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Looking for Suggestions for Electronics for ET 48 2.0/2.1/2.2 build.

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quattheduck

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I'm trying to learn about RC cars and plan a build for a Et 48 2.x(whatever version comes out will probably be the one I get).

I am doing a long range FPV RC car.

I am trying to populate a build list, so that when I'm ready I'm ready to roll and can buy it all(as well as understand about how much it will cost).

A few things I will be looking for in the build.

1.) VERY good cooling. I want to be able to run this thing as long as possible without overheating.

2.) Good for both on road, and off road. I don't need to be amazing at either, but would like to be good at both.

3.) Be able to go high speeds on road without tires ballooning.

4.) Not worried about doing jumps/tricks/wheelies or anything.

5.) ESC/Motor powerful enough to deal with a large amount of added weight from cameras, receivers/antennae, extra fans/heatsinks, potentially belted tires, etc.

6.) Following from 5... an engine/ESC that can run without overheating. Not sure if this means "overbuilding" with a bigger engine/esc, and only running it at 75%(would like to hear people's thoughts on this).

7.) what about using multiple batteries, or even something like this 22,000 mAh 6S battery(or something like it, more than the standard you would see for RC cars)

https://rcbattery.com/liperior-2200...MIiZbaoozm_AIVBFNyCh1CfQz0EAsYASABEgIccvD_BwE

8.) Not sure if I want to go 6S or 8S. I think 6S would give me plenty of power. But I wonder if an 8S system might offer more capacity, as well being able to run at 75% which might allow it to run longer without overheating, versus running a 6S system at 100%?

Mainly, I'm just looking for some guidance, maybe some part recommendations, whatever people who are knowledgeable can offer. I'll leave the "FPV" part out of it really, as that probably isn't this forum's expertise. I'm moreso for now concerned about building the car itself, with the caveats(including added weight, need to run a long time/distance at fast speed without overheating or running out of battery).

Generally I am trying to build a decently fast RC car that has the battery life, cooling, engine power to drive for miles ideally without breaking down. I'm not sure how possible this is, but regardless of what the reality is, I want to try to push it as far as I can in that direction, within cost-effective reason. But if I'm already spending a lot for the FPV/long range, and body kit, I'm not afraid to venture a little into cost inefficiency to achieve longer/faster run times.
 
Believe it or not Phi Long is running 3S in his eTruggy where you can see an example of his truck winning a major race against many of the fastest drivers in the world:



He says that his temps are very low and can get close to 15 min run times on the 3S setup.

He's running an 18T pinion instead of 16T for 4S and then adds timing and boost in the ESC to get the top end speed to match 4S but because the low end is on 3S that makes it run more efficient on a 4274-2250KV motor


I've been running 4S and lucky to get 12 min on the same motor... I plan to try 3S when it's time to replace my battery in my eTruggy
 
Ya, for little runs like that for sure, but I'm more of doing miles long journeys, rather than short 50m dashes. And I'd like to be able to go longer than 15 min.
 
8s is overkill.
for an ET 48
 
Welcome and man you are all over the place with your wish list. Are you planning on using that battery in a drone? Anything less than 50c isn’t really suitable for what you’re looking for. If you’re new to the RC car world you are really jumping into the deep end with your wish list.

1. pinion size
2. Willing to change tires
3. Diff oil
4. ???
5. Large amount of added weight….get a bigger rig. Maybe 1/5 Kraton 8s
6. Lots of choices
7. That battery you mentioned looks like bad news. Of course you can use two batteries if you want. 2x3s equals one 6s
 
You can go with 6s and a low kv motor (engines use fuel) in order to get an efficient rig. But you could also create a build with 2 x 4s batteries in parallel. Essentially creating a 4S2P.

2 x 4s 5000mAh in series = 8s 5000mAh
2 x 4s 5000mAh in parallel = 4s 10,000mAh

This way you keep the reasonable 4s voltage but get lot longer runtimes. The advantage with sticking to 4s is their shape, you can easily make them fit the battery tray. Just need to find a way to stack them.

I would stay away from 8s, way too much power.
 
You can go with 6s and a low kv motor (engines use fuel) in order to get an efficient rig. But you could also create a build with 2 x 4s batteries in parallel. Essentially creating a 4S2P.

2 x 4s 5000mAh in series = 8s 5000mAh
2 x 4s 5000mAh in parallel = 4s 10,000mAh

This way you keep the reasonable 4s voltage but get lot longer runtimes. The advantage with sticking to 4s is their shape, you can easily make them fit the battery tray. Just need to find a way to stack them.

I would stay away from 8s, way too much power.
TY, my concern is that I will be adding quite a lot of weight to it.

1.) Heavy tires so no balloon.

2.) 2 LIPO batteries instead of 1 for longer capacity.

3.) Receiver. Big/heavy antannae.

4.) Camera(s) or Phone(s)

5.) Extra battery bank for cameras/phones.

6.) Extra cooling for ESC/Motor/Cameras/Phones/receiver

7.) Headlight

I'm just scared that with all that weight I might want to go 6s, or the engine will overheat. Is that flawed thinking?
 
It probably is not that much about the weight, but more about the expected performance level. Are you expecting to be able to send this truck in heavy bashing sessions?

With the FPV concept, i think we are all assuming that the truck is going to be a relatively tamed basher since there is no way to easily go and pick it up if it rolls over.

There is your choice:
  • Very light basher, optimized for long distance => 4s in parallel is likely a good choice
  • Hard basher, looking for power vs. runtime => 6s to be able to send it
 
Ya, for little runs like that for sure, but I'm more of doing miles long journeys, rather than short 50m dashes. And I'd like to be able to go longer than 15 min.

The speed shown on 3S above is around 45mph... you can double your run time by reducing the EPA on the throttle where 50% EPA roughly 23mph would typically net about a 30 min run time and subsequently 25% EPA with speeds around 13mph would last about an hour of run time.

These estimates are with a standard 5Ah pack, so if you can find a way to fit a larger capacity pack then you can extend your run time that way too.
 
Man, I take a multiple month hiatus from TF and get to come back to this 🍿

While I love the Et48 (it’s my favorite driving rc) it may not be the right chassis to start with. If I were trying to build a fpv rc I would start looking at assumed weights of components and packaging. I would get a rough estimate of weight you will be adding to a chassis and comparing it to vehicle weights. The et48 does so good because it is a light and nimble racer. You double its weight with a saddle pack of 4s batteries and fpv gear and you have lost its best attributes. Some questions I would have about your expectations

1. What do you consider adequate run time?
2. What speeds are you expecting to run at?
3. Have you driven a modern rc car? An Et48 with a 4s system will easily wheelie and going up to 6s/8s is only going to increase that tendency. There are things you can do to help mitigate that but it would be worth buying/building a car to start with and then going down the rabbit hole of adding a fpv or building something else entirely based upon your reaction to whatever rc is used to learn on.
4. Have you considered using a Losi 5t? Starting with something huge and converting it to electric gives you loads of room for heavy equipment and the chassis will have no idea you have added another pound or 2 of gear.
 
The MT410 with larger M2C chassis (more real estate) is likely to be a better starting point than the ET48 2.0.

More after market support, towers and body posts to adapt a wide range of truck bodies.
 

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