My sons and I call the unbreakable body the "trash can body" because of its thick non-refind black plastic look.
I applaud you for wanting to bash in style! lol
-
Welcome to Tekno RC Forums! Are you a Tekno RC fan? If so you're in luck as you've have arrived to the biggest and best Tekno RC community.
Come join our community and ask your questions, show off your Tekno RCs and share your experience!
DallasRob's Proline Baja aka Angry Herbie
- Thread starter DallasRob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My sons and I call the unbreakable body the "trash can body" because of its thick non-refind black plastic look.
I applaud you for wanting to bash in style! lol
DallasRob
Member
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 9
- Tekno RC's
- MT410
- Driving Style
- Basher
- Thread starter
- #22
Happy New Year!
After I fixed the huge tears with ShoeGooCF and another 30 jumps off the ramp another crack appeared. No failures in the parts already ShoeGoo'd.
Which meant more ShoeGooCF
I think for the next body I'm going to just cover the whole thing like I used to do with the drywall tape.
Since I had the poorly formed Kydex strips leftover, I trimmed them down and added them to the top
This should add some abrasion resistance, gives the underside ones a good screw point that won't pull through the body and if I extend them to the body mounts will provide even more flex resistance. If I can find Kydex in white, it shouldn't look too bad with the Herbie paint.
After I fixed the huge tears with ShoeGooCF and another 30 jumps off the ramp another crack appeared. No failures in the parts already ShoeGoo'd.
Which meant more ShoeGooCF
I think for the next body I'm going to just cover the whole thing like I used to do with the drywall tape.
Since I had the poorly formed Kydex strips leftover, I trimmed them down and added them to the top
This should add some abrasion resistance, gives the underside ones a good screw point that won't pull through the body and if I extend them to the body mounts will provide even more flex resistance. If I can find Kydex in white, it shouldn't look too bad with the Herbie paint.
DallasRob
Member
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 9
- Tekno RC's
- MT410
- Driving Style
- Basher
- Thread starter
- #23
Now for the bad news. I bent the center driveshaft and damaged the battery case
The damage at the top is from the M2C mount and the one at the bottom from the center diff outdrive. That chassis must have *really* flexed. I checked it and it's still straight but I have to wonder for how long.
I also lost a front inner wheel bearing
I don't know if that's related, though. Amazon had some rated ABEC 3 in a 10 pack so I'm trying those.
The damage at the top is from the M2C mount and the one at the bottom from the center diff outdrive. That chassis must have *really* flexed. I checked it and it's still straight but I have to wonder for how long.
I also lost a front inner wheel bearing
I don't know if that's related, though. Amazon had some rated ABEC 3 in a 10 pack so I'm trying those.
DallasRob
Member
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 9
- Tekno RC's
- MT410
- Driving Style
- Basher
- Thread starter
- #24
I haven't talked about body mounts yet.
The stock ones are far too short for this reinforced body. Proline discontinued the Tekno sized extended mounts so I'm using the extended mounts for a Slash that I've modified a bit. There's only a 1mm difference between the two. To trim them down I'm just touching each side to the side of my bench grinder wheel. It only takes a minute.
I bought some 14mm long M4 set screws to make the mounting screw longer. When I didn't have the longer set screws I put in a regular screw, cut it to length with a dremel cutoff wheel then fixed the threads by rounding them off on the grinder. That works well and can give you any length you want. The one on the right below is like that.
I thought about drilling out the stock mounts but there's not much meat there and I'm doubtful that they'd last with this type of punishment.
Then there's the plastic mount that attaches to the shock tower. That was failing too. My solution was to add some .125 Kydex scraps that I had laying around to the front side to prevent it from going forward.
The one of the left was the original size but it bent on the right
So I made it much wider. Even it's still bending a bit. It would be better if I could make them "U" shaped and attached to both sides but there's no room to attach on the back side without moving the top of the shock and I didn't want to do that. Anybody else having trouble with those?
The stock ones are far too short for this reinforced body. Proline discontinued the Tekno sized extended mounts so I'm using the extended mounts for a Slash that I've modified a bit. There's only a 1mm difference between the two. To trim them down I'm just touching each side to the side of my bench grinder wheel. It only takes a minute.
