image above between the B Block and the chassis, and thankfully thats all it took. I can now get full lock on the steering assembly each side, and by turning the driveshaft I no longer feel the outdrive touching the steering assembly.

Generally most wouldn't crank down on the screws that hard for fear of stripping threads in the plastic so you may get more making the same mistake though.......

Thanks for the assist!!!!

@MikeH - most likely the same issue with yours - try it and get back with an update!
 
No luck here. I cranked down the screws as far as possible there is little to no gap, but still no help. Here is pic. Apologize for the lack of quality. Any other thoughts? Thanks
 

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Your front tires have some toe out, correct? If you have toe in the servo will have to turn too far to get full steering. I can't think of too much else it could be.
 
Strange - your B block does look closer to the chassis then mine, yet my steering assembly now clears the outdrive.......
 
Strange - your B block does look closer to the chassis then mine, yet my steering assembly now clears the outdrive.......
Removed the linkage completly. It appears it wasn't binding due to the linkage. As you will see in the vid, when I turn the steering the coupler turns?? Any thoughts? Thanks. It appears I can't upload a .mov file.
 
You would need to upload any video files to a hosting platform like YouTube, then link to it here......

Are you sure the bulkhead has been tightened properly?
Also when you placed the diff into the front gearbox, did it sit tight on either side? If not you need to use the included shims to make sure there is absolutely no side to side movement. I managed to get in one shim up front, none in the rear.....
 
The bulkhead appears to be tightened properly - I have done it twice. The diff was tight with no room for shims.
I don't quite understand how turning the steering left and right causes the cva's to turn??
Thanks for the reply
 
I think you have your CV's assembled incorrectly. Make sure that the pin goes through the slot in the driveshaft and through the hole in the barrel.

Here's a pic, I've highlighted the barrel in blue.
1622670810984.png
 

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