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Messages
960
Reaction score
715
Location
Los Angeles
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Hi all,

New to the forum and Tekno. Looking for advice.

Got into RC a year ago buying Traxxas truck for the kid, built one from the ground up for myself too. mainly for off road.

Now contemplating the opportunity to street race with guys in my area and want to get a much more serious platform to work with. Eyeing a used EB48.4.

What do you guys think:
Should i buy used? What should i be looking for?
Is the EB48.4 a good platform for street / parking lot racing? Is it overkill?

I already have GRPs, Mamba X, 2650kv Castle motor, 3s Lipo.

Thanks for your help!
 
Hi Nicochau, welcome to the forums!

If you're gonna buy used, then I don't think you will get a better deal than buying TEKNO. They tend to hold up and wear less than most race grade brands, plus they offer a lifetime 50% warranty for any worn/broken parts you mail into them:
https://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/

TEKNO plastic is the most durable I've seen in the industry, chances are the arms will have wallowed out at the suspension arms pins, and/or those pins might bend over time. Kinda hard to tell without rebuilding the car to inspect. The most obvious signs of wear will happen on the out drives, normally the pins on the dog bones should be replaced periodically. I use the Mugen Pin Replacement Tool myself. The cost for the tool pays for itself on the very first use. It's far more economical to replace the pins rather then buy a new set of shafts. I have a SCT410.1 that is 6+ years old and it still has all original shafts on it. The key is to replace the pins at the first hint of any flat spots forming on them. If you don't then those flat spots will cut into the out drives and wear them out. If you don't replace worn out drives, then you will snap the drive shafts. Everything has a cascading effect, for instance, if you ever blow out a bearing in a hub, then excessive heat will have formed and melted the plastic causing slop in the hub. If you don't replace the hub, and simply put a fresh bearing in it, then you will continue to blow out bearings repeatedly.

That said, I would plan to buy a full set of bearings anyway, do a fresh rebuild, and go through the old pile of bearings to see which are still good, clean the good ones and prep your bearings for the next rebuild to make rebuilds go more quickly.

TEKNO is hardly overkill, consider it an investment that will stand the test of time... if properly cared for. What I like about TEKNO is that they do a really good job of providing parts for legacy vehicles too, if they discontinue a part, then there's always a forward compatible option so you don't ever have to worry about getting stuck with a car without parts support no matter how old it is.

GRP's are pretty good tires for street racing, if you are serious about buying the car, then I will work on an asphalt setup for you if interested. I used to run GT8 and did a RC8Be conversion many years ago, and can help you come up with a competitive ride in no time. Another speed secret is to sauce your tires, you can buy over the counter stuff from Sticky Kicks, or make your own blend using an empty shock bottle, flush it out with automotive Chlorinated Brake Cleaner, then fill it half way with the same brake cleaner and fill the other half of the bottle with Liquid Wrench spray. Place a few drops of solution on the tire and rub it in with an old toothbrush, apply sauce about 10 minutes before each race and it will feel like velco on a prepped asphalt track ;)

Here's my buggy conversion to give you an idea of what to expect:
 
Hi Nicochau, welcome to the forums!

If you're gonna buy used, then I don't think you will get a better deal than buying TEKNO. They tend to hold up and wear less than most race grade brands, plus they offer a lifetime 50% warranty for any worn/broken parts you mail into them:
https://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/

TEKNO plastic is the most durable I've seen in the industry, chances are the arms will have wallowed out at the suspension arms pins, and/or those pins might bend over time. Kinda hard to tell without rebuilding the car to inspect. The most obvious signs of wear will happen on the out drives, normally the pins on the dog bones should be replaced periodically. I use the Mugen Pin Replacement Tool myself. The cost for the tool pays for itself on the very first use. It's far more economical to replace the pins rather then buy a new set of shafts. I have a SCT410.1 that is 6+ years old and it still has all original shafts on it. The key is to replace the pins at the first hint of any flat spots forming on them. If you don't then those flat spots will cut into the out drives and wear them out. If you don't replace worn out drives, then you will snap the drive shafts. Everything has a cascading effect, for instance, if you ever blow out a bearing in a hub, then excessive heat will have formed and melted the plastic causing slop in the hub. If you don't replace the hub, and simply put a fresh bearing in it, then you will continue to blow out bearings repeatedly.

That said, I would plan to buy a full set of bearings anyway, do a fresh rebuild, and go through the old pile of bearings to see which are still good, clean the good ones and prep your bearings for the next rebuild to make rebuilds go more quickly.

