Advice for buying the MT48 and parts for upgrades and spares

[matvlv]

Hello everyone,
I’m new to the forum and planning to buy an MT48 because it fits well with my driving style (mainly bashing, but I also enjoy the precision of buggies and controlling my trajectories). It also seems that Tekno makes high-quality products.

I’m going to order the car and a few parts directly from the Tekno website, but I wanted to get your opinion first. I live in Quebec, and with customs and shipping delays, I’d like to avoid having to place multiple orders. I was thinking of getting a few parts to slightly upgrade the weak points and have some spares in case of breakage.

My goal isn’t to make the car indestructible — I actually prefer “fuse” parts that can break to protect more expensive or harder-to-replace components. However, for example, I’m hesitating about buying the part TKR9149A – Differential Cross Pins, because the stock ones in the differentials are plastic, and from my point of view, that’s not an ideal fuse. But they also specify: “We do not recommend these cross pins for extremely demanding conditions such as bashing.” So now I’m not sure what to do.

I know the car is new, but I think your experience with other Tekno models could help me decide which parts are most likely to break — especially since I don’t know how easily parts can be found here in Quebec or how long it takes to get them.

I hope I was clear enough; English isn’t very easy for me

I’d really appreciate any comments, opinions, or advice.

On below, the parts i think to buy:

TKR9688 – Chassis/Shock Tower Brace (MT48 2.0)
TKR9149A – Differential Cross Pins (7075 alum, hard ano, 2.0, 6pcs)
TKR6160 – Shock Piston Blanks (CNC, flat/tapered, 16 dimples, 4pcs) (I saw in a video that the original ones could break)
TKR9661 – Hinge Pin Brace Set (steel/composite, A/B/C/D, MT48 2.0) (I guess it breaks?)
TKR7798 – Body Post Set (swivel, 4pcs) (I guess it breaks?)
TKR9597 – Body Mount Base Set (MT410 2.0) (I guess it breaks?)
TKR9237 – Spur Gear (44T, composite, EB/ET48 2.0) (I prefer composite for the noise, and it acts as a good fuse.)
TKR9034 – Hinge Pins (outer, rear, 2.0, 2pcs)(Can they bend?)
TKR6018 – Shock Cap and Spring Adjustment Collars (composite, for 2 shocks) (I didn’t find any in aluminum, too bad.)


Thanks in advance, and have a great weekend!

 

[HulkRC]

The aluminium diff cross pins is a definite upgrade over the plastic stock ones. Tekno should have included it with the kit. It's in my bucket list.
Some owners have been breaking the stock A blocks and replacing all blocks with the Tekno solid aluminium ones with pill blocks and widening the holes to accommodate the 5mm hinge pins. Another upgrade in my bucket list.
The stock plastic shock caps are prone to breakage. M2C has heavy duty emulsion aluminum shock caps as well as delrin pistons.
You might want to get different sizespinion gears to see what works best for your bashing. I started with 14T, 15T, and will be trying 17t.
Good luck with your build!

 

[Leonoff.A]

Most think you need -
for first run 6s :
1) metall diff pins
2) normal diff cases from truggy (cent metall prefer)
For bash:
1) metall spur (if 6s)
2) metall shock caps
3) allracing Ackerman brace
4) tkr5122
5) centr brace
Spare part:
1) bulkheads or buy metall
2) shock ends
3) hinge pins brace set
4) arms
5) chub and spindles
Other spares usually broke not so often.
But in perfect world you need all

 

[matvlv]

Hello, thanks to both of you for the advice. I’ll look into replacing the shock caps with aluminum ones, but I thought the ones from the ET48 model would fit — it seems they’re not the same diameter, if I understand correctly.

I’ll also get a few pinions, since I plan to run only on 4S, and I’ll go with the Castle motor and ESC recommended by Tekno.
As for the diff case, it looks like I can replace it with TKR9115C (or TKR9115B? It’s not very clear to me which one to choose).