I bought some 14mm long M4 set screws to make the mounting screw longer. When I didn't have the longer set screws I put in a regular screw, cut it to length with a dremel cutoff wheel then fixed the threads by rounding them off on the grinder. That works well and can give you any length you want. The one on the right below is like that.
I thought about drilling out the stock mounts but there's not much meat there and I'm doubtful that they'd last with this type of punishment.
Then there's the plastic mount that attaches to the shock tower. That was failing too. My solution was to add some .125 Kydex scraps that I had laying around to the front side to prevent it from going forward.
The one of the left was the original size but it bent on the right
So I made it much wider. Even it's still bending a bit. It would be better if I could make them "U" shaped and attached to both sides but there's no room to attach on the back side without moving the top of the shock and I didn't want to do that. Anybody else having trouble with those?
Attachments
DallasRob
Member
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 9
- Tekno RC's
- MT410
- Driving Style
- Basher
- Thread starter
- #25
It's been awhile since I updated.
I acquired some .125 white Kydex T so I was able to finish the Herbie body.
Well, it's strong but definitely not going to win any beauty contests.
I went with ShoeGooCF on the entire body. Not sure how well it's going to hold since I'm gluing it to the paint instead of the body.
Ran the Kydex from mount to mount and covered the back for abrasion protection. The strips on top help with that too. I've changed the screws and countersunk them since this picture.
And finally, all stickered up
One of the problems with the Herbie that I had on the Slash was that all the color would rub off the stripes and hood sticker. To stop that I tried to glue those stickers inside the body before I painted. I got some of that xxmain picture glue but it didn't work out so well. The glue looks like diluted Elmers and did not want to stick to the glossy stickers. Probably works well on non-glossy prints. The 53 on the hood looks particularly bad. Oh well, next time. With a whole tube of ShoeGoo and that Kydex it weighs 15oz so it's no lightweight. I added the M2C widebody kit because of the driveshaft mishap so it's really heavy now. By sanding down the end of the motor mount a bit I was able to get a 14T pinion in it so I'm hoping that will help with the extra weight. The body barely covers the chassis now.
I only got to launch it about 10 times off the ramp (with a couple big roof landings) before the heatsink flew off my Monster X. Castle's customer service was awesome and I should be getting it back tomorrow. No marks on the body. If it wasn't reinforced, it would have already been cracked. There is a tiny spot where the paint pulled away so that's worrisome.
The probodyrc guy messaged me with a 20% off sale so I have one of those coming. I'll get to see in person what they look like in a month.
Rob
I acquired some .125 white Kydex T so I was able to finish the Herbie body.
Well, it's strong but definitely not going to win any beauty contests.
I went with ShoeGooCF on the entire body. Not sure how well it's going to hold since I'm gluing it to the paint instead of the body.
Ran the Kydex from mount to mount and covered the back for abrasion protection. The strips on top help with that too. I've changed the screws and countersunk them since this picture.
And finally, all stickered up
One of the problems with the Herbie that I had on the Slash was that all the color would rub off the stripes and hood sticker. To stop that I tried to glue those stickers inside the body before I painted. I got some of that xxmain picture glue but it didn't work out so well. The glue looks like diluted Elmers and did not want to stick to the glossy stickers. Probably works well on non-glossy prints. The 53 on the hood looks particularly bad. Oh well, next time. With a whole tube of ShoeGoo and that Kydex it weighs 15oz so it's no lightweight. I added the M2C widebody kit because of the driveshaft mishap so it's really heavy now. By sanding down the end of the motor mount a bit I was able to get a 14T pinion in it so I'm hoping that will help with the extra weight. The body barely covers the chassis now.
I only got to launch it about 10 times off the ramp (with a couple big roof landings) before the heatsink flew off my Monster X. Castle's customer service was awesome and I should be getting it back tomorrow. No marks on the body. If it wasn't reinforced, it would have already been cracked. There is a tiny spot where the paint pulled away so that's worrisome.
The probodyrc guy messaged me with a 20% off sale so I have one of those coming. I'll get to see in person what they look like in a month.
Rob
