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48.3 Looking the Perfect Irish Rig????

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Some_Article

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Hello everyone,

Sorry if topic is misleading!!! I just wanted to let fellow members know I'm from Ireland where the build will take place!!!!!! I'm excited & nervous. Lol........

I'VE Decided after much thought and research to go for the ET48.3!!!!

A normal day of use with the rig will be the following ;;

90% grass ( I love speed runs including large oval style driving, powerdrifting etc.

I don't intend to bash the hell out of it but do enjoy some jumping and light bashing..

I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on the spec I'm thinking of below. If you would also mind considering an ideal day which I tried to briefly explain above.

I'm going to wait on some feedback & advice before going further..

Thank you in advance for taking the time to help.

Tekno RC ET48.3 £499

Hobbywing Max 8 ESC

Hobbywing 1900kv motor

SRT BH9032 servo

Sanwa MT-S Radio and receiver


TKR5253B Alloy servo horn
TKR4176 16t pinion

Tyres- Schumacher Yellow compound Spirals

Tyre inserts 6 Mik a pair x 2
 
OK, here's what I would recommend (bearing in mind I have an ET48.3 and also love to drive it in a similar way and similar environment)

For ESC the Hobbywing Max8 is a great choice so stick with that.

The Hobbywing 1900kv is a 4268 sensored motor I believe? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbyw...nsored-motor-g2-1900kv/rc-car-products/407515

The motor won't be great for this use as it is too small of a can size, it's best suited for a buggy and is mostly designed for 4S use primarily. For blasting around large areas you will definitely want to run 6S as it provides so much more speed and acceleration. For this reason I use a Hobbystar 4082 1600kv motor however these are only available to import from the US. You will struggle to find a larger can motor in the UK.

As an alternative Hobbywing make a 2200kv 4074 size motor, this motor is decent but it is not great as it can overheat on 6S if you run even moderate gearing. I ran this motor in my old Arrma Talion nd it always ran very hot on 6S, I could have geared down but chose not to because this would have made the car too slow on 4S!

If you can wait for delivery from the US I would suggest buying a Hobbystar 4082 1600kv if you plan to run 6S regularly as it does perfom very well and runs within safe temperatures when geared for 55-60mph on 6S and runs around 38mph on 4S with a 17 tooth pinion.
Please note: a similar motor is for sale here: https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/235906-rockit-8th-scale-motor/


The servo is an excellent choice, I personally was going to buy that SRT servobut chose a JX servo instead from bangood.com (china) as it was cheaper and offers similar performance.

Same goes for the Sanwa radio system, I use a Futaba 3PV which is has similar specs/features and it works perfectly.

Definitely get the aluminium servo horn as the stock plastic one is a known weak point, Tekno pinions are great quality as well.

As for tyres I would advise against Schumacher spirals as they will bite too hard into grass and potentially make it easy to rollover, they will also make it hard to kick the back end out and drift.
I would recommend a set of Pro-Line badlands 3.8 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-li...-offset-17mm-wheels-2-/rc-car-products/368112

These tyres are very goodf and offer the perfect level of grip on grass, they just about have enough slip to drift a bit but the car can still corner hard and accelrate and brake quickly. Also, they are premounted so you don't have the hassle of gluing tyres!
 
OK, here's what I would recommend (bearing in mind I have an ET48.3 and also love to drive it in a similar way and similar environment)

For ESC the Hobbywing Max8 is a great choice so stick with that.

The Hobbywing 1900kv is a 4268 sensored motor I believe? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbyw...nsored-motor-g2-1900kv/rc-car-products/407515

The motor won't be great for this use as it is too small of a can size, it's best suited for a buggy and is mostly designed for 4S use primarily. For blasting around large areas you will definitely want to run 6S as it provides so much more speed and acceleration. For this reason I use a Hobbystar 4082 1600kv motor however these are only available to import from the US. You will struggle to find a larger can motor in the UK.

As an alternative Hobbywing make a 2200kv 4074 size motor, this motor is decent but it is not great as it can overheat on 6S if you run even moderate gearing. I ran this motor in my old Arrma Talion nd it always ran very hot on 6S, I could have geared down but chose not to because this would have made the car too slow on 4S!

