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Shock Oil

SHouck

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Does outside temperature affect silicone shock oil. I have purchased PT racing oil 450 550 600 650. I have watched many different Vids and they never explain what High or Cold Outside Temp does to the oil and how to adjust for it. Thanks
 

SHouck

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Let me tell you what happened and see if temperature is what got me flustered. I drove 1hr 1/2 to practice. Set my car on the track and it was all over the place. So I'm completely New to 1/8 scale buggy. I have been absent from RC for 20+ years. I have a eb48.4. I had 550 black Spring in front 450 orange in rear. So with all that being said. I pulled my car and wanted to adjust my ride height. I could drop my car and no matter what I did. The rear could not be adjusted. The front was fine. I ask a few guys at the track about my problem and nobody seemed to think it was temperature. They didn't offer much help. So I picked up and left.
 

Billl DeLong

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It's not clear how you were adjusting your ride height, but shock oil will not effect ride height regardless. Also note that piston holes make a dramatic difference in tuning for pack as well:


 

SHouck

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Now I'm really confused. I hope that someday all this information comes together for me. I'm running the Stock 4 hole piston.
 

SHouck

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When I would drop my car. The rear would go to 19mm or 20. However if you barely lifted the rear it would stay around 27mm. I hope I'm not sounding stupid here. I returned this car to stock and I'm just trying to get a good base setup that my car will perform decent while I learn to adjust it. I run at Rocck Racing in Knoxville Tennessee and Chuckles RaceWay in Cookeville TN. TBH I'm kinda growing frustrated.
 

SHANKxTANK

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Sorrt to hear your getting frustrated. Have you bled the shocks? The EB48.4 uses emulsion shocks meaning air mixes with the oil. Bleed them before you run longer than 5 minutes or so. The car can act a but wonky if you dont bleed them once in a while. Bleed the shocks then set right height with spring preload collar.
 

Billl DeLong

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When I would drop my car. The rear would go to 19mm or 20. However if you barely lifted the rear it would stay around 27mm. I hope I'm not sounding stupid here. I returned this car to stock and I'm just trying to get a good base setup that my car will perform decent while I learn to adjust it. I run at Rocck Racing in Knoxville Tennessee and Chuckles RaceWay in Cookeville TN. TBH I'm kinda growing frustrated.

You've given a little more information which helps me understand your problem a little more clearly. I would remove the shocks and verify that your arms have smooth movement without any binding, it's possible that you might have either a bent suspension arm pin or a bent shock shaft. I was making the assumption that the car was in perfect running order, but if you have a failed part that needs to be replaced, then I can certainly understand your frustration!

Anyway, I hope this helps you get in the right direction.... sometimes you can't really tell if you have a bent pin/shaft without removing all of them and then rolling them on a flat surface, all it takes is just a slight amount of wobble to drastically effect the handling of your car :(
 

SHouck

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Before running the car. I installed New Nitride shock shaft. I watched every Tekno vid 100 times before rebuilding and putting new oil in. I tried my best to do things like Mr Lutz and Mr Tebo. The shafts were free. However when the piston was at the bottom there was a rough spot. Even when I would turn the around with my finger it would get tight. Tonight I ordered a Tekno Shock Pliers and a Rpm shock gauge. My hopes are that I can find a set up that will be something I can build on without getting confused. The folks I ask the more I get confused. I haven't met to many people around my parts who are willing to help me out. That's why I found this forum. After buying everything I have my budget is gone. Lol It's no wander that not many get into RC racing. It is truly too expensive for me. My Single Father Wallet is not Fat by any means.
 

Billl DeLong

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Something isn't right if you are getting any binding, are you using the conical shape pistons?

Any chance you may have installed the pistons upside down?

One trick I like to do if I have fresh oil in the shocks is pour it into a dixie cup so I can re-use the oil after rebuilding a shock to check for a bent shaft, etc.
 

SHANKxTANK

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I had a similar problem with the rear shocks 120hzon a RC10B4.1. The rear shocks had a tight spot at the bottom of the stroke like it would stick slightly. I emptied and cleaned the shock and cleaned the orings and reassembled and it was much better but still did it just not as bad. You could follow Bills advice amd clean everything check for bent shafts. Roll the piston on a flat surface and see it it rolls smooth. Wish I could be more help. May have to get new piston set. Iv also seen ppl distort the bottom of the shock body by sqeezing them too hard with pliers. Sorry ao long winded. Let us know what you find. Good luck.
 

Mojoz

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First off Welcome to the forum and don't get to frustrated your driving a great buggy and this forum has very Knowledgeable and helpful group group of people. So if you have questions and Bill responds pay attention he has helped me numerous times and he has a great blog as well. So with that being said anything I would say might just confuse you. and I'm suprised the people at your local tracks haven't been more helpful. So other then getting eyes on your buggy Mr. DeLong will still give sound advise and point you in the right direction, Thanks Bill I appreciate your efforts sharing your knowledge and trying to make this a more enjoyable hobby.
 

Billl DeLong

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Note that a duplicate thread was created over here:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/eb48-4-ride-height.1711/

SHouck said:
Ok so I rebuilt both rear shocks. I could see no issues with either. No bent shafts and O-rings are all in Great shape. However when I drop the car to check Ride Height it's Different every time. Is this a issue or common.
I don't care for the drop method to set ride height, this can lead to inconsistencies if you are not dropping from the same height/angle etc... especially if you have too much pack, your chassis may not bottom out when dropping the car. I find it best to press the chassis flat and let the springs rebound once to get my readings, this tends to be more consistent. It's also very important to make sure there is absolutely no binding anywhere in the links too. Sometimes you need to pinch the ball links with pliers like this to get the plastic perfectly round:

 

TBuggy

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I agree with Bill I think you are going about testing your ride height in a way that is giving you the inconsistent results.

If checking ride height before you have ran the car that day, (if running an emulsion setup) I make sure to compress each shock about 20 times. This gets the oil and air in the shock bodies emulsified similarly to the way they would be when running them on the track, that way when you test the ride height it will be close to the same as it will be after running.

After checking that everything is freed up like mentioned already set the car down when RTR (this means battery and body installed as well) and then just press the car down until it bottoms out, let it go and let it spring up on its own.

Another thing if the rear end is way to bouncy you can try Yellow LF springs in the rear which are one step softer and will allow the shocks to decompress slower, possibly resulting in less rear end bouncing.
 

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