DallasRob
Member
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 9
- Tekno RC's
- MT410
- Driving Style
- Basher
Howdy.
I acquired the running gear from an e-revo (VXL-6s and 2200kv velineon motor) and thought "how hard could it be to put in the MT410?".
The first problem is that for a 6s esc, the vxl-6s is huge (compared to a Monster X):
There was no way it was going to fit in the normal spot so I finally get to try a long can build.
That M2C widebody kit came with an esc relocation plate for the box on the battery side but it was too small. I then noticed that the M2C rear horizontal brace had a nice flat surface on it on the mid-line of the car.
I figured that I could make a plate to go on top of it and secure it by using four longer screws into the motor mount but then I noticed that the brace has three holes already drilled in it. A 3mm screw will pass through them but a 4mm would not. What if I tapped those holes and mounted it that way? I figured this best since it wouldn't change how the brace is mounted.
Looking at the holes in the brace, I got a bit worried that I'd be taking out too much material if I tapped it for 4mm so I went with a #6-32 which is roughly 3.5mm. I didn't even have to redrill the holes. I just tapped them as is. The local hardware store has a large selection of screws and they had the flat head hex ones that I needed. Funny thing, the hex on those is 5/64 which just happens to be 2mm. My MIP 2mm driver works on it so no need for another hex driver. Small win.
I had some 1/8 Kydex laying around but that seemed floppy and I had another problem. If I screw a plate on top of the brace, to remove the brace, I have to unscrew the plate. That meant that I couldn't mount the esc with tape since I'd have to cut the tape each time I wanted to remove it. Luckily the vxl-6s has mounting screws on it's sides so if I had a plate that could be tapped, I could mount it with the screws and make it easily removeable.
I decided to try a piece of 1/4" aluminum. I'm not a metal worker nor do I have any special tools but the plate was easy to work with. It cut easily with a jig saw and 24 tooth blade. Here's the first rough cut with the necessary holes:
You need that notch to get access to the top motor mount screw. Notice that I had to counter sink those holes. I already had some bits like these:
and they worked well on the aluminum.
At the rear, the brace angles up to meet the shock tower so that part of the new plate had to be cut out. This was easily done with a file on the underside:
And finally, here it is ready to bash:
Notice that I had to notch it on the other side to not interfere with the battery. That mount is solid! No movement anywhere. Plenty of room for a longer canned motor now.
There's plenty of room up there for something like a MAX6 or Monster X 8S by making a wider plate. If I was really cool, I'd take my dremel and remove all the material that I don't absolutely need to make the plate lighter. It's just a bit over 2.5 oz now and I could probably get .5 to .75 oz off of it. Maybe another day.
If the M2C guys see this, do you think that I could tap those three holes 4mm without compromising the brace? Those #6 screws work, but the existing hole was slightly larger than the required pilot hole so that means that the threads are slightly smaller. Not a big deal but if those screws fail, I'd need to go 4mm.
So what do you think? Overkill?
Rob
I acquired the running gear from an e-revo (VXL-6s and 2200kv velineon motor) and thought "how hard could it be to put in the MT410?".
The first problem is that for a 6s esc, the vxl-6s is huge (compared to a Monster X):
There was no way it was going to fit in the normal spot so I finally get to try a long can build.
That M2C widebody kit came with an esc relocation plate for the box on the battery side but it was too small. I then noticed that the M2C rear horizontal brace had a nice flat surface on it on the mid-line of the car.
I figured that I could make a plate to go on top of it and secure it by using four longer screws into the motor mount but then I noticed that the brace has three holes already drilled in it. A 3mm screw will pass through them but a 4mm would not. What if I tapped those holes and mounted it that way? I figured this best since it wouldn't change how the brace is mounted.
Looking at the holes in the brace, I got a bit worried that I'd be taking out too much material if I tapped it for 4mm so I went with a #6-32 which is roughly 3.5mm. I didn't even have to redrill the holes. I just tapped them as is. The local hardware store has a large selection of screws and they had the flat head hex ones that I needed. Funny thing, the hex on those is 5/64 which just happens to be 2mm. My MIP 2mm driver works on it so no need for another hex driver. Small win.
I had some 1/8 Kydex laying around but that seemed floppy and I had another problem. If I screw a plate on top of the brace, to remove the brace, I have to unscrew the plate. That meant that I couldn't mount the esc with tape since I'd have to cut the tape each time I wanted to remove it. Luckily the vxl-6s has mounting screws on it's sides so if I had a plate that could be tapped, I could mount it with the screws and make it easily removeable.
I decided to try a piece of 1/4" aluminum. I'm not a metal worker nor do I have any special tools but the plate was easy to work with. It cut easily with a jig saw and 24 tooth blade. Here's the first rough cut with the necessary holes:
You need that notch to get access to the top motor mount screw. Notice that I had to counter sink those holes. I already had some bits like these:
and they worked well on the aluminum.
At the rear, the brace angles up to meet the shock tower so that part of the new plate had to be cut out. This was easily done with a file on the underside:
And finally, here it is ready to bash:
Notice that I had to notch it on the other side to not interfere with the battery. That mount is solid! No movement anywhere. Plenty of room for a longer canned motor now.
There's plenty of room up there for something like a MAX6 or Monster X 8S by making a wider plate. If I was really cool, I'd take my dremel and remove all the material that I don't absolutely need to make the plate lighter. It's just a bit over 2.5 oz now and I could probably get .5 to .75 oz off of it. Maybe another day.
If the M2C guys see this, do you think that I could tap those three holes 4mm without compromising the brace? Those #6 screws work, but the existing hole was slightly larger than the required pilot hole so that means that the threads are slightly smaller. Not a big deal but if those screws fail, I'd need to go 4mm.
So what do you think? Overkill?
Rob
