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Front and rear toe adjustments

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JamieG

Member
Messages
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Location
Perth, Western Australia
Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
I’ve now completed my build, all bar the body and I have a question regarding the front and rear toe adjustments. Everything was set to stock but looking at the front and rear they seem a bit off? The front especially has quite
F8EF9582-9B18-487A-8BA7-C33A53853D10.jpeg
a significant toe out, the rear is toeing in. I have the backflips 4s. Please help
 
its normal to be out in front about 1 deg and around 2 in in rear. but your front looks a bit too much out.
usually the manuals aren't perfectly accurate when they tell you what length tomake the turnbuckles, you'll always end up adjusting them at the end.

check out the guide
https://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Set_Up_Guide.pdf
 
its normal to be out in front about 1 deg and around 2 in in rear. but your front looks a bit too much out.
usually the manuals aren't perfectly accurate when they tell you what length tomake the turnbuckles, you'll always end up adjusting them at the end.

check out the guide
https://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Set_Up_Guide.pdf
I thought the front looked too much toe out, I will adjust it for more toe in, is there a tool to check exactly the degrees? Thanks for the guide.
 
I thought the front looked too much toe out, I will adjust it for more toe in, is there a tool to check exactly the degrees? Thanks for the guide.
you can use a square and a camber gauge to get pretty close within a degree. since you're just bashing this isn't too important. you could just eyeball zero degrees (straight) and it'd be fine. usually i just eyeball it so that i can tell the fronts are just barely toed out (not quite zero) and its spot on 1 degree each side. but again for bashing, doesn't mater. even the fast off road dirt racing i do it doesn't matter much - most of my effort is staying on 4 wheels rather than having my steering perfectly set up! if in doubt just eyeball it to zero, turn each turnbuckle a half turn and be done.
 
you can use a square and a camber gauge to get pretty close within a degree. since you're just bashing this isn't too important. you could just eyeball zero degrees (straight) and it'd be fine. usually i just eyeball it so that i can tell the fronts are just barely toed out (not quite zero) and its spot on 1 degree each side. but again for bashing, doesn't mater. even the fast off road dirt racing i do it doesn't matter much - most of my effort is staying on 4 wheels rather than having my steering perfectly set up! if in doubt just eyeball it to zero, turn each turnbuckle a half turn and be done.
Eyeball method is what I ended up doing :)
 
To add to it, because of bump steer/camber gain being effected by mounting location, and steering linkage height, I'd eyeball toe and camber while battery is onboard and ride height is set.;)

Just the other day I was fiddling around with setting ride height after doing teardown/rebuild on a buggy & truggy. I took notice to the amount of toe difference at full droop/chassis being bottomed out. I can only guess at the amount of change, but I could definitely see things moving in/out a good amount.
 
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