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Mt410 castle 1717 update: she’s a fiddlesticking RIPPER

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Hey guys, I have an et48.3 with an m2c extended wide body truggy chassis and I put a 1520 combo in it based on the good things I saw yall say about it. Just like you guys, I didn’t want to deal with heat issues and plan to run primarily 4s batteries. I currently have a 20t pinion on it and backflip lp tires. I was curious what the biggest size pinion yall would recommend running on it without having to worry about heat. I already have a dual fan heatsink installed as well.
Good looking rig brother, I personally found that with the backflip lp and on 4s I was able to comfortably run a 24t pinion (I don’t mind runner my rigs a little on the warmer side; closer to 190ish). Can’t fit anything larger than 24t unless you drill out the motor mount, I say with a 23t you’ll be able to get down and nasty with the best of em without having to worry. 🍻🍻
 
Hey guys, I have an et48.3 with an m2c extended wide body truggy chassis and I put a 1520 combo in it based on the good things I saw yall say about it. Just like you guys, I didn’t want to deal with heat issues and plan to run primarily 4s batteries. I currently have a 20t pinion on it and backflip lp tires. I was curious what the biggest size pinion yall would recommend running on it without having to worry about heat. I already have a dual fan heatsink installed as well.
I would also recommend ditching the stock sensor harness and run a direct plug sensor wire, the stock mmx sensor harness literally breaks if you stare at it the wrong way 😂 you can get em cheap on Amazon and clean up the wires a bit.
 
Good looking rig brother, I personally found that with the backflip lp and on 4s I was able to comfortably run a 24t pinion (I don’t mind runner my rigs a little on the warmer side; closer to 190ish). Can’t fit anything larger than 24t unless you drill out the motor mount, I say with a 23t you’ll be able to get down and nasty with the best of em without having to worry. 🍻🍻
Awesome, thank you for the input. Ill order a 23t along with a direct plug sensor wire. And good to know about the stock sensor harness, ill make sure to not give it any dirty looks:ROFLMAO: I'm going to order a couple of new 4s batteries as well, do you have any preferences on what to get? I think im going to change the esc battery connector from the deans to something more durable too. And BTW your YouTube video where you were running a 27t was sick!
 
Awesome, thank you for the input. Ill order a 23t along with a direct plug sensor wire. And good to know about the stock sensor harness, ill make sure to not give it any dirty looks:ROFLMAO: I'm going to order a couple of new 4s batteries as well, do you have any preferences on what to get? I think im going to change the esc battery connector from the deans to something more durable too. And BTW your YouTube video where you were running a 27t was sick!
Thanks man!! I’m finishing up a TLR xt build with an lrp zr.32, I’ll probably post a couple more vids here soon! I’ve been running the zeee 7200mah 4s lipos for a couple years now and they’re amazing!
 
So I got my 1520 installed, put the esc on top of the center diff and am so freakin happy ! ! ! Couldn't run a whole pack with out the familiar dot, dash, dot sound from the esc indicating motor overheating. I just ran an entire pack till low battery. I was in a large empty field ran it hard the entire pack. btw got a 25t pinion. Max temperature was 150. It was 85 outside today in Los Angeles. So dam happy I just ordered another 4s pack lol. with the white hard body and this new motor/esc am done with the mt410. Now I need build something to put the 1515 motor into . . . ? ? ?
 

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Well, I got the castle 1520 1650kv installed and relocated the new esc. I'll just say am very very happy. No real effect on center of gravity and NEVER overheats no matter what temperature it is outside, more power than needed. LOV IT ! should done this in the first place!
 
I personally prefer the 1520 solely because it’s lighter and seems to have a little more top end pull vs the 1717. The 1520 could be run all day without a fan and wouldn’t even break 110, granted you’re only running 4s.
What size pinon and tires are you running in this set up with the 1520 without overheating? I am building my MT410 with the same electronics. Will trenchers 2.8 be sufficient?
 
Sorry to bring an old thread back to life! I just wanted to say I went for the 1520 based on this thread, love it!

Out of curiosity though, what oils are you guys running in the diffs with this motor?
 
Sorry to bring an old thread back to life! I just wanted to say I went for the 1520 based on this thread, love it!

Out of curiosity though, what oils are you guys running in the diffs with this motor?
I’m running 500k center, 30k front and rear man. Perfect combo for the bashing I get down with
 
Sorry to bring an old thread back to life! I just wanted to say I went for the 1520 based on this thread, love it!

