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48 2.0 Steering stop screw & EPA question

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Los Angeles
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Hello EB48 2.0 drivers,

I just finished building the buggy, installed the electronics in it and started setting up EPA when came across an interesting issue. The end-point varies very significantly based on the position of the arm. I was planning on running the screw as recommended in the instructions but with no washer to maximize turning capabilities.

How did you guys set the EPA?

Here are two pics, Servo / servo horn are in the same position. First pic, arm is hanging down to maximum droop. Stop screw is far from the stop. Second pic, arm is pushed up and shock compressed. The stop screw almost touches the stop surface. Do you use this worst case position for your end point adjustment?

IMG_2702.JPG


IMG_2703.JPG
 
I don't know of anyone using the screws for the steering stops, in fact many folks are grinding the caster blocks to get more steering throw:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/build-review-eb48-2-0.1864/post-17134

When setting the EPA, I find it best to do with the wheels installed and the car sitting flat on the ground/table. I make sure to go full lock all the way to each steering stop so I get max possible steering in both directions without any binding on the servo. Some folks will go 1-2 points on the radio just past where the servo starts to bind just to make sure they get the absolute max possible steering, but this can risk prematurely damaging your servo if you decide to go to that extreme.

I've also seen some folks remove the front shocks so the chassis has bottomed out, then set the EPA which will ensure that the servo can't go past the stops when landing on a jump and full lock steering.
 
I don't know of anyone using the screws for the steering stops, in fact many folks are grinding the caster blocks to get more steering throw:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/build-review-eb48-2-0.1864/post-17134

When setting the EPA, I find it best to do with the wheels installed and the car sitting flat on the ground/table. I make sure to go full lock all the way to each steering stop so I get max possible steering in both directions without any binding on the servo. Some folks will go 1-2 points on the radio just past where the servo starts to bind just to make sure they get the absolute max possible steering, but this can risk prematurely damaging your servo if you decide to go to that extreme.

I've also seen some folks remove the front shocks so the chassis has bottomed out, then set the EPA which will ensure that the servo can't go past the stops when landing on a jump and full lock steering.

Thanks Bill! That last part is very useful.

The stop screws are gone! ?
 
Bill is WAY more experienced than I am, but thought I'd offer up some perspective from a sportsman-class spec racer.

Fast drivers are much more adept at handling more steering throw on the track. For me, I found that using the steering stop (along with dialing down the expo a bit) helped my lap times a ton by improving tight cornering stability and consistency. In essence it reduced steering twitch and just feels more planted throughout the turns.

I second Bill's recommendation of setting up your EPA with the buggy on a flat surface with wheels mounted and the car settled - it's a good overall "neutral" position.

I do think you should try with and without the steering stops and see what works best. You may find that the steering limiters help you smooth out those corners, straighten out the buggy faster and get on the throttle a bit earlier. (y)
 
For many years as a sportsman level driver, I had dialed back the EPA as a crutch to limit the steering throw, and while this improved my consistency, it would severely impact my lap times which prevented me from getting any faster. I slowly forced myself to adapt to more aggressive car setups posted by the pros and I saw my lap times would indeed get faster but at the expense of my consistency being reduced.

There is a point of diminishing return from both sides of having too stable of a setup vs too aggressive. What I have found to work best for me is to limit steering speed instead of EPA. Then I look at my race log to see if PR for a 5 min run is improving, that's the measure to see is getting enough hot laps is faster than the decrease in consistency.

If your car spins out then your setup is off... car should be able to drift the corners on power so you can still carry close to the same corner speed when traction is down. I typically go back and forth about 5 points on my steering speed to adjust for traction conditions... I always keep max throw on the EPA always, if your car can't do a figure 8 within a 4' box then you're going to hurt your lap times :(
 
I know it's an old thread but others like me new to the game will once again stumble upon this thread so I'll give my limited perception from my limited experience in this hobby.

According to the manual the turn stops stablizes the inner wheel at max throws. If you look at the steering links at max throws especially with arm droop as the chassis rolls - you will notice the extreme angles of the steering links that any slop in steering is greatly exaggerated at this point and also because the inner wheel is lightly loaded the inner wheel will float with little steering control.

As far as how this actually effects the turn physics someone else can chime in as I do not know, but the manual says it makes turns more consistent.

Another point of going past the stops in EPA is to preload the servo saver. I find the servo saver at stock tension is noticeably overpowered by turning forces at max throws.
 

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