Mt410 center diff upgrade

[Traxxas2Tekno]

I just built a mt410 and im looking to order the parts to upgrade the center diff. Is the aluminum split mount worth it? How about the m2c aluminum housing? I bash on 6s and wanna make it as tough as possible.

 

[Slevin]

I would suggest the m2c aluminum center diff. I have melted the plastic one in my et. M2c offers several upgrades to make it as tough as possible. The latest being the new game changer chassis that are wider and significantly reduce flex. Couple that with the center braces and you are golden. Overkill has posted a mod to use the Arrma 5mm CVDs as well. I bought the mod off him and can attest to their durability.

As far as the aluminum mounts, I’m not sure and wonder if it is worth the upgrade cost. It is around $45 and that seems steep for that little of a part. I wonder if Mitchell from m2c would fashion one?

 

[jason.g]

I have the aluminum split mount. Definitely did not "need it" per say - but I am only running 4S. I think overall it is pretty good. Initially, I ran into a little challenge with what seemed to be some extra unwanted side to side play in the center diff. Now, I was also adding in the M2C aluminum center diff at the same time (never a good idea to change two things at once, which is what I did !). Long story short, I found that if I just assembled the split center diff housing per the steps in the instructions, tightening screws per the manual's steps, then things snugged up and aligned properly with no extra unwanted side to side play in the split diff housing. originally I thought it was a bad mold or something on the upgraded aluminum diff housing - but in the end, just put it all together nice and slow and methodical.

 

[Supradude26]

I run the aluminum split center diff in all 3 of my Tekno's, as well as the M2C Aluminum diffs, front center and rear. I did it mostly to be able to run 2.5 times the amount of fluid more than because I thought the original would fail for some reason. The center diff cup also has a heat sink built in to help keep temps down. I also run the rear aluminum chassis braces on all 3 rigs, but you need to run a longer screw on the rear housing end of it as the stock one is too short and I stripped it out a couple times before I went to screws that are 6 or so mm longer. Never had an issue since. If you ever run the longer ET chassis I would recommend the M2C center diff to rear bulkhead brace also as that really beefs it up. On my ET I have that, the M2C rear chassis brace, (long), the M2C rear shock tower brace and their one piece brace that replaces both the front and center stock braces. That will fit any of the 1/8th scale rigs as well as the SCT. Combining all of them makes the chassis super rigid, great for bashing but noticeably stiffer for rough track racing. I got back to the stock plastic braces and remove the top center to rear bulkhead brace when I race. One other nice thing about the big rear brace that goes on top is that it comes with an aluminum plate which mounts on top and just behind the center diff giving you an option to mount your ESC there

as the stock location can be tight or too small for some ESC's.

 

[Bennie98]

Is the center diff change just plug and play?
Because my center diff hasn't stopped leaking since I put it together. Even after getting it apart and redoing it.

I know if you do the rear and front diffs there are some things that need replacing, or is that just when you replace the diff casings as well?