SCT410SL by RustyUs

[RustyUs]

To me, short course trucks look so much like actual real full size AMSOIL Off-Road racing trucks. That is what draws me to the SCT part of the hobby. I love stadium trucks, truggies, and buggies, but their bodies have transformed into weird futuristic pieces of Lexan.

What can I say? Once I had seen the SCT410SL was being based off of the EB/ET410 platforms, I just had to have the this kit.

My SL will be for my backyard track bashin' fun more than anything. I just thought I'd maybe show/share my build with others, and maybe highlight some of the parts used.

 

[Cheez]

Looking forward to the build.

 

[Ferrebee88]

I thought about picking one up but... I just finished an et410.2 and am currently building the sct410.3. Maybe one day.

 

[RustyUs]

I thought about picking one up but... I just finished an et410.2 and am currently building the sct410.3. Maybe one day.

My plans are to grab an ET410.2 for a special ode/homage/tribute build later this year.

I want the SCT410SL to kind of have the same turning performance as my ET410, so I went with 15k/20k/7k on the diff fluids for starters. Box stock setup on the SL diff fluids is 30k/30k/20k which I'm sure is geared towards med~high grip clay tracks.

Oh, and my ancient Racers Edge diff holder is one of my favorite little RC knickknack tools to have and use during builds and maintenance.

 

[RustyUs]

I had originally hoped for a Tekno RC SCT410 2.0 to be unveiled... some sort of EB48 2.1 converted over to SCT that had easy access diffs. After seeing the lightweight short course truck preorder pictures, and based off what I already had... parts sharing goodness made me all happy/warm inside.

Okay, I'm going to be the oddball person and run rear mounted shocks on the rear arms...

Medium to loose traction outdoor dirt track... I want the SCT410SL to have it's weight, what weight I can easily move, as far back as possible.

Blah, blah, blah. "Why not just get a SCT410.3 to run on outdoor loose stuff?", you ask. I just had to have the SCT410SL not only because of the ET410 parts sharing, but the "openness" of the chassis... pebbles and debris easier to escape. I looked into buying a Senton 3S for poops and laughs , but the whole honycombed chassis thing would be a disaster in my case. Tearing out the RTR electronics; trying to sell that crap; upgrading the shocks... RTRs are not my thing. Not to mention there is too much incorporated into the Senton chassis e.g., lower gearboxes, and hinge pin mounts.

 

[RustyUs]

I don't care what everyone says, every RC out there has it's own set of "issues"; every RC platform can break. Having an off-road RC usually involves jumps... landing awkwardly on one corner... it's just the nature of things... stuff breaks.

I have seen/read about the .2's adjustable hubs breaking right where the inserts go:

Is it an actual weak point? I don't know. I don't have an EB/ET410.2 to compare to the hubs that came on the original ET410... which I have not broken yet (knock on wood).

During the Rear Hub/CVA Assembly, I went with the original ET410 TKR6545 rear hubs for assurance.

The extra/solid material, where the hinge pin goes through, is my justification for use.

At some point, I'm sure I'll venture the thought of using the supplied TKR6576 adjustable rear hubs. I don't need that roll center adjustability at the hinge pin. For now, I'll go with what I know works.

 

[nub]

I've had my EB .2 for three years and not had any problems with the rear hubs. I'm not sure how a break like that would happen. Maybe someone t boned them hitting directly on the rear wheel? I've bent a rod end on the steering link. The track that happened had a chain link fence along the back straight. They put plywood up to keep you off the fence but they left some gaps between the sheets and I found one. Broke an outer rod end on the rear toe link. That was an inner wheel bearing failure I didn't notice happening.


Have you decided on electronics?

 

[Ferrebee88]

I have seen/read about the .2's adjustable hubs breaking right where the inserts go:
View attachment 9150
Is it an actual weak point? I don't know. I don't have an EB/ET410.2 to compare to the hubs that came on the original ET410... which I have not broken yet (knock on wood).

I broke mine on my et410.2 within in the first 2 battery packs around the track. I picked up some exotec ones to replace them.

 

[RustyUs]

Ferrebee88,​

Yes, those Exotek hubs are what "everyone" recommends to upgrade to. They sure do look awesome with the anodizing in Tekno's gun metal blue color . Who doesn't like a little "bling" for their RCs ? I had those hubs saved in my RC Wish List when they first came out. I just haven't had the need for them yet. If I can get away with using the ET410 plastic hubs; not spend the extra , and have that extra lil' bit of give... sign me up!

 

[RustyUs]

I opted out on the anti-sway bars this time around. They are of no use to me .

I usually build a kit to the box stock setup in the manual, but after a few runs on a super rough/bumpy/rutted track... off come the extra corner stability enhancing bits .

