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New build and new Hobbywing electronics questions!

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zuggzugg

Member
Messages
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Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Hello!

I just got my new MT410 kit and am looking to splurge a bit with the components! I've already bought or have all the recommended tools.

Currently I'm looking at these two options for the electronics. Does anyone have any experience with them? I saw they are relatively new which is one of the main draws of the system for me.
Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Plus G2S Brushless ESC/4274 G3 Motor Combo (2250kV)
Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Plus G2S Brushless ESC/4268SD G3 Motor Combo (1900kV)

I skipped over the 2200kv version and the 2000kv sadly says it's for on-road use only? :cautious: I'm wondering about the motor size. The 1900kv and 2200kv are 4268 motors. Something I'm considering which is making me favor the 2250kv over the 1900kv (which I know is closer to the recommended size of 2000kv) is that the 2250kv is a 4274 motor. From my research I'm seeing that even Tekno recommends that size motor. I also like that it supports 6s. I'm going to run it on 4s but it's nice to know that I have the option later down the road.

I know a good amount of people are using this and it's still probably 3rd on the list below the above two.
Castle Creations Monster X 1/8 Brushless Combo w/1515 Sensored Motor (2200Kv)

The part of me that wants to get the newest stuff and splurge is what is making me look at the 2250kv Hobbywing.

I also have looked at:
HobbyStar 4274 Brushless, Sensored Motor, 2000KV, 1/8 RC Monster Truck Truggy
Castle Creations Mamba Monster X Waterproof 1/8 Scale Brushless ESC

This seems like a good deal but again, I'm willing to spend that extra 100 or so to get the newer matching set from Hobbywing. I do like that this motor is both the ideal size and speed that everyone seems to agree on. It's just older and again, a non matching setup. I would probably choose this if I were limited my budget.

Waterproofing isn't a super big deal to me as I'm not the type to really want to drive my car in wet and/or muddy conditions.

So I guess the TLDR is this.

I'm leaning towards the 2250kv with it being 4274 and the newest from Hobbywing. I am worried it's too much over the 2000kv mark though. Should I be? Seeing as how the Castle setup is so popular, is 2200kv, and not 4274? Would I gear it basically the same as the Castle setup with a 16t or maybe even 18t pinion? I'd only be able to go as small as 15t when using 6s as well iirc?

I know the 1900kv version is closer to the ideal 2000kv but it's 4268. How much doesn't that matter? If the difference isn't a big deal, should I get this one instead to allow a better conversion to 6s? I might never actually run it on 6s so I don't want to base any decisions that would hinder 4s performance in actual favor of 6s. BUT, I do like knowing I can run it and it wouldn't be an issue. From my research, the recommended 4274 motor size keeps sticking out in my head as being an important point.

So I guess I need someone to talk me out of the 2250kv version in favor of the 1900kv or just tell me that the 2250kv will rip on 4s and that I should just send it!


The rest of the build is below. I'm less torn between these parts and I feel I'm pretty set on what is listed. Unless someone can suggest something better!

Servo. Splurge that extra fiddy. ;) - Haven't bought yet
ProTek RC 170SBL Black Label High Speed Brushless Servo (High Voltage/Metal Case) (Digital)

The others that caught my eye.
Savox SB-2292SG Black Edition Monster Torque Brushless Steel Gear Servo (High Voltage)
Savox SV-1272SG Digital "Monster Torque" Metal Gear Servo (High Voltage)

Battery. Already bought this.
Gens ace 14.8V 4S 50C 5000mAh LiPo Battery Pack HardCase
Went with this one because it's on sale right now. I'm down to get a higher capacity one later I'm sure.

Body. Already bought this.
HPI Racing 7177 Chevy El Camino SS Clear Body Savage Flux HP / T-Maxx
Even though the kit is a monster truck, I'm not a fan of trucks/truck bodies in general so I knew a traditional truck body was out. This body actually swayed me a little into even buying the MT410 just because I thought it would look sick. I have an airbrush already from miniature painting so I think I can do a pretty decent paintjob on it.

Tires. Already bought.
Arrma BLX 4x4 Backflip LP 4S 3.8 Pre-Mounted 1/8 Monster Truck Tires
Seems like the standard so it was an easy choice.

Radio. Already own.
Flysky FS-GT5 6CH RC Transmitter with FS BS6 Receiver
Flysky FS BS6 Receiver 2.4Ghz 6CH for Flysky FS-GT5
The cheapest part of the build is my current radio setup. I have a Losi Mini T and a Kyosho Fazer that I also use with it and have had no connectivity or range issues so far. I'm not racing anything. I am not super concerned about upgrading the radio and receiver just yet. As I mentioned, I haven't had any issues with my other cars so far. IF I were to upgrade, I've been looking at Futaba 7PXR. Maybe by then the 10PX will have an R version or price drop. :cool:

I'm also not planning on bashing at a super extreme level.

