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MT410 Hobbywing Max 8 loud grinding noise

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digimike21

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Team,

New MT410 has a loud grinding noise when I accelerate and louder when I reverse.

Hobbywing max 8 combo
4s and some 3s, maybe 15-20packs through
Savox 1210g
Futaba 4pm R304SB
4s Backflip lps
Probably all of the M2C hopups
15t pinion
Tekno metal spur gear
Orange springs all around

I checked front and rear diff and everything looks good in there. I have one shim on front and rear diff.

Sound doesn’t happen when the truck is up on a stand with tires. It only happens when driving around and it happens right away. Truck is also much slower. My initial thought was the ESC.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
 
Can’t really help you…but I’m about to take the same combo out in the next day or two. I am watching closely. Good luck, maybe a video?
 
Team,

New MT410 has a loud grinding noise when I accelerate and louder when I reverse.

Hobbywing max 8 combo
4s and some 3s, maybe 15-20packs through
Savox 1210g
Futaba 4pm R304SB
4s Backflip lps
Probably all of the M2C hopups
15t pinion
Tekno metal spur gear
Orange springs all around

I checked front and rear diff and everything looks good in there. I have one shim on front and rear diff.

Sound doesn’t happen when the truck is up on a stand with tires. It only happens when driving around and it happens right away. Truck is also much slower. My initial thought was the ESC.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Did you check mesh on all diffs?
 
Thank you for the reply. Center diff is good. After checking them, I added one shim to the front and rear diff, and the mesh seemed good to me. I did have a hard time placing the inner bearing into the front gearbox. That plastic is slightly warped in that area that holds the bearing, but the mesh seems good when everything is put together. Do you have any recommendations on checking the mesh for the front and rear? Thank you for your time.
 
Thank you for the reply. Center diff is good. After checking them, I added one shim to the front and rear diff, and the mesh seemed good to me. I did have a hard time placing the inner bearing into the front gearbox. That plastic is slightly warped in that area that holds the bearing, but the mesh seems good when everything is put together. Do you have any recommendations on checking the mesh for the front and rear? Thank you for your time.
Front and rear mesh are set during assembly and before putting grease on gears. You should have a bit of play between the gears. Same amount as for center diff.
 
Check the teeth on the diff ring gear and input gear and (I know it sucks) but the internal gears in the diffs. You could be missing a tooth or have a slight chip. This would be either the front or rear diffs. This happened to me in my Arrma Notorious where off the ground it ran perfectly fine even with full throttle but once the rear diff had weight under load it would start clacking again. Turned out to be snapped pins that hold the big Sun gears onto the diff outdrive cups and I think I had a small chipped tooth on one of the sun gears as well. REALLY inspect them closely.
 
Thank you for the reply. I replaced the front gearbox and had to replace the diff pinion. It was pretty worn down. So I assume that the gearbox space between the two bearings being warped was the problem. As far as the power issue goes, that was a user error. Gear mesh is good and pretty tight. I did not have to add a shim. I took the truck out today, and it works great. Thank you for your time.
 
I realize that I'm late to the party here but the heavier your MT410 build gets, the more stress the gearboxes will face. For a full on basher I think that the allracing alloy diff cases are a must. (Yea, they are pricey) I was rebuilding a diff every couple of weeks before I installed them (mainly from the stress of backflips). After, I haven't rebuilt one in 6 months even after upgrading to a Monster 8s/1520 combo running 6s.
 
I realize that I'm late to the party here but the heavier your MT410 build gets, the more stress the gearboxes will face. For a full on basher I think that the allracing alloy diff cases are a must. (Yea, they are pricey) I was rebuilding a diff every couple of weeks before I installed them (mainly from the stress of backflips). After, I haven't rebuilt one in 6 months even after upgrading to a Monster 8s/1520 combo running 6s.
Thanks for the reply. I'm starting to realize that weight is a problem. All the hop-ups seem to create a double edge sword. Can you post a link for the specific alloy diff cases? I see about four different ones on Ali express at slightly different prices. Thank you for your time.
 

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