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MT48 2.0 setup question?
- Thread starter RC-Steve
- Start date
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I am looking for the same information, but have a plan. Hopefully someone will tell me how wrong I am and we can both get some advice. This is my first 8th, first real basher, and generally have little experience with setup beyond theoretical and best guess. I have about 10 batteries run through mine, and only in a parking lot on street and truggy tires.
The set of Louise rc rockets I have are egg shaped and let go if leaned on by a feather. Giving them the benefit of the doubt, it's the egg shape. They are very durable however, minimal wear with lots of doughnuts, sometimes intentionally. The truggy tires are jconcepts don't remember what ones but they were a web or ellipse greens I think. I was getting so much grip with those I could see the car springing out of the apex in even a slow slalom. I could lose the rear if I was a bit ambitious and it was dusty, but very much planted concidering. I did traction roll it once.
My setup is almost kit with roll bars 2.6 front 2.8 rear. M2C ZRS shock caps so no bladder. Tekno chassis brace. Nothing else that is a big change, ceramics, steel cross pins and some titanium screws, skid plates, turnbuckles. HW xr8 and 2200kv 4268 15t, which is why I have not put the dboots that I have for it on. The 4268 gets hot moving the truck at enthusiastic speeds, I have had a cobra 8 1515 2200kv on order for a few months.
With that setup, it ate the front truggy tires in one battery. I was not abusing them, or so I thought. Its not a big lot 80' x 60' ish, no doughnuts. After the first battery I didn't even use the brakes. I swapped fronts to rears halfway through the third battery. This is really the only data point I am using. The fronts suffered with kit specs on asphalt. There was no problem turning so the rear seems fine, it straightens out on throttle in a curve, but that should be the height, wheelbase, and wrong roll bars fault.
I know the roll bars are wrong and wrong, but the front diff seems to be locking up way more than a dusty cold parking lot can handle, or the middle might be need heavier oil to keep the fronts from winding up on throttle. Best guess.
Razor rc on youtube went to 80,100,30 f,c,r from memory and he seemed to like that. I forget if he changed shock oil but did put the race pistons in and softer rear springs. He also has crazy jumps to run on that I will never match so landing 40 footers is far less of a priority vs handling right.
I have bought 100k 200k and 80k for the diffs but will probably get some lighter for the rear. I might mix to get the front in the 125k and the center to 150k. I have yet to put in the m2c pistons and have no idea how that is going to change shock oil choices.
Over the holidays or after when the right sized motor hopefully gets here, I am going to take it all apart and put in all the new parts I have which is going to add a gross amount of weight and really want to get the oils close to right the first time and am lost for ideas. On the desk is the complete vitavon and adu racing shinny aluminum parts. All 3 diff cases and housings, front and rear braces, body mounts, abcd blocks, all 4 hubs, steering bell and plate. Also a basher bodies 4mm body and titanium shock towers. With that much weight, maybe the kit diff oils would be right? I got sets of orange and red springs, but no shock oil yet. Without any advice I was just going to match stock and see what happens but maybe the increased truck weight means heavier shock oil?
I wanted to get the bigger motor in so I could send it some before winter, but I can't see how the kit front diff oil are right for the trucks natural environment. Its a good time to remind you that I don't know what I am talking about with zero experience. I have looked up some et48 setups and they are much softer in all aspects.
My problems could be the rear is overly thick I suppose, but watching it move, just did not seems like it was plowing through the turns but scrubbing if that makes any sense.
Unfortunately even after I make all these changes with winter here it will be some time before I get to give it a proper thrashing, but might grab some paddle tires and add another variable.
By "true tekno" do you mean you are going to track it?
The set of Louise rc rockets I have are egg shaped and let go if leaned on by a feather. Giving them the benefit of the doubt, it's the egg shape. They are very durable however, minimal wear with lots of doughnuts, sometimes intentionally. The truggy tires are jconcepts don't remember what ones but they were a web or ellipse greens I think. I was getting so much grip with those I could see the car springing out of the apex in even a slow slalom. I could lose the rear if I was a bit ambitious and it was dusty, but very much planted concidering. I did traction roll it once.
My setup is almost kit with roll bars 2.6 front 2.8 rear. M2C ZRS shock caps so no bladder. Tekno chassis brace. Nothing else that is a big change, ceramics, steel cross pins and some titanium screws, skid plates, turnbuckles. HW xr8 and 2200kv 4268 15t, which is why I have not put the dboots that I have for it on. The 4268 gets hot moving the truck at enthusiastic speeds, I have had a cobra 8 1515 2200kv on order for a few months.
