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Should I buy an EB48 2.0 or wait for 2.1?

DBELAND

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I will be purchasing a Tekno EB 48 soon - not in any hurry.
I dont know if I should jump on in and find an EB48 2.0 (hard to find) or wait for the 2.1 to be released (anyone know an ETA on the 2.1?) It seems like the 2.0's are out of stock currently?

Im looking to setup my EB for getting into racing at my local indoor track - see here for a video of my local track:

Do you think the specs below will be good for this track?

Tekno RC "M5" Hardened Steel Mod1 Pinion 17T. (I dont know if I should go to 16T or just stick with the 17T?)
Hobbywing Xerun XR8 Pro Brushless ESC
Hobbywing G3 1900kv Motor
MRT Transponder
Steering servo Savox 1258tg
JConcepts Ellipse 1/8th Buggy Tires Gold

I currently have 2S lipo batteries (I will have to wait on spending additional money for 2x 4Ss)
Will the 2S lipo work? What would be the cons to a 2S over a 4S? slower speed and runtime?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Billl DeLong

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
Driving Style
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I recently raced at this track near Birmingham and it's a small track, I would start out with the 16T pinion and check temps, you might do better with a 15T pinion actually.

I would consider the "Semi Aggressive" setup posted here:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/build-review-eb48-2-0.1864/

The Savox 1258 is way too weak of a servo for this track. Here's a much better servo to consider:
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-PDI-HV7232MG-Precision-Aluminium-Structure/dp/B01CU4JQO4

Everything else you've selected looks good... I recommend visiting the track and talk to the local fast guys to make sure they have TEKNO parts, I don't believe there is a on site hobby shop there. If you follow the thread I linked above, I listed important spares to keep on hand.

Good Luck!
 

DBELAND

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Thanks for the advice Bill. I've talked to some of the guys at the track the majority are all Tekno owners for the eBuggy 1/8 class. I will be purchasing spare parts as well from your list.
 

stokedcrf

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Not to throw shade at the EB48 2.0, I'm sure it's pure badass!

However, I was able to pick up a new (barely used) eb48.4 for like 250 bucks....complete with all electronics and motor (tekin rx8 gen3). Every upgrade you could get has already been done...even came with 2 custom airbrushed bodies and 8 sets of tires on rims.

I bought my sct410.3 new but honestly....I sortof regret it. I should have checked with some local racers and picked up a used one! The castle esc for my sct410 cost the same as my entire upgraded eb48.4!

I sortof wished I saved that money and used it on track days! :oops:
 

Billl DeLong

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  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
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Not to throw shade at the EB48 2.0, I'm sure it's pure badass!

However, I was able to pick up a new (barely used) eb48.4 for like 250 bucks....complete with all electronics and motor (tekin rx8 gen3). Every upgrade you could get has already been done...even came with 2 custom airbrushed bodies and 8 sets of tires on rims.

I bought my sct410.3 new but honestly....I sortof regret it. I should have checked with some local racers and picked up a used one! The castle esc for my sct410 cost the same as my entire upgraded eb48.4!

I sortof wished I saved that money and used it on track days! :oops:

I actually agree with this approach for a brand new racer just getting into the hobby... idea being that a new driver can tear up an older chassis and then get a new kit once they've improved their driving skills.

Only 2 concerns with this approach is that getting legacy parts will only be possible from TEKNO directly and will be unlikely to get spares from anyone else on race day. The other concern is a dated platform won't drive as well.

My first chassis was a .3 and it was a noticeable improvement to the .4 just on the ackermann bar alone, I would actually upgrade my SCT with many .4 parts. The shift over to the 2.0 is night and day difference, but honestly a beginner driver probably wouldn't notice much... once your consistency goes above 92%+ then you'll start to see improvements with chassis selection.

That said, there's no right/wrong approach, just go with what works best for you :)
 

EngenZerO

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word on FB group is that kits should be in stock in the next few days on Tekno and at dealers later this week.
 

DBELAND

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I have my EB48 2.0 build completed. I'm currently going through Bill DeLong's list of spare parts to keep on hand. One question...What are A and C blocks?

Also, what would be the best universal screw set to purchase for the eb48 2.0 to have on hand for a quick fix just in case I lose a set screw or other small screw while practicing/racing?
 