I find it’s not always easy to know which ET48 parts are compatible with the MT48. They probably tried to reduce costs to make the MT kit more affordable, but if I end up needing to replace too many parts, maybe it would make more sense to buy the ET48 instead (if it’s stronger?). But then again, it doesn’t have the same geometry or purpose, so that’s probably not a good idea.

For the other spare parts, I’ll check case by case, because if I buy everything, it would almost be cheaper to get two MT48s

As I mentioned in my introduction, even though I sometimes drive in skateparks or BMX tracks, I generally try to take good care of my cars — though sometimes things don’t go as planned

Do you also have any preferred brands for good-quality screws and bearings?

Thanks a lot for your advice, it’s really helpful for me.
Have a great weekend!

 

[Acontisr]

Welcome. Im new here also still haven’t put mine together been reading posts to see what i need upgrade wise before i build. First Tekno so im excited.

 

[HulkRC]

Welcome. Im new here also still haven’t put mine together been reading posts to see what i need upgrade wise before i build. First Tekno so im excited.

Welcome to the forum. I generally run my models initially in stock form and replace/upgrade as parts break and/or require maintenance. Everyone has different driving styles and skill sets. I haven't broken certain parts whereas others have. However, it will upgrade if it's a common problem to prevent further damage.
Good luck with your build! The MT48 2.0 is an awesome platform for bashing.

 

[HulkRC]

Hello, thanks to both of you for the advice. I’ll look into replacing the shock caps with aluminum ones, but I thought the ones from the ET48 model would fit — it seems they’re not the same diameter, if I understand correctly.

I’ll also get a few pinions, since I plan to run only on 4S, and I’ll go with the Castle motor and ESC recommended by Tekno.
As for the diff case, it looks like I can replace it with TKR9115C (or TKR9115B? It’s not very clear to me which one to choose).

I find it’s not always easy to know which ET48 parts are compatible with the MT48. They probably tried to reduce costs to make the MT kit more affordable, but if I end up needing to replace too many parts, maybe it would make more sense to buy the ET48 instead (if it’s stronger?). But then again, it doesn’t have the same geometry or purpose, so that’s probably not a good idea.

For the other spare parts, I’ll check case by case, because if I buy everything, it would almost be cheaper to get two MT48s

As I mentioned in my introduction, even though I sometimes drive in skateparks or BMX tracks, I generally try to take good care of my cars — though sometimes things don’t go as planned

Do you also have any preferred brands for good-quality screws and bearings?

Thanks a lot for your advice, it’s really helpful for me.
Have a great weekend!

I would stick with Tekno screws and bearings. They make good quality stuff.

 

[matvlv]

Hello, and thanks for your replies.
I usually run my cars stock as well and only buy parts when something breaks, but here in Quebec/Canada, Tekno parts are not always in stock, and some of my packages from the US took several months to arrive because of customs delays. That’s why I'm thinking about stocking a few parts in advance, since the season for driving is relatively short here.


On my previous cars, I often had to replace the bearings because I drive when it's damp or even in the snow (here in Quebec there's a lot of snow, and there can still be road salt in the spring). Even with grease and proper cleaning, I often had rusted bearings (same thing with Kanzen 2RS bearings).


After doing some research, I think I’ll try bearings with the LLB / LLU seal standard (NMB, NSK, etc.), which are supposed to be much better sealed. I’ll test them on the bearings that are most exposed. They’re not particularly expensive (much cheaper than ceramic ones, but harder to find). I’ll keep you updated on the results.


For the ESC/Motor combo, I’m thinking of going with the Castle MX + 1515 2200kv. I also need to choose a servo (something good and reliable that won’t give me any issues).


Thanks, and have a great week!