TEKNO is hardly overkill, consider it an investment that will stand the test of time... if properly cared for. What I like about TEKNO is that they do a really good job of providing parts for legacy vehicles too, if they discontinue a part, then there's always a forward compatible option so you don't ever have to worry about getting stuck with a car without parts support no matter how old it is.

GRP's are pretty good tires for street racing, if you are serious about buying the car, then I will work on an asphalt setup for you if interested. I used to run GT8 and did a RC8Be conversion many years ago, and can help you come up with a competitive ride in no time. Another speed secret is to sauce your tires, you can buy over the counter stuff from Sticky Kicks, or make your own blend using an empty shock bottle, flush it out with automotive Chlorinated Brake Cleaner, then fill it half way with the same brake cleaner and fill the other half of the bottle with Liquid Wrench spray. Place a few drops of solution on the tire and rub it in with an old toothbrush, apply sauce about 10 minutes before each race and it will feel like velco on a prepped asphalt track ;)

Here's my buggy conversion to give you an idea of what to expect:

Thanks @Billl DeLong ! Love that GT8 conversion by the way.

I'm pretty much convinced with the value of getting a proper RC kit. I'll try to catch that EB48.4 roller this afternoon and will let you know as soon as I do. Looking forward to learning from you guys and enjoying this new RC.
 
Merry Christmas to all!!

Following on the pin comment, how would you rate pin wear in the pictures below. This is from one of the rollers I'm discussing. They seem rather good to me. All comments are welcome.

pins.jpg


pins2.jpg

pins3.jpg

Thanks,
 
only concern I have is the following pic shows the sway bar guide not properly locked in, you might need to replace the grub screw to properly fasten it back in place where I placed an arrow on where it's supposed to be secured to prevent the bar from sliding out of place:

Capture.JPG
 
only concern I have is the following pic shows the sway bar guide not properly locked in, you might need to replace the grub screw to properly fasten it back in place where I placed an arrow on where it's supposed to be secured to prevent the bar from sliding out of place:

View attachment 1873
Good catch Bill!
 
Congrats!

I would completely break it down to nothing but bare aluminum chassis, lots of grime will build up in hard to reach crevices. I'd lose the mud guards on the rear arms, extra sprung weight isn't necessary, especially for on-road racing.

To start out with I would get 300K diff fluid for both the front/center diffs and 40K fluid for the rear diff, that's the stock setup for the Serpent Cobra.

They also use 1K fluid in the shocks both front/rear.

I would get the hardest springs up front (Orange) and then run the Yellow front springs on the rear.

I would start out with a ride height of 10mm front and rear, box stock settings everywhere else, then make tuning changes from there.

Good Luck!
 
Hi all,

So here is my shopping list before I start the build. All comments are welcome.

New electronics:

New hardware
Comment: currently have what seems to be Yellow in the front and Orange in the rear of the roller.


Body & armor:

Maintenance & Tools & Setup

Re-used electronics:
  • 3s Lipo
  • Mamba X
  • Castle 2650kv
  • PowerHD 23kg Servo

Comment: I know this is all on the low-end side of things for this type of RC. Planning on living with it and learning with it before I upgrade.


For (my) Reference:


WqP8uVywf07lC3nOXmhTvD4VXSwxSEwDUpwpXWPaePemSc8tUP2rrckAXW6A7ycBG9ZKEPwOwssCDXynRYooP26izHT231o2e94oJeS8f0yPzD884l7ZghuNqIDjKIBZAlK-YArP


WT to CST Silicone Oil Conversion Chart for reference:
10wt = 100cst
15wt = 150cst
20wt = 200cst
25wt = 275cst
30wt = 350cst
35wt = 425cst
40wt = 500cst
45wt = 575cst
50wt = 650cst
55wt = 725cst
60wt = 800cst
70wt = 900cst
80wt = 1000cst
 
I got 3x13mm pins off some random seller from eBay, something like this here is what you want:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338293002&icep_item=182645396463

I would also consider investing in a temp gun too, more info here:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/sho...eed-to-run-for-upgraded-electronics-in-my-car

Wow, that’s a pretty neat trick to keep your costs down (pins wise)! At that price, I just ordered the pins. Will order the tool when i need it.

I already have a temp gun and it doesn’t leave my RC bag. :)

Thanks for the great support @Billl DeLong !
 

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