Which Pinion

[quadcells]

Stock spur on the MT410, Hobbywing 1900kv motor, 4S lipo. What Pinion should put in?
Oh I was going to go with proline 3.8" badlands, but I bought the backflips 4s if that helps determine which size Pinion.

 

[Papi Chingon]

This is personal preference, but 14-16 is pretty standard. Personally i went with 16 tooth. Probably want to order the hardened steel spur gear at the same time because the plastic one won't hold up.

 

[Amateurhour]

How warm is it where you live? Generally I’d say start with the 15t and work your way up checking motor and esc temperatures when running. The smaller backflips will help keep temps down so you can probably start with a 16 or maybe 17 if you’re looking for some speed.

 

[TBuggy]

On my track I run an EB48.3 with same size motor (as your MT) on 4s with a 17t pinion. There were some recent changes though and I may drop a tooth now since the traction has gone up.

Thats also with some standard buggy tires/wheels.

Like the prior suggestions, I would start low (maybe 15t) and work your way up as you check your temps.

 

[Nicochau]

I run 17t on my ET48, 4s Backflips, tekin truggy can 2000kv on 4s. Added fans to be on the safe side.

 

[quadcells]

Thanks all for your input. I live in the northeast USA (New Hampshire) it's anywhere from -20 to 95 even 100 sometimes depending what season it is, but I don't tend to drive when it is above 85. If any of you guys are in NE, you know we have a saying about the weather "if you don't like it, wait a minute". I think I'll get the harden steel spur too with a 15t pinion to start.

 

[Richard Harris]

I have 25 runs on 4S with a 2200kv motor with a 16t and 17t and the plastic spur is fine. Set your mesh properly and you don't need a steel spur.

 

[quadcells]

I already ordered the spur, I'll keep on hand as a spare.

 

[TBuggy]

I have never ran a metal spur gear due to never needing one, even on the loose dirt track I run on. I also don't care for the extra noise the metal spur makes.

 

[quadcells]

Only experience that I have setting the mesh is what I did with my Slash which was to use a piece of paper between the spur and pinion. Is that the way it's done with the Tekno MT410?

 

[Nicochau]

Only experience that I have setting the mesh is what I did with my Slash which was to use a piece of paper between the spur and pinion. Is that the way it's done with the Tekno MT410?

Same principle, a lot easier to set than on the slash,

With a plastic spur, check the mesh all around because the spur is never perfectly circular.

I personally don’t do the paper thing, i just make sure it does not bind. Once set, put a battery in and listen to how it sounds in movement. A bad mesh sounds louder and different. You will undoubtedly recognize a good mesh from a bad mesh. If you have a doubt, loosen the mesh setting screws and start running your truck on a stand. While you give it a bit of throttle, push the motor insert forward and backwards and listen to how it sounds.

With what sounds like a good mesh, check the distance between the spur & pinion teeth. Then screw the insert back while you make sure that mesh has not changed. I find that is the most irritating part, when screwing the motor insert in the mount changes the mesh. Do multiple checks and unscrew the insert just enough to be able to move that pinion back and forth.

 

[Nicochau]

I have never ran a metal spur gear due to never needing one, even on the loose dirt track I run on. I also don't care for the extra noise the metal spur makes.

Yeah, i don’t know why the metal spur is listed in the must do upgrades.

The TKR5262 cnc split center diff mount looks like a better upgrade to me.

 

[quadcells]

Same principle, a lot easier to set than on the slash,

With a plastic spur, check the mesh all around because the spur is never perfectly circular.

I personally don’t do the paper thing, i just make sure it does not bind. Once set, put a battery in and listen to how it sounds in movement. A bad mesh sounds louder and different. You will undoubtedly recognize a good mesh from a bad mesh. If you have a doubt, loosen the mesh setting screws and start running your truck on a stand. While you give it a bit of throttle, push the motor insert forward and backwards and listen to how it sounds.

With what sounds like a good mesh, check the distance between the spur & pinion teeth. Then screw the insert back while you make sure that mesh has not changed. I find that is the most irritating part, when screwing the motor insert in the mount changes the mesh. Do multiple checks and unscrew the insert just enough to be able to move that pinion back and forth.

Thank you, I'll give it a whirl.

 

[Tamiyauberalles]

I'm running 18T with standard truggy tires on the MT410, 2050kV motor, less with bigger tires like the backflips.
17T on the EB48.4

The local track has a very long straight where you can easily gain precious time when racing.

 

[Relic01]

I love that center diff mount idea , the stock one is kinda weird , just my opinion but there's gotta be a better hookup than that , I like the mount to the chassis but the housing around the bearings is kinda funny ,,, again just a opinion , I just looked at that center diff mount , very good upgrade , but I can't believe they don't have a cool cap for it too , or is that a different part

 

[TBuggy]

I have seen these on eBay;

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fib...280164?hash=item28749f2b24:g:DxEAAOSwAvpbv1Rx

 

[Ray4624]

i also run 16t with the plastic spur, 4s with 2200kv motor.
This wekeend after almost a full pack i was right at around 110 degrees motor and 115 esc in massachusetts (was about 80 degrees)

 

[Nicochau]

i also run 16t with the plastic spur, 4s with 2200kv motor.
This wekeend after almost a full pack i was right at around 110 degrees motor and 115 esc in massachusetts (was about 80 degrees)

Hey @Ray4624, that is really low. You could easily add one or two teeth and still be in safe zone.

 

[Ray4624]

ooh dont tempt me with a good time!

ill see what ive got in the bin and ill go up a tooth or two. Thanks!