 

[RCFinger]

Hi!
Get the TKR9149 cross pins
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr9149-differential-cross-pins-2-0-6pcs/

ABCD blocks get the ADU Racing ones they just released.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010178931631.html

Shock pistons i use are M2C1133
https://m2cracing.net/shop/#!/M2C-1133-16-MM-8-HOLE-1-3-HOLES-ORING-SHOCK-PISTONS/p/478044692

Shock caps TKR8702
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr8702-shock-caps-7075-emulsionventedstandard-black-ano-2pcs/

Shock Collars you choose the colour you want.
https://www.teknorc.com/?s=6013

You get the composite spur gear with the kit, but by all means buy another as a spare.

Also get the ADU centre brace and 7075 diff.

Come join the MT48 2.0 group https://www.facebook.com/groups/821691043600817

 

[matvlv]

Thanks for your reply and the links.
I ordered the MT48 yesterday from the Tekno website (no stock anywhere in Canada) along with most of the parts you mentioned in your message. I’ll take a closer look at the ADU and M2C parts.

I just hope the MT48 won’t take too long to arrive and that I won’t get any unpleasant surprises with customs fees.

I was going to order the Castle MX + 1515 2200kv yesterday, but there’s no stock in Canada either, so I might have to go with something else — like the HW Pro G3 + 2200kv, for example. I had the HW G2 Plus on a buggy and it worked really well, but I have some doubts about how the G3 will perform on an MT. I’d like an ESC that fits easily in the MT48 (without any modifications), but I’m worried the G3 might overheat (even though I’ll only be running 4S).

I’m quite surprised to see so many “out of stock” references in Canada — not sure if it’s always like this or just a temporary situation, but hey, there’s always a solution in the end

Have a great week!

 

[Leonoff.A]

You can try xr8plus g2, feet perfectly, and 6s, or easy take quickrun 8bl150g2

 

[RCFinger]

Thanks for your reply and the links.
I ordered the MT48 yesterday from the Tekno website (no stock anywhere in Canada) along with most of the parts you mentioned in your message. I’ll take a closer look at the ADU and M2C parts.

I just hope the MT48 won’t take too long to arrive and that I won’t get any unpleasant surprises with customs fees.

I was going to order the Castle MX + 1515 2200kv yesterday, but there’s no stock in Canada either, so I might have to go with something else — like the HW Pro G3 + 2200kv, for example. I had the HW G2 Plus on a buggy and it worked really well, but I have some doubts about how the G3 will perform on an MT. I’d like an ESC that fits easily in the MT48 (without any modifications), but I’m worried the G3 might overheat (even though I’ll only be running 4S).

I’m quite surprised to see so many “out of stock” references in Canada — not sure if it’s always like this or just a temporary situation, but hey, there’s always a solution in the end

Have a great week!

What @Leonoff.A said. I have both of those. The Quicrun 8BL150 4274 2000kv combo is what i run in my MT48 and it is really smooth for an uncensored system, and very good value!

 

[obessedwithrc]

I agree with @RCFinger. Go ahead and purchase the relevant Tekno parts from the ADU store. M2C Racing will likely come out with upgrade parts here soon, but I have found that ADU does make decent quality parts.

Make sure you purchase the steel cross pins, not the aluminum ones. The aluminum cross pins have "A" as the last digit in the part number.

TKR9149 - steel
TKR9149A - aluminum

Over time, there will likely be additional upgrades available from third-party companies. It's not likely Tekno will release additional upgrades for the MT48.

As for bearings, when I purchase a new set of bearings, I remove the seals and pack them with extra grease if I know I'm going to be running my trucks in the mud or snow.

Also, I spray my driveline with "WD-40 Specialist Dry Lube 300059." Dry lube lubricates the drivetrain and does not attract dirt or dust like grease would. The dry lube also helps to prevent corrosion.

Lastly, if you can find it in your area, Cow RC has a great line of products for lubrication and corrosion prevention: https://cowrc.com/deluxe-lubrication-rc-maintenance-kit/. I especially like their R/C silicon protector, which I use to lightly coat the entire body and let dry before running.

The silicon coating helps to block contaminants from building up on parts, reducing cleaning time and preventing rust. If you can't find Cow RC products, you can buy WD-40 silicon spray.