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DBELAND

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Thanks for the quick reply Bill !!! On the Screw Lot from eBay - have you ordered from them before? are the screws that are pictured is what you get? There was no description or list?
 

Billl DeLong

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  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
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that vendor is a chop shop... they are including all the screws from TKR9000 which is the kit

I have not bought from this vendor but they are providing exactly what you asked for
 

DBELAND

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I was able to get my new EB48 2.0 out on the track Saturday. I had a lot of fun and cant wait to get back. After a lengthy practice session I was cleaning the car and noticed that the Front Right wheel/rim had cracked a little on the inside edge. I contacted AMain Hobbies to see if the Pro-Line rims had a warranty (I had my doubts, but I went ahead a checked anyway). To my surprise AMain Hobbies is sending me a whole new set of rims free of charge! This got me thinking about further protection of my tires/rims during my learning how to drive and take jumps. The current bumper is very small and doesnt offer any protection to impact. So then I noticed that there are 2 different options for larger bumpers:

1. TBR Basher Front Bumper
https://tboneracing.net/collections.../tbr-basher-front-bumper-tekno-eb48-2-0-00066

2. Large Front Guard
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124263734216

Would you recommend either of these to further protect my car's rims?
 
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  3. MT410
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I was able to get my new EB48 2.0 out on the track Saturday. I had a lot of fun and cant wait to get back. After a lengthy practice session I was cleaning the car and noticed that the Front Right wheel/rim had cracked a little on the inside edge. I contacted AMain Hobbies to see if the Pro-Line rims had a warranty (I had my doubts, but I went ahead a checked anyway). To my surprise AMain Hobbies is sending me a whole new set of rims free of charge! This got me thinking about further protection of my tires/rims during my learning how to drive and take jumps. The current bumper is very small and doesnt offer any protection to impact. So then I noticed that there are 2 different options for larger bumpers:

1. TBR Basher Front Bumper
https://tboneracing.net/collections.../tbr-basher-front-bumper-tekno-eb48-2-0-00066

2. Large Front Guard
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124263734216

Would you recommend either of these to further protect my car's rims?
If I were to pick a bumper, I would go with t-bone.

But bumpers are not ideal for the track. There will be lots of landings where he nose of the body is too low and the bumper will dig into the dirt and flip your buggy.

The alternative is to heat it and bend it as straight (up) as possible, but then the wheels get no protection. There is a reason why we want the wheels to be exposed on a race rig.

I wouldn’t bother personally on a buggy. You’ll quickly become a better driver and improve the way you land jumps.
 

Billl DeLong

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Location
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Tekno RC's
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  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
Driving Style
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+1 for TBR, they offer lifetime warranty too!

For bashing around the bumpers will add durability, but they are around 3mm thick and will remove 3mm of ride height so for a typical 25mm ride height setup you will reduce your performance by 25/22 = 14% loss in jump handling... that means your car will be more likely to bottom out and flip, you'll degrade traction and corner handling on high speed corners.

If peak performance is important, don't run the bumpers.

There are various blends of plastic to where I've found PR Racing wheels to be the most flexible and have never cracked a wheel from PR:
https://shop.thercproshop.com/pr-ra...cing-117/1-8th-buggy-wheel-yellow.html?page=7

https://shop.thercproshop.com/pr-ra...acing-117/1-8th-buggy-wheel-white.html?page=7

Another trick I've found is that you can make the wheels more flexible by boiling the plastic, more info here:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/263362564313380/permalink/737058796943752/
 

RC_User

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I agree with others. if you're practicing racing, you don't want bumpers - they add unnecessary weight. and get get caught in the dirt. if you're slamming into other cars, practice on driving more carefully.

however i agree T-bone is good with their warranty. I snapped a t-bone bumper in half once on a 1/8 truggy and they replaced it, i just dont dig the looks of the t-bone stuff, they don't put much into the style, they are primarily basher protection. but again for track use, i'd pass.

for wheels i'd recommend something solid dish - which again i dont like the looks of as much, but they seem to be the most durable so i think that's why they are the standard style for 1/8. i'd go with a DE speedline or similar. i have a couple set of DE trinidads because i like the style, and last year cracked one. so going forward i will be switching to the dish style.
 

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