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Motor Overheating

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Mattcity

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Hi All,

I have the Hobbywing MAX8 Plus/Supras Taurus Rocket 1950Kv 4274 combo in my EB48 2.0.
For the past 2 race meeting I suspect I have overheated in the finals. Motor stops but steering still functions. Not a battery issue as plenty of charge in them. not an issue in 6 min heats, only after 8-9mins running.
How can I diagnose and how can I overcome.
Racing in the UK so it was warm these last two weeks (20C maybe) but not excessive.

cheers

Matt
 
Are you sure it's the motor and not the esc? A 74mm long motor should have plenty of power. And 20C is not warm enough to cause any issues. Check your esc and see if you have any settings for motor and esc Temps, they may be set too low.

You could also be hitting low voltage cutoff. HW escs have a sensitive LVC and if you're only racing for 10 minutes you can probably safely disable it. Just make sure you know that your batteries are good enough.

Also what pinion are you running?
 
I am interested to see where this goes. I had the same problem in my Truggy. I have raced it for over 2 years and all of a sudden it started overheating as well. I went through the entire drive train and changed bearings and rebuilt diffs. I went both up and down in pinions and it helped a little but I still had motor temps about 230 F. I have changed motors two different times and I have changed speed controls as well. I had to have missed something because it never did get corrected. Just out of curiosity do you use a Futaba transmitter and if so do you use the 70/30 throttle configuration? I am not saying that is it but that is what I am doing and I wonder if it could somehow contribute to the issue. Yes, I am digging into minute details at this point.
 
I'm also interested where this goes. I am also having heating issues with the new to me 48 2.0. Two Tekin gen 3 esc down in two weekends. 2050 tekin to a 16t pinion. I have also checked the drivetrain for binding. Installing a hobbywing tonight.
 
Managed to get some great help from one of the UK team drivers.
See the attached screen shot.
Might help.
IMG_0101.jpeg
 
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I am interested to see where this goes. I had the same problem in my Truggy. I have raced it for over 2 years and all of a sudden it started overheating as well. I went through the entire drive train and changed bearings and rebuilt diffs. I went both up and down in pinions and it helped a little but I still had motor temps about 230 F. I have changed motors two different times and I have changed speed controls as well. I had to have missed something because it never did get corrected. Just out of curiosity do you use a Futaba transmitter and if so do you use the 70/30 throttle configuration? I am not saying that is it but that is what I am doing and I wonder if it could somehow contribute to the issue. Yes, I am digging into minute details at this point.
Sorry using the Flysky NB4.
 
Are you sure it's the motor and not the esc? A 74mm long motor should have plenty of power. And 20C is not warm enough to cause any issues. Check your esc and see if you have any settings for motor and esc Temps, they may be set too low.

You could also be hitting low voltage cutoff. HW escs have a sensitive LVC and if you're only racing for 10 minutes you can probably safely disable it. Just make sure you know that your batteries are good enough.

Also what pinion are you running?
Don't think its the ESC, ran several XR8 plus with HW Motors, in a couple of JQs, with same settings, no issues. Only seen this with the HW/Taurus combo so might be the Taurus just runs hotter as per the advice I got.
 
I'm also interested where this goes. I am also having heating issues with the new to me 48 2.0. Two Tekin gen 3 esc down in two weekends. 2050 tekin to a 16t pinion. I have also checked the drivetrain for binding. Installing a hobbywing tonight.
Are you running in sensored or sensorless mode?
 
I'm running the Surprass Taurus Rocket 1950Kv with a 15t pinion on 4s in sensored mode with a HW MAX8 SCT and getting some finger burning heat in my ET48 2.0. I was quite worried, but this post seems to say that the Taurus tends to run hot. I don't have a heat gun, but you can't touch the motor after a 15 / 20 minute run.

The ESC has the temp cut off enabled in the out of the box setting and doesn't cut off so I assume I OK and not damaging anything here.
 
A temp gun costs under $20. a very useful tool to protect a motor or esc that costs a lot more.
also if you don't have a fan on the motor - get one, they are also cheap and can bring down the temperatures considerably. same with ESC.
also i'd look here to figure out gearing: https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
for 4s i'd start gearing around 50-60mph personally and see how that goes with temps.
 
A temp gun costs under $20. a very useful tool to protect a motor or esc that costs a lot more.
also if you don't have a fan on the motor - get one, they are also cheap and can bring down the temperatures considerably. same with ESC.
also i'd look here to figure out gearing: https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
for 4s i'd start gearing around 50-60mph personally and see how that goes with temps.
Thanks, any recommendations for fans?
 
A temp gun costs under $20. a very useful tool to protect a motor or esc that costs a lot more.
also if you don't have a fan on the motor - get one, they are also cheap and can bring down the temperatures considerably. same with ESC.
also i'd look here to figure out gearing: https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html
for 4s i'd start gearing around 50-60mph personally and see how that goes with temps.
I agree, OP needs a temp gun to get some numerical readings as to the motor temperature. However regarding gearing, trying to achieve 50-60mph on 4S results in sky high gearing which will guarantee overheating and bearing in mind that OP is using his car for racing, where speeds typically don't need to be any higher than 40mph as most tracks simply aren't large enough to utilise a higher top speed.
 
Motors that overheat tend to have bearings that are shot. I would change them immediately. Motor bearings are the fastest rotating bearings in the truck and should be replaced regularly.

Also motors rarely have a temp sensor, so they will likely not trigger any cut off function.
 
Managed to get some great help from one of the UK team drivers.
See the attached screen shot.
Might help. View attachment 6589
Appreciate this was a while back.

I'm UK based. I just got a 40mm fan and mount. My HW1900 with 17t was hitting 95c.

Turning off the protection is an answer, but I pay for my gear, and there is a enough out there to suggest the stator and rotor ain't gonna like 100c+ temps for long periods before it either demagnetize or cracks..or both.

With a fan it now doesn't go above 65 ish!

Team drivers probably do whole replacements every year, maybe twice in a year so it might be less of a bother for them.

Not suggesting they have given you the wrong advice at all, it's just not something I'm happy to test. Lol
 
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