If you can wait for delivery from the US I would suggest buying a Hobbystar 4082 1600kv if you plan to run 6S regularly as it does perfom very well and runs within safe temperatures when geared for 55-60mph on 6S and runs around 38mph on 4S with a 17 tooth pinion.
Please note: a similar motor is for sale here: https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/235906-rockit-8th-scale-motor/


The servo is an excellent choice, I personally was going to buy that SRT servobut chose a JX servo instead from bangood.com (china) as it was cheaper and offers similar performance.

Same goes for the Sanwa radio system, I use a Futaba 3PV which is has similar specs/features and it works perfectly.

Definitely get the aluminium servo horn as the stock plastic one is a known weak point, Tekno pinions are great quality as well.

As for tyres I would advise against Schumacher spirals as they will bite too hard into grass and potentially make it easy to rollover, they will also make it hard to kick the back end out and drift.
I would recommend a set of Pro-Line badlands 3.8 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-li...-offset-17mm-wheels-2-/rc-car-products/368112

These tyres are very goodf and offer the perfect level of grip on grass, they just about have enough slip to drift a bit but the car can still corner hard and accelrate and brake quickly. Also, they are premounted so you don't have the hassle of gluing tyres!


Thank you so much for the detailed reply your knowledge is amazing! I will look into your suggestions and come back to you before hitting the buy button.

One other thing is the Tekno as good as everyone says particularly in terms of strength, reliability etc?

Thanks again
 
Regarding the power: i personally feel the ET48 does not need 6s to be fun and mess around with. I run it mostly in 4s and occasionally 5s. More than this is turning your RC in a bullet, which is not how I like to mess around with it.

I run a Tekin Truggy can with slightly taller tires (backflip LP) and 17t pinion. To make it safe in the grass, i added two Yeah Racing fans that work great.

Totally agree with @Klappars regarding the tires. You could probably consider the 4s version of the Backflips (LP) since they will less balloon than the Badlands. They will also be slightly taller.

You will need the TKR5071C +2mm wheel hubs to install most MT tires.

Finally, you should maybe consider some bracing of the chassis. That is if you want to jump your rig safely and not worry with the driveline. There is multiple options. I wouldn’t go all crazy and turn the chassis into a brick, but would still have a look at it.

Here are a few options listed in this post:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/questions-about-brace-upgrades.1140/

I would consider a light option like the mmm-racing stiffner.

Enjoy!
 
I agree on 4s logic.

Going back to what Klappers mentioned. Just so you can get a "basic" idea of the RPMs a motor produces based on voltage times KV, I did the math to compare Klappers 1600kv motor paired with a 6s lipos and a 1900kv motor with a 4s lipo.

6s = 22.2v (each cell in a lipo is 3.7v)
4s = 14.8v

To get the RPM of a motor (unloaded) you just take the KV rating and multiply it by the voltage you are using. So with the above examples;

4s with a 1900kv motor should produce something around 32,560 rpm at full throttle.
6s with a 1600kv motor should produce something around 35,520 rpm at full throttle.

As you can see it actually isn't that much different in this case (only 3,000 rpm, an 8% difference). As far as speed goes and the difference Klapper notices is probably more based on the 1600kv having slightly more torque.

With the way Klappers is running on 6s it is actually more efficient than 4s since he has the appropriate KV motor paired with it.

Now this is all based on my opinion that is based on the information I have gathered through time, on how pair a motor with a car to give it good balance of speed and controllability.
 
The 4074 can (2200kv) could be the right motor on 4s. I would not go smaller than that and I would add the fans in order to bash in grass or on 5s without worrying about temps.
 
Evening everyone,
Firstly it's fantastic to have so many absolutely fantastic and knowledgeable replies.

So this is where I'm currently at ;;

As mentioned just got back into RC little over 2 months ago. During that time I purchased a traxxas xmaxx 8s. A few reasons I purchased this particular truck was firstly the option of training mode & Traxxas driving aids. I felt that with these options plus we all thought the xmaxx looked great, it was a good buy for family fun plus I good give it a bit of dogs abuse when I was out on my own!!! Lol I have to say I love mostly everything about the truck.

Since getting back into the hobby again I'm amazed at how much things have moved on!! So I began watching YouTube videos joining forums etc .After a few weeks of research two names kept popping up when build quality, components used and performance. They were proline & tekno.


Sorry for the short novel above I just wanted to try and give you an idea where I'm at currently..


Some basically it boils down to these options, and I would love some opinions on what I should do next.?

