I took apart my shocks for my EB48.4 for a rebuild and found the shock caps are marginal. They screwed on the shock bodies tight enough but two of the bleeder screws had chewed up o-rings, two of the ball inserts were chewed (I presume because they were mounted without the flanged lock nuts) and the holes where the upper plastic ball joints go are a little chewed up. I think with new o-rings for the bleeder screws, TKR8730 - shock cap bushings, and the correct flanged 3mm locking nuts to secure them to the tower mounts should get me through my initial first season learning this car. How far can these go before they need to be replaced? At a little over $60 for four of these little things delivered it's a bit steep...
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Aluminum shock caps: when to replace
- Thread starter Chozwoz
- Start date
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- Messages
- 1,235
- Reaction score
- 1,011
- Location
- Austin, TX
- Tekno RC's
- EB410
- EB48
- ET48
- ET410
- MT410
- SCT410
- Driving Style
- Racer
If it ain't broke then don't fix it 
There's no hard set rule on how long the caps will last, not uncommon to have the anodized finish wear off, but generally the holes which slide over the shock mounts will tend to wallow out over time and the caps can slide over the M3 lock nut. That's a good indicator that it's time to replace a worn shock cap, in a pinch I have placed a washer behind the lock nut to get more life out of the caps before replacing them.
Also consider the 50% lifetime warranty deal:
https://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/
There's no hard set rule on how long the caps will last, not uncommon to have the anodized finish wear off, but generally the holes which slide over the shock mounts will tend to wallow out over time and the caps can slide over the M3 lock nut. That's a good indicator that it's time to replace a worn shock cap, in a pinch I have placed a washer behind the lock nut to get more life out of the caps before replacing them.
Also consider the 50% lifetime warranty deal:
https://www.teknorc.com/warranty-repair/
- Thread starter
- #3
Good call. This is a used chassis and I've completely taken the car apart and replaced all the bent and broken bits. I saved the shocks for last cuz I've heard they are the most important part system on an off road car. Gonna take my chances and run 'em. Not like I'm a championship driver or anything like that. The shafts are clean although one is gold like the titanium coated ones. Boots are shot but that's expected. The bodies are unscarred on the inside and the stock 4 hole pistons are smooth on their edges. Spring collars were a bit tight to get back on. Lemme show some pics...
- Thread starter
- #4
These bushings might be my answer, anybody have xp with these?
- Messages
- 1,235
- Reaction score
- 1,011
- Location
- Austin, TX
- Tekno RC's
- EB410
- EB48
- ET48
- ET410
- MT410
- SCT410
- Driving Style
- Racer
Those plastic shock bushings are consumables and need to be replaced often.
I am more concerned with the caps in the first pic which appear to be binding on the shock tower, that will really jack your handling and is a sign of worn shock bushings, make that your top priority.
The .4 is two major revisions behind, once you start hitting 95% consistency or better on a regular basis, then I would consider investing in a current generation kit if you want to get faster.
*** SIDENOTE
My OCD is hurting with the mix matched TiNi treated shock shaft, it will glide smoother and you won't get as consistent cornering if you ran matched shock shafts from side to side, front to rear is okay to mix-match, I wouldn't mix-match the left/right shafts personally.
I am more concerned with the caps in the first pic which appear to be binding on the shock tower, that will really jack your handling and is a sign of worn shock bushings, make that your top priority.
The .4 is two major revisions behind, once you start hitting 95% consistency or better on a regular basis, then I would consider investing in a current generation kit if you want to get faster.
*** SIDENOTE
My OCD is hurting with the mix matched TiNi treated shock shaft, it will glide smoother and you won't get as consistent cornering if you ran matched shock shafts from side to side, front to rear is okay to mix-match, I wouldn't mix-match the left/right shafts personally.
- Thread starter
- #6
As for the shock shafts, if you read my initial post you would know that's the way it came, I'm dealing with someone else's Frankenstein. The kit plastic ball points or bushings as you call them were certainly worn and then the lock nuts just started to wear into the shock cap. Kinda like he didn't realize to use a small washer and just kept tightening them up. The kit one's and these Tekno upgraded ones are both plastic. TKR8730 has more material on both ends to help prevent gouging like what happened to mine. Going to try them and I'll you know how long the last. I'm aware the EB48.4 is getting long on the tooth but I'm just starting out in off road so I'm pretty sure it will be a while before the car is holding me back.
