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410 2.0 Steering Stop Screws

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RustyUs

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Build Thread Contributor
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Location
central PA
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET410
  3. SCT410
Having lots of steering is always nice, but that last little bit of steering throw has very little leverage on the inside tire while going into a turn. This allows inside wheel/tire rubbing on my 2.0's arm. The 2.0 manual does not suggest, nor does the kit come with, any steering stops (screws) to physically control that last little bit of movement of the inside spindle/steering block. There is a molding mark on the spindle and I though it would be a great place to add a M3x6mm button head screw.
Steering Stops.jpg
 
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I would consider installing wider hex adapters so you can leverage the max steering throw to prevent rub
Sorry, but that will not fix inside tire/wheel from "floppin'" around. It's just like on the SCT410.3, and other platforms. The inside steering linkage has no push/pull (leverage) on spindle at that last bit of throw.
 
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Thank you for the detailed write up and photos. A steering stop screw seems like it should be a standard kit part.
 
Any complaints or broken knuckles since adding the stop screws?
Starting to get a bit of wear on the arms of my 2.0 as well.
 
Any complaints or broken knuckles since adding the stop screws?
Starting to get a bit of wear on the arms of my 2.0 as well.
No issues, or complaints from adding the stop screws. Complaints, from other people, about other characteristics on the SCT410 2.0... now, that's another story.
 
Probably a noob questions because well, I am a noob but couldn't you just adjust your servo end points vs putting the screw in?
 
Probably a noob questions because well, I am a noob but couldn't you just adjust your servo end points vs putting the screw in?
Using the end point adjustment to remove the slop on the inside wheel results in a drastically reduced steering angle.
Using the steering stop screw gives the knuckle something to rest on, and allows more the outer wheel to turn to full lock.
I used a 3x6mm button head screwed all the way in. I have a few packs through it and it seems to work great!
 
Probably a noob questions because well, I am a noob but couldn't you just adjust your servo end points vs putting the screw in?
Yes, but it's kind of hard to explain what's going on to the inside spindle unless you have one in front of you. There is very little to no leverage on the inside spindle/wheel/tire while taking a turn. At that point the inside wheel/tire can have a mind of it's own. Every Tekno ride I have uses a screw and washers to adjust that last bit of steering/movement on the inside tire.

Here is what Tekno RC had to say about the EB48 and SCT410.3 platforms on RCTech:

"teknorc:

I posted this in the EB thread, but it is 100% applicable to the SCT as well:

Yes, we know people like lots of steering. Our pro drivers tell us this all the time . Something to keep in mind though about steering...

The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.

So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB (SCT410 uses 4 too) and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.

Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure

Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.

Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.


There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).

Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
__________________
Tekno RC
www.teknorc.com "

Picture below is SCT410.3 with steering stop screw:

1713121532320.png



EB48.3 instructions:
1713121820597.png
 

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