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No power to rear Wheels?

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Dudlee

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Location
Sonoma County
Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
I have a few test runs on my new eb410.2 and not getting much power to rear wheels. Running 15,30,10 fluids per manual.
Mashing the throttle in dirt , I can see the front wheels digging in but nothing from the rear wheels. Holding the car in the air and throtle up, the rear wheels spin OK. Is this by design or do I need thicker fluid in the rear diff? The local track is mostly carpet.
Mikey
 

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If you're not getting anything from the rear under load I would look back at the assembly in a couple areas. Did you have any issues with the rear diff going together and did it feel normal turning the outdrives by hand? I would also check the rear input diff coupler to make sure the set screw is still tight and on the flat of the input pinion. The wheel hexes would be something else to check. Make sure the pins are in place and fully engaged in the hexes on both sides. If one side is off that's the side power will be delivered to
 
thanx nub. The set screw was loose Again.. It came out on my 1st test run and
I had loctited and tightened it good. I'll keep a check on that one.
My bottle of Red Loctite is 30 years old. Maybe its not so Locky Titey any more :)
 
It might be worth getting some fresh locky titey. I don't know about what they made years ago but the current stuff has a year or two shelf life. Most will have an end of use date like what I currently have is 8/22.

Something else to consider is cleaning the fasteners before assembly. Not all thread lock will be good with dirty fasteners. There can be a decent amount of oil and debris on new screws. I use a dab of denatured alcohol on a paper towel and with my driver rotate the screw counterclockwise pinching the threads with my wetted paper towel.

I've been using Loctite 248 lately which is a stick instead of liquid. I'm at the end of my first stick which I think took about two years to get to. I won't use liquid again unless I have to. Less waste and easier to use in my opinion.

Maybe one last point is thread lock needs to cure and the amount of time will vary with manufacture and type. Typical cure time is 24 hours but check what your manufacture recommends as some can be less and some can be more.
 
To send more power to the rear wheels, you need thicker fluid in the center diff.

The truck will transfer weight to the rear at acceleration. Because of the extra weight on the rear, those tires will have great traction. The front will be the other way around. It will lose weight and traction, making the front tires dig into the dirt and absorb all the extra power that can’t be sent to the ground.
 
To send more power to the rear wheels, you need thicker fluid in the center diff.
Thanks for the info. I'll experiment with the center diff fluid.
The Loctite stick is a good idea.
My 30 year old loctite still Tastes good though..
 
“My 30 year old loctite still Tastes good though..”

I hope it does not Lockey Tighty you!!
 

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