EB48 2.2 Positive Droop?

[MountainGiant]

I've had my EB48 2.2 built for a month and I haven't had a chance to dial it in. I noticed in the manual they discuss measuring droop two ways. With a shock droop gauge or a block droop gauge.

When measuring with the block style droop gauge they mention the rear should start at -4mm in the front should be around +4 mm.

I have a Hudy 30mm Droop Block and Gauge setup but my gauge only goes from 0 to -13.

Do I just need to get a different droop gauge?

Also, I've noticed some of the other eBuggies call out for a negative droop in the front as well. Is there a reason techno's have a positive droop in the front?

 

[RustyUs]

I'm sure every buggy has different weight transfer characteristics. Coming up with a great overall baseline setup for any brand surely will depend on the persons doing the testing, and their thoughts on what is great, before manuals go into print.

 

[RustyUs]

I've always measured droop by shocks length and calling it good, but

 

[Matthew_Armeni]

So we've found that the buggy performs best when the center of the front axle is above the bottom of the chassis when setting the droop. On the Klinik droop gauge this would a positive number.
On the rear we've found we like the center of the rear axle below the bottom of the chassis. Using the Klinik gauge this would be a negative number.

 

[Kozzy]

I've had my EB48 2.2 built for a month and I haven't had a chance to dial it in. I noticed in the manual they discuss measuring droop two ways. With a shock droop gauge or a block droop gauge.

When measuring with the block style droop gauge they mention the rear should start at -4mm in the front should be around +4 mm.

I have a Hudy 30mm Droop Block and Gauge setup but my gauge only goes from 0 to -13.

Do I just need to get a different droop gauge?

Also, I've noticed some of the other eBuggies call out for a negative droop in the front as well. Is there a reason techno's have a positive droop in the front?

I have the exact same question.
I have both the Hudy 30mm droop blocks + gauge and also the klinik set (which I don't like using since it needs assembly each time)

So in the pictures my Hudy shock gauge shows ~115mm but the Hex gauge doesn't have "+"

1. Should I use the 30mm blocks?
2. Can someone recommend the correct blocks & gauge ?

 

[Kozzy]

With 30mm blocks and stock rear droop (125mm) the arms are touching the setup board.
So I guess 36mm are the minimum here. (the klinik tool is 36mm)

 

[Skynet5]

Bit late on this but the +4 & -4 is the difference from the center of the wheel hex to the chassis. As the wheel hex’s are 12mm on diameter, using the hudy kit you are looking for the bottom of the wheel thread to touch at -2 at the front and -10 for the rear.

I.e -2+6 = 4mm above chassis at front and -10+6mm =-4 mm below the chassis at rear.

A lot of folks measure shock length, but I think that is illogical as mounting position plays a part and I might change that, but don’t want to change my droop. So the 30mm block works well for me.

I don’t think you’d ever go for droop +6mm above chassis so you are ok with negative measurement gauge only.