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Tekno 1/8 drivetrain durability/wear rate compared to Arrma

Klappars

Well-known member
Messages
68
Driving Style
Basher
I currently have an Arrma Talion V3 and am looking for a car that is better quality and more precisely made.


I am interested in the ET48.3 specifically. One of my main issues with the Talion is how quickly the drivetrain wears out.

Every few weeks/few dozen runs I have to replace diff outdrives, driveshafts (mostly centre) and input cups for the diffs. This cost quite a lot of money as a complete refresh of these parts costs £118!

The car is slightly modified including a Hobbywing MAX8 and a Hobbystar 4082 1600kv running 20t pinion and stock katar tyres.

Punch is set to 2/5 and I drive on grass.

My question is, do the Tekno 1/8 scales have better drivetrains in terms of wear rate? The Arrma drivetrain has never broken on me it just wears out. Because a Tekno kit is so expensive I want to know if it will be cheaper to run due to not having to replace parts as often.

I would really appreciate your response on this.
 

Billl DeLong

Well-known member
TF Excellence Award
Supporting Member
Messages
309
Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET48, SCT410, ET410
Driving Style
Racer
I don't own the ET48.3 anymore but I had about 2 years of use on that chassis before I sold it... all original shafts and out drives without a hint of any wear. The secret is to replace the pins on the shafts when you see any flat spots starting to form, pins are super cheap and will save you a fortune on parts:
Pin Replacement Tools
 

TBuggy

Well-known member
Messages
707
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
I noticed if you keep up on replacing the pins in the dog bones then the out drives last a really long time, for me anyhow, years in my case.
 

Klappars

Well-known member
Messages
68
Driving Style
Basher
I noticed if you keep up on replacing the pins in the dog bones then the out drives last a really long time, for me anyhow, years in my case.
Does the same go for center driveshafts as well?
 

TBuggy

Well-known member
Messages
707
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
Yes, but they last a little longer IME than the front and rears do.
 

TBuggy

Well-known member
Messages
707
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
I just keep an eye on them and when I see a flat spot starting to form its time to change the pins.
 

Klappars

Well-known member
Messages
68
Driving Style
Basher
I just keep an eye on them and when I see a flat spot starting to form its time to change the pins.
How easy is it to change the pins? I live in the UK so I don't know of anywhere where I could buy either new pins or a pin removal tool.
 

TBuggy

Well-known member
Messages
707
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
I get the pins from Ebay, they are usually listed as "stainless steel dowel pins" and the ones I get are usually shipped from China.

Now the pin tool is a must but I think I have heard some people using bicycle chain repair tools for the same application. You would just need to do a little research on the tips so you can get one that will be the appropriate size.
 

Klappars

Well-known member
Messages
68
Driving Style
Basher
I get the pins from Ebay, they are usually listed as "stainless steel dowel pins" and the ones I get are usually shipped from China.

Now the pin tool is a must but I think I have heard some people using bicycle chain repair tools for the same application. You would just need to do a little research on the tips so you can get one that will be the appropriate size.
What dimensions are the pins so I can have a look?
 

TBuggy

Well-known member
Messages
707
Location
Seattle
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET410, SCT410
I am going by memory and I also don't have an ET48, but I believe my EB48 has the same size pins. I think they are 3mmx14mm. But I would double check to be safe.
 

Klappars

Well-known member
Messages
68
Driving Style
Basher
I am going by memory and I also don't have an ET48, but I believe my EB48 has the same size pins. I think they are 3mmx14mm. But I would double check to be safe.
Thanks for that. My local hobby shop sells those pins so I will have a look at a removal tool.

The whole objective with this is to have a car that is cheaper to run the Talion. Therefore if a tekno is more durable and maintenance is cheaper then it will be perfect.
 

Overkill

Well-known member
Messages
267
Location
Birmingham, AL
Tekno RC's
EB48, ET48
Driving Style
Basher
Tekno uses much higher quality parts than what comes on RTR vehicles. The rear diff outdrives will get the most wear but like everyone has mentioned, replace the pins for a longer life.
 

Klappars

Well-known member
Messages
68
Driving Style
Basher
Thank you to all who have shared their experience and advice about this. I think the ET48.3 is the car for me. I will try and sell my Talion!
 

Mojoz

Member
Messages
5
I currently have an Arrma Talion V3 and am looking for a car that is better quality and more precisely made.


I am interested in the ET48.3 specifically. One of my main issues with the Talion is how quickly the drivetrain wears out.

Every few weeks/few dozen runs I have to replace diff outdrives, driveshafts (mostly centre) and input cups for the diffs. This cost quite a lot of money as a complete refresh of these parts costs £118!

The car is slightly modified including a Hobbywing MAX8 and a Hobbystar 4082 1600kv running 20t pinion and stock katar tyres.

Punch is set to 2/5 and I drive on grass.

My question is, do the Tekno 1/8 scales have better drivetrains in terms of wear rate? The Arrma drivetrain has never broken on me it just wears out. Because a Tekno kit is so expensive I want to know if it will be cheaper to run due to not having to replace parts as often.

I would really appreciate your response on this.
I have to respond because I am a retarded and haven't changed the pins and honestly didn't know about the tool that Bill mentioned and think I like Bill and his blog looks spectacular I especially like the way he so elegantly informs everybody on his views of Traxxas (which I agree with) back on topic as far as durability on the drive line and over all Tekno line they are tanks I am continuisly amazed at how durable they are. I have both the truggy and buggy which I got when realizing racing was something that interested me much more than I would of thought and I have taken way worse impacts on the track then I ever did bashing and with the truggy the only week spot I have found was the spur gears due to the chasis flex and it took quite some time to find that out that being said IMO the flex might be the very thing that makes it the fastest thing around the track the thing is almost cheating it handles so good. I have not had any issues other than wearing out a couple of bearings. I got my Tekno's strictly for the track and find myself having too bash with them due to the fact that all 15 of my other vehicles are broke or just don't bring the pure joy they Doo. And thanks for the link to your site Bill I'm looking forward to seeing what other information you share.
 

devnull

Well-known member
Messages
99
@Nicochau I just ordered that very pin removal tool an hour ago on eBay. There were several sellers offering Hudy tools, but they were over $100, and that seemed kinda extreme.
 

iceman2733

Well-known member
Messages
55
Thank you big time for the link, i was searching around and wasn't having much luck. I am going to pick one of these up need to change out some pins on my sons Mugen give it a shot instead of changing the whole axles.
 

Supradude26

Well-known member
Messages
117
I have 3 Tekno rigs including the ET48.3, and my buddy has the Aarma Kraton. The difference in quality is massive. The difference in fit and finish is massive. After 30 seconds of driving both cars you can tell that one is a RTR designed to be cheap and fast while the other is a true race vehicle that is also super durable. You wont be disapointed in making the switch.
 

Klappars

Well-known member
Messages
68
Driving Style
Basher
I have 3 Tekno rigs including the ET48.3, and my buddy has the Aarma Kraton. The difference in quality is massive. The difference in fit and finish is massive. After 30 seconds of driving both cars you can tell that one is a RTR designed to be cheap and fast while the other is a true race vehicle that is also super durable. You wont be disapointed in making the switch.
Out of curiosity. How often do you do maintenance on your ET48.3? (Specifically the driveline)

I've been looking at the cost of parts for the Tekno and they are even more than Arrma! I still need some assurance that the parts should last longer.
 

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