Thanks for any and all help! I want to pull the trigger on this stuff! Still need to get the kit built though!
 
Last edited:
I’m using the

Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Plus G2S Brushless ESC/4274 G3 Motor Combo (2250kV)​

And it’s awesome on 4s !
Thats great to hear! No issues with esc durability or anything? Had a few replies in the fb group saying this new one isn't as tough as the max8.
 
Thats great to hear! No issues with esc durability or anything? Had a few replies in the fb group saying this new one isn't as tough as the max8.
Oops! My bad…. I have the Max8.😵‍💫
1CC00CCF-7A22-4A13-8116-8202D881CFF3.png
 
I actually answered the FB post. Long story short.

What differs a good experience from a bad one is not features or even capabilities, it is play time! In other words, unless you are a trained driver you will barely notice the difference between racing electronics and bashing electronics. And you will likely never use the refined setup options they offer.

On the other hand, what is going to piss you off is going to the park and fixing your stuff while the buddies are playing. This is why most bashers dump sensor arrays and sensitive electronics sooner rather than later.

Just trying to give you a different perspective on things. If I had to do it, it would be Castle + no brand motor that has the exact kv range that I need. The HW with 2250kv 4274 motor will work perfectly and look a lot better in the truck for sure but not worth the $$ IMO!
 
I actually answered the FB post. Long story short.

What differs a good experience from a bad one is not features or even capabilities, it is play time! In other words, unless you are a trained driver you will barely notice the difference between racing electronics and bashing electronics. And you will likely never use the refined setup options they offer.

On the other hand, what is going to piss you off is going to the park and fixing your stuff while the buddies are playing. This is why most bashers dump sensor arrays and sensitive electronics sooner rather than later.

Just trying to give you a different perspective on things. If I had to do it, it would be Castle + no brand motor that has the exact kv range that I need. The HW with 2250kv 4274 motor will work perfectly and look a lot better in the truck for sure but not worth the $$ IMO!
Thanks for your reply both here and on FB! I'm hoping the durability is there for this racing combo. I won't be sending this thing the same way most others will. I do agree about the other option. If anything does go wrong or I for some reason build another kit of this size, I will get the Castle MMX with the hobbystar 4274 2000kv motor. I do live 30 mins from Thornhill. Maybe I could get a few laps in on the track. :p
 
Thanks for your reply both here and on FB! I'm hoping the durability is there for this racing combo. I won't be sending this thing the same way most others will. I do agree about the other option. If anything does go wrong or I for some reason build another kit of this size, I will get the Castle MMX with the hobbystar 4274 2000kv motor. I do live 30 mins from Thornhill. Maybe I could get a few laps in on the track. :p
Nothing wrong indulging in some nice electronics! Enjoy & post some pics of the build! ☺️
 
Nothing wrong indulging in some nice electronics! Enjoy & post some pics of the build! ☺️
I wanted to start building it already but I ordered some other diff fluid to start with based on razor rcs vid tuning guide. 40k/100k/20k instead of the 100k/100k/50k stock.
 
Have you looked at the new Max8 G2 with 2250kv motor..!!
My MT410 is getting a refit soon, I think I'll go with a MMX/TpPower setup or the new HW Max8 G2😎
The new motor is a 4278… 78mm long. As opposed to the traditional 74mm long truggy cans. Not sure it fits without ESC relocation.
 
Oh, that's a pain, I also noticed the sensor cable comes out the opposite end of the ESC making that wider too....😩
 
Everything is finally here!
 

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Some progress shots!

As I'm finishing up the build I'm looking up the droop settings. I can't seem to find a good diagram of how/where to measure the recommended 115mm from. I have 4s backflip tires that I'll be using. Can someone post a picture of what this measurement looks like? Some of the pictures I've seen are just the shock, which tells me nothing. I also saw some posts where the droop tabs are cut off or the screws are not even used. I want to build it up as stock as possible first to get to know the truck.

She's almost done!
 

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Droop.png
 
Thank you! Is this also measured with the truck suspended or on the ground. Would i have to adjust the shock collars to hit the 115mm as well? Right now just lowered them so the shocks springs aren't sliding up the shaft super loose.
 
You would measure droop with the suspension fully extended. The shock collars add or remove spring preload to adjust ride height. These are two different things. Adjust the droop with the screw in the arm. If you can't get to where you want to be a small amount can be had shorter or longer by loosening or tightening the lower shock mounting eyelet on the shock shaft.
 

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