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What spare parts should I have on hand?

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Regarding the split center diff for quick access. What's the fastest way to access the center diff with this? I think i've been doing this the hard way. But I think this makes sense looking at it now.

1.) Remove 4 screws from top diff plate.
2.) Remove 2 screws from lower level of diff mounts
3.) Diff doesn't yet slide out because driveshafts are still in right? So remove rear end from chassis by removing 4 rear screws from the bottom of chassis and 2 rear screws from rear chassis mount.
4.) Center diff should now slide out, right?

Is there a faster way than this?

TKR5261_4s.jpg


Screen Shot 2019-12-20 at 5.54.35 PM.png
 
You only need to remove 4 screws total to get to the center diff

1) Remove 2 screws on the top plate passenger side
2) Remove 2 screws on bottom plate
3) Remove top plate leaving 2 screws that faster the top plate to brackets alone
4) pull out diff along with both center drive shafts
 
1.) Remove 4 screws from top diff plate. You only need to remove 2 of the top screws.
Screen Shot 2019-12-20 at 3.17.34 PM.png
2.) Remove 2 screws from lower level of diff mounts-this is correct
3.) Diff doesn't yet slide out because driveshafts are still in right? So remove rear end from chassis by removing 4 rear screws from the bottom of chassis and 2 rear screws from rear chassis mount. Totally unnecessary to remove the rear end.
4.) Center diff should now slide out, right? Yes
 
Awesome thanks guys! I'll try that again...
 
driveshafts, pins, and cups....

Your info has been extremely helpful to me. Thanks again!

How would you rate these pins as far as wear and needing replaced? They seem to be developing flat spots. I'm just not sure where to draw the line on replacing vs not replacing.

Pins:

Drive cups:
 
Oh snap, also add the center driveshaft to the list!

There is a trick where you can get more chassis flex and get more rear traction if you remove the rear chassis brace, but you better be a clean driver because if you nose dive any landings then you will bend that center drive shaft, and on rare occasion I have seen a couple guys shear the rear gear box from the chassis with a botched landing... many choose to take the risk of decreased durability simply because their lap times prove it's worth the risk for added performance gain without that rear brace.

Hi @Billl DeLong

I did not see any CVD replacement in your list, is it because you manage to fix them back? (e.g. straighten them back if bent)

My understanding is that bent shafts can create abnormal wear at the outdrive, but I have a hard time evaluating what is an acceptable degree of "non-straightness" for the axles.

Would love to have your opinion on this.

Thanks,
 

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