Out of curiosity though, what oils are you guys running in the diffs with this motor?
500k center 100k front and rear works for me but I’m no pro
 
I’m running 500k center, 30k front and rear man. Perfect combo for the bashing I get down with

I have the same setup as yours but with 100k 300k 50k (f,c,r) and when I do jumps, it just wants to do an immediate backflip, even if I ease off the throttle prior to taking off. Wondering if it has to do with the viscosity of the oils? I want it to take off jumps but not flip unless I hold on to the throttle.

Am converting it to an MT48.3 and am trying to decide what viscosity to use...
 
Can the 1520 motor be used with the Castle Mamba Monster part # CSE010-0145-00. Got a heavy MT410, just using 4S for now, says that ESC is good for 6s. See most of you are using the Castle Monster 8S ESC part # CSE010-0165-00. And what pinions are the go to for a heavy MT410 using 4S battery and the backflip 4 tires?
 
Can the 1520 motor be used with the Castle Mamba Monster part # CSE010-0145-00. Got a heavy MT410, just using 4S for now, says that ESC is good for 6s. See most of you are using the Castle Monster 8S ESC part # CSE010-0165-00. And what pinions are the go to for a heavy MT410 using 4S battery and the backflip 4 tires?
The MMX 6s is a beast, no problem. You’ll probably want to run it with a 22t pinion to start with and go from there.
 
I have the same setup as yours but with 100k 300k 50k (f,c,r) and when I do jumps, it just wants to do an immediate backflip, even if I ease off the throttle prior to taking off. Wondering if it has to do with the viscosity of the oils? I want it to take off jumps but not flip unless I hold on to the throttle.

Am converting it to an MT48.3 and am trying to decide what viscosity to use...
If you have a castle ESC turn the punch control up, for some reason in my mt410 and mt48 the just love being extremely nibble and move around like mad men. I don’t run ‘‘em on anything less than 30% on the punch control. Makes for a smoother trigger pull and enjoyable experience, for me personally.
 
If you have a castle ESC turn the punch control up, for some reason in my mt410 and mt48 the just love being extremely nibble and move around like mad men. I don’t run ‘‘em on anything less than 30% on the punch control. Makes for a smoother trigger pull and enjoyable experience, for me personally.
Ok newbie to this forum here, looking for a little help. I built my MT410 with the MMX 8s and 1520. Was trying to get some power down and put 500k in the center diff and it immediately blew up. Backflip LPs, 40k front, 20k rear, 4s battery. I ordered some 300k and the steel diff housing. Really want this thing to be a back flipping beast but I’m not quite there yet. Any suggestions are welcome. Will turning the punch control up help with this? Thanks much!
 
Hi @Tekno_craze , I just got an MMX8S Combo with the 1717 and I also picked up a 1520 motor off eBay for cheap (someone sold it out of their combo). I found that the 1520 rotor is quite a bit harder to turn by hand than the 1717 (or 1512,1515, and everything else I have ATM). Is that what you found with yours? Not sure if this is normal or not. When my TP4070 1700 arrives, I'll compare it to that also.
I thought that usually, higher cogging torque means more power, so I thought the 1717 rotor would be harder to turn.
Anyone else with the 1520 find it harder than most motors to turn the rotor easily by hand?

Thank you
 
Hi @Tekno_craze , I just got an MMX8S Combo with the 1717 and I also picked up a 1520 motor off eBay for cheap (someone sold it out of their combo). I found that the 1520 rotor is quite a bit harder to turn by hand than the 1717 (or 1512,1515, and everything else I have ATM). Is that what you found with yours? Not sure if this is normal or not. When my TP4070 1700 arrives, I'll compare it to that also.
I thought that usually, higher cogging torque means more power, so I thought the 1717 rotor would be harder to turn.
Anyone else with the 1520 find it harder than most motors to turn the rotor easily by hand?

Thank you
Yeah man, I actually found the same as well! The magnets in the 1520 are super super strong. Nothing to worry about!
 
Good to know that it's normal because my TP4070 arrived and even that rotor was easier to turn by hand than the 1520!
 
I know this is an old thread, but it is the one who helped solidify my decision to power my mt410 with the mmx8s 1520 combo. I've run into an issue and I really hope someone is willing/ able to help me out and clarify some things for me...

Instead of re-typing everything and constantly reviving the op's thread, I'll post the link to my issue thread... https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/advice-for-specific-setup-spektrum-and-castle.2867/

Tyia..
Twiztedjon
 

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