 

[matvlv]

Thank you for your responses. I had read online that installing the HW G2 could be difficult, that it needed to be mounted vertically, etc. I was mistaken—good news, that gives me more options. I’m already familiar with the HW G2 Plus since I’ve used it before; it’s very smooth, powerful, and reliable, even in very humid conditions.


I found a Castle Mamba X + 1515 2200kv combo second-hand, never used and still in the box, right near me—for a great price, real luck! However, I mistakenly bought the TKR9149A aluminum diff pins; I’ll order the TKR9149 steel ones instead.


Thanks for the advice about rust—here we get a lot of snow and salt, so things can rust easily. Also, in the cold, some plastics become brittle, but Tekno (and Traxxas) are known for their high-quality plastics (we’ll see ).


I just ordered the ADU aluminum hinge pins after seeing Leonoff’s post this morning.
Have a great weekend!

 

[Leonoff.A]

It's not big problem to put hwg2 but it si not good for bash because delay between brake and reverse

 

[matvlv]

Thank you, yes, I used the HW G2 on a buggy on the track, but for bashing — especially in the air — that latency could be annoying. That said, I received the Mamba X and 2200Kv yesterday, so I hope it performs well.

 

[matvlv]

Hello,
Just wanted to share my experience. I just finished building my MT48 — it was quite easy because the manual is clear and precise. I did find one small error in the manual at Step I-1: the screw listed as TKR1522 M3x8mm Cap Head is actually an M3x10mm in the kit. I asked Tekno support and they confirmed it’s normal.

I added a few options such as steel differential pins, aluminum shock caps, and NMB J&T Bearing–spec bearings everywhere (they handle water very well). For the body shell, I didn’t do a very clean job, and I applied fiber + Shoegoo and more fiber.

I ran the MT48 a bit and the handling is just incredible compared to the MAXX V2 (which is already a fun and tough truck). The suspension, cornering, steering response, and overall precision… it’s on another level. I’m even considering using it on an RC track with truggy tires.

There are two things I’m still unsure about.
I have a Tekno 14T pinion, a Castle 2200kv V1 motor, and the plastic spur gear. I mounted the motor using the “14” holes on the motor mount, but I’m wondering if it would be better to use the “15” holes — not sure.
Also, I have quite a bit of play at the wheels, and I was thinking about adding a shim between the bearing and the wheel hub.

But with the soft snow here it’s not easy to drive right now, so I’ll need to be patient.

 

[HulkRC]

Did you install your ADU ABCD hinge pin blocks? I broke the stock A block and shock standoff from a minor bad landing today so I ordered the ADU blocks and M2C shock standoffs. I read on the FB forum that a member used a mallet and clamp to install the hinge pins in the ADU C&D blocks as the holes are parallel and not angled for easier installation.

 

[HulkRC]

I have the same motor/esc set up and now run the 17T pinion on stock 44 spur gear on 4s. I started with the 14T and 15T pinions one hole up setting for proper gear mesh, both had good punch and acceleration but I couldn't do standing backflips. With the 17T pinion, it still can't do standing backflips but it's much more ballistic and can pop willies with ease. Next step is to go 6S like my Kraton and Notorious, both have no problem doing standing backflips with stock gearing.

 

[matvlv]

No, I don’t have the ADU hinge pin blocks. I wanted to buy them, but I also saw on the forum that the installation isn’t great. I think I’ll wait for Tekno to release a 5 mm aluminum version, or for ADU to fix the issue.
Anyway, there’s so much snow right now that I can’t run the car, so I’m going to wait a bit.

For the pinions, I’ll install the 14T using the 15T holes then (is that what you did?).

As for standing backflips, I don’t know — it slips too much with the snow
But I think I’ll stay on 4S because on 6S I’m afraid of breaking the drivetrain, and since I have to order parts from the USA because they’re often out of stock in Quebec, it’s a 3-week delay every time — and the nice season is short here )