I just took my MT410 out for its first bash and now it’s stuttering hard when I initially give it some throttle. Like gears are slipping somewhere. I don’t think the issue is the pinion/spur(steel) gear, but I don’t want to tear into the differentials unless I know for sure which one it is. Is there an easy way to test the diffs and see if one is causing an issue?
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How to figure out which diff is causing issues
- Thread starter Jpipe
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MAVERICK
Well-known member
You can back off the motor so it’s not in the spur gear then roll the truck forward and back with your hands on the diffs and try to feel any grinding or popping in the gear boxes
Hector_Fisher
Well-known member
Disconnecting driveshafts to isolate a specific diff is usually the best way for me, then roll that "free" axle on the ground by itself and listen for noise.
You can also drive it around on power with one axle disconnected since some issues are only audible under power. Take out the center rear driveshaft (to make it FWD) will let you determine whether it's the front. Take out the center front driveshaft (to make it RWD) will let you determine if it's the rear. If you hear the issue both times, it's not likely that you have two diffs that are bad so it's most likely an issue with the center diff.
Also, you should pick the truck up and spin on wheel by hand, validating the other tire on the same axle spins the opposite way and that their are no strange noises.
That's usually how i determine if the diffs are giving me issues.
You can also drive it around on power with one axle disconnected since some issues are only audible under power. Take out the center rear driveshaft (to make it FWD) will let you determine whether it's the front. Take out the center front driveshaft (to make it RWD) will let you determine if it's the rear. If you hear the issue both times, it's not likely that you have two diffs that are bad so it's most likely an issue with the center diff.
Also, you should pick the truck up and spin on wheel by hand, validating the other tire on the same axle spins the opposite way and that their are no strange noises.
That's usually how i determine if the diffs are giving me issues.
- Thread starter
- #5
Maybe it’s a sensor issue, like Spive said? The diffs sound fine, actually.
It is not drive-able at all. I have about an hour of drive time on it and this hasn’t happened before. This is with a freshly charged 4S 50C 4500mAh battery and happens with both my batteries. Any idea why this would have just started happening? I’m running the Castle Creations Monster X 1/8 w/1515 Sensored Motor (2200Kv). But I don’t have it running sensored right now because I don’t have the extra required harness. Should I order the harness to run it sensored? Seems like a motor issue since this wasn’t happening before.
It is not drive-able at all. I have about an hour of drive time on it and this hasn’t happened before. This is with a freshly charged 4S 50C 4500mAh battery and happens with both my batteries. Any idea why this would have just started happening? I’m running the Castle Creations Monster X 1/8 w/1515 Sensored Motor (2200Kv). But I don’t have it running sensored right now because I don’t have the extra required harness. Should I order the harness to run it sensored? Seems like a motor issue since this wasn’t happening before.
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That's 100% a cogging issue. Reset all your endpoints on your radio to 100% and then recalibrate your esc. Also check the settings on your esc, you'll want start power on low or lowest and motor timing on 0.
Also, what pinion are you running? A lower FDR (higher top speed) will increase the chances of cogging when running sensorless.
Castle's sensorless startup software is by far the best out there. I use it on one of my vehicles and it will start as smoothly as my sensored esc/motor equipped vehicles. I think once you go over your radio and esc settings you'll get it sorted out.
Also, what pinion are you running? A lower FDR (higher top speed) will increase the chances of cogging when running sensorless.
Castle's sensorless startup software is by far the best out there. I use it on one of my vehicles and it will start as smoothly as my sensored esc/motor equipped vehicles. I think once you go over your radio and esc settings you'll get it sorted out.
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