Do I keep the xmaxx and upgrade it to make it stronger, faster and as good a basher that can be achieved.???


Or do I go for the 48.3 taking note of some of the advice on changing a few things which were posted on here ?.

Having done the figures I would estimate I'm looking at £1k plus, give or take a few pounds either way. So this is where everyone's input will prove invaluable.

How does this rig when setup correctly compare to the likes of the xmaxx or indeed the majority of rtr models? Could you possibly comment particularly on
Strength
Reliability
Driving Dynamics etc etc??

Based on any helpful replies addressing the above will allow me to make my mind up I promise!!! Lol
 
Hi @Some_Article

I believe your are right in your £1k calculation. But let me try to give you some perspective on :
1/ what you are getting for that price
2/ how does it compare with RTR

The traditional path of the enthusiastic hobbyist is to start with something like a Traxxas Slash or if he is a bit more lucky one of the 1/8th scale Arrma.

Your starting point is around more or less $500 and starts a long journey of breaking / fixing / upgrading. You’ll eventually drop $300 to $400 over a certain period of time to replace some of the bad electronics (servo is heading the list...) or reinforce the drive line (heck, MIP metal axles for the slash are $140!!!) or strengthen the chassis with all sorts of bumpers / braces...

You end up with $1k rig that still inherently still has the weaknesses of the original design. Chassis remains plastic, truck is too heavy, too much slope here or there... you could very much end up here, but the geeks / perfectionists / enthusiasts that we are, will pursue the quest to perfection one way or another and end up spending an insane amount of $$ on a platform that is not worth it.

By starting with a Tekno kit, you’ll directly go very close to perfection. You wont save $$, but you’ll have the satisfaction of having a rig that corresponds to what you want, with the best components of the market and that at the end will deliver upon the promise.

If you can live with an RTR, then go for it! You’ll still have to upgrade the servo ($100, less if you compromise on speed & strength) because they all fail and you’ll have to live with the bad radio they usually put in the box. But that is absolutely ok.

If you’re in the business of building the best (because you deserve it! And worked hard for it!) then that is when you start with a kit. Kits are not perfect, but they get closer to it.

My ET48.3 compared to an Arrma Kraton/Talion or an e-revo:
Lighter - other will never catch up
More balanced
More tuning options
Stronger (eventually the others will catch up)
More precise driving
Better radio - heck that’s $200 if you want the RTR to catch up on this one

Not trying to push one way or another here, just sharing my (totally biased) perspective. ?

PS: didn’t comment on the xmaxx because I’m completely and utterly insensible to it’s charm (high center of gravity, heavy, plastic all around, weak radio and electronics...)
 
I agree on 4s logic.

Going back to what Klappers mentioned. Just so you can get a "basic" idea of the RPMs a motor produces based on voltage times KV, I did the math to compare Klappers 1600kv motor paired with a 6s lipos and a 1900kv motor with a 4s lipo.

6s = 22.2v (each cell in a lipo is 3.7v)
4s = 14.8v

To get the RPM of a motor (unloaded) you just take the KV rating and multiply it by the voltage you are using. So with the above examples;

4s with a 1900kv motor should produce something around 32,560 rpm at full throttle.
6s with a 1600kv motor should produce something around 35,520 rpm at full throttle.

As you can see it actually isn't that much different in this case (only 3,000 rpm, an 8% difference). As far as speed goes and the difference Klapper notices is probably more based on the 1600kv having slightly more torque.

With the way Klappers is running on 6s it is actually more efficient than 4s since he has the appropriate KV motor paired with it.

Now this is all based on my opinion that is based on the information I have gathered through time, on how pair a motor with a car to give it good balance of speed and controllability.
From my experience with a hobbywing 2200kv originally fitted to the car the lower kv motor geared higher is definitely faster than a higher kv one geared lower and running on 4S, the RPM doesn't seem to make such a differnece as the lower kv spins slower but can be geared higher to compenstae; resultign in higher wheel speed.

With large open areas 4S tends to feel a bit slow at times so i'm sure some_article will want to run 6S after getting used to the car.
 
Of course gearing changes things. My comparison above was like for like as far as can size goes. These calculations are also for an unloaded motor, meaning not even hooked up to a car. When you put them in a car there will be multiple other variables that affect speed and torque.

In general a lower KV motor is slower and has higher torque. You can speed up a lower KV motor with like you just mentioned gearing and or as I mentioned voltage.
 

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