With that setup, it ate the front truggy tires in one battery. I was not abusing them, or so I thought. Its not a big lot 80' x 60' ish, no doughnuts. After the first battery I didn't even use the brakes. I swapped fronts to rears halfway through the third battery. This is really the only data point I am using. The fronts suffered with kit specs on asphalt. There was no problem turning so the rear seems fine, it straightens out on throttle in a curve, but that should be the height, wheelbase, and wrong roll bars fault.
I know the roll bars are wrong and wrong, but the front diff seems to be locking up way more than a dusty cold parking lot can handle, or the middle might be need heavier oil to keep the fronts from winding up on throttle. Best guess.
Razor rc on youtube went to 80,100,30 f,c,r from memory and he seemed to like that. I forget if he changed shock oil but did put the race pistons in and softer rear springs. He also has crazy jumps to run on that I will never match so landing 40 footers is far less of a priority vs handling right.
I have bought 100k 200k and 80k for the diffs but will probably get some lighter for the rear. I might mix to get the front in the 125k and the center to 150k. I have yet to put in the m2c pistons and have no idea how that is going to change shock oil choices.
Over the holidays or after when the right sized motor hopefully gets here, I am going to take it all apart and put in all the new parts I have which is going to add a gross amount of weight and really want to get the oils close to right the first time and am lost for ideas. On the desk is the complete vitavon and adu racing shinny aluminum parts. All 3 diff cases and housings, front and rear braces, body mounts, abcd blocks, all 4 hubs, steering bell and plate. Also a basher bodies 4mm body and titanium shock towers. With that much weight, maybe the kit diff oils would be right? I got sets of orange and red springs, but no shock oil yet. Without any advice I was just going to match stock and see what happens but maybe the increased truck weight means heavier shock oil?
I wanted to get the bigger motor in so I could send it some before winter, but I can't see how the kit front diff oil are right for the trucks natural environment. Its a good time to remind you that I don't know what I am talking about with zero experience. I have looked up some et48 setups and they are much softer in all aspects.
My problems could be the rear is overly thick I suppose, but watching it move, just did not seems like it was plowing through the turns but scrubbing if that makes any sense.
Unfortunately even after I make all these changes with winter here it will be some time before I get to give it a proper thrashing, but might grab some paddle tires and add another variable.
By "true tekno" do you mean you are going to track it?
RC-Steve
Well-known member
- Messages
- 89
- Reaction score
- 66
- Thread starter
- #4
I have a lot of experience with the old MT410 so I'm copying it's setup.
The MT48 is currently set up as a stunt truck (I'm a big air freak). I'm giving the truck to my Daughter and she likes a tighter racer style drive (she's also a big air freak). The setup below is how I'm going to deliver it to her.
Shocks; stock springs and fluid with ET emulsion shock caps.
Diffs; 50/500/30, all steel cross pins.
Sway bars; 2.8 front, 2.6 rear.
Power; Castle Monster 2 / 1515 2200kv.
Pinion gear; 16t.
Wheels; Arrma 4s Backflips.
I have a Russian Unbreakable rip off of a Jconcepts space beadle body I'm going to be using.
The MT48 is currently set up as a stunt truck (I'm a big air freak). I'm giving the truck to my Daughter and she likes a tighter racer style drive (she's also a big air freak). The setup below is how I'm going to deliver it to her.
Shocks; stock springs and fluid with ET emulsion shock caps.
Diffs; 50/500/30, all steel cross pins.
Sway bars; 2.8 front, 2.6 rear.
Power; Castle Monster 2 / 1515 2200kv.
Pinion gear; 16t.
Wheels; Arrma 4s Backflips.
I have a Russian Unbreakable rip off of a Jconcepts space beadle body I'm going to be using.
Last edited:
RC-Steve
Well-known member
- Messages
- 89
- Reaction score
- 66
- Thread starter
- #6
For 4s and 6s monster trucks 500k is standard issue. Most RTR in this class come with 1000-2000k in the center.
I come from a basher background so I set trucks up for the dirt parks and skate parks. I don't drive by choice anywhere else.
I come from a basher background so I set trucks up for the dirt parks and skate parks. I don't drive by choice anywhere else.