Roll, baby, roll! I like to watch top heavy beauties sway a bit while getting the job done ... on the track... in and out of the corners.

 

[Matthew_Armeni]

The SCSL kit makes use of the new rear hubs and their adjustable axle height, the kit setup has a 1mm lower axle height than the old hubs. Some of our drivers even prefer the lowest axle position on the hub, which is 2mm lower than the old hubs. Omitting the rear swaybar will help with the higher roll center that the older hubs have, but it may be take away too much support on power. I would definitely keep the swaybar on hand when you go to the track. The included 1.5mm bar was a good compromise between indoor clay track and loose outdoor tracks.

Also, despite the additional weight, the SC seems to break less parts than the EB or the ET. The body adds a good amount of protection to the suspension components during rollovers/crashes.

 

[a2lowvw]

Have a few locals that glue the rear hub inserts in place and have stopped breaking hubs.

 

[RustyUs]

Those set screws, that secure the kingpin shoulder screws, require a delicate touch. To better feel them out better, I semi pre thread the spindles. I insert them 3/4 of the way in, then back them out a bit before finishing snugging them down with only thumb and index finger on hex driver handle.

Speaking of spindles, I always keep spare kingpin shoulder screws on hand.

If I had to take a guess, kingpins take some of the most punishment during a rip around Mother Earth. I've probably lost two of them during the past four years on my ET410. It's always fun having an RC come straight at you, and you see that every popular one tire/wheel "wonkiness" leaning way too much; flappin' side to side... you know something's not right look.

 

[RustyUs]

In both the paper & PDF manuals, A and B blocks are shown with inserts center dot down in the assembly, but setup sheet in back of manuals shows the inserts with dots centered.

I just went with the the center dot inserts.

Edit: The revised manual (REV3) now has the center dot as stock setup for the A&B blocks:

 

[RustyUs]

Turnbuckles: Am I the only one that reverses the orientation of them? When using spanner/turnbuckle wrench; facing the rear of the RC, I like it so that when I'm pulling back on the wrench, the rod ends tighten/move towards center of turnbuckle. I've been doing that since... forever.

 

[Matthew_Armeni]

Turnbuckles: Am I the only one that reverses the orientation of them? When using spanner/turnbuckle wrench; facing the rear of the RC, I like it so that when I'm pulling back on the wrench, the rod ends tighten/move towards center of turnbuckle. I've been doing that since... forever.

View attachment 9192

Everyone I know does it so turning them forward tightens them, but as long as you and/or your pit gut knows that's all that matters.

I remember turning them forward is tighter by thinking "If you're moving forward, you're getting closer to the finish" which my brain interprets as the rod ends are getting closer together.

 

[RustyUs]

I went a different route than expected on motor/ESC combo.
The new G2 ESC/G3 motor will, most likely, end up in my SCT410.3 depending on outcome.

After going through different teeth, and multiple brands of pinion gears, I was overjoyed with the mesh being pretty much spot on. The amount of spur gear rocking, when checking mesh all around the spur gear, was right where I like it.

I give the mount a big two thumbs up.

There has been only one report that I've seen where mesh was too loose, and that was using a RR Mod.8 16T pinion. The holes in the mount are said to larger than needed to be, which will allow a wee lil' bit of wiggle room.

 

[RustyUs]

When at step J-6, this appears...

Part number TKR6547 for the risers and Sway Bar and Bulkhead Acc:

I asked the question about risers on another forum as I have never raised gearboxes/bulkheads before. At first I though it might be a roll center/gravity "thing". Searched for a thread on the subject, but confusing answers and one of the threads was just all over the place and went onto gyroscopic effects, and anti sway bar talk . Picture sent by Precision1 explained quite a bit...

I followed manual setup and no risers used.

 

[RustyUs]

Box stock setup calls for 400cst. I went with 350cst just because I like softer setups than what is generally recommended in 95% the RCs I get.

Rear shocks mounted on the rear of the arms. Used a 2mm spacer, between the shock rod end and the arm, to keep the springs from rubbing on the driveshafts.

 

[RustyUs]

Switched the button head screws to cap head screws simply for the extra material they have. Larger hex driver needed (2.5mm vs. 2mm) to loosen the ones that have threadlocker on them. Just being overcautious I guess.

I forgot to mention the servo I used in this build. It is a JX Servo CLS5830HV-V2 that I ordered, years ago, from Asiatees Hobbies.

My JX servo has been repurposed many times. Was in my 1/8 scale buggy at one time, but after a year of abuse in a monster truggy, the gears let loose. The monster truggy had a servo saver, but still... I never thought the servo would survive for as long as it did. Replaced the gearset and good to go again. The JX servo found it's new home in the SL now.