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48.3 Racing setup question

lampshade9909

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  2. ET48
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Hello,

Noobie to setups here. Help me consider some setup adjustments to get better control of my Truggy on throttle during corners. See images below. There are two spots highlighted in yellow where the fast guys land on the down ramp after the double then immediately roll on the throttle and accelerate away. I'm having trouble doing the same. Sometimes I get it, sometimes I lose traction and either spin out or have to slow down to regain traction. My backend feels lose when I apply throttle in this scenario. It's awkward because the slight corner is immediately after the double and the track is typically a little loose there in both spots.

IMG_5762.jpg

IMG_5763.jpg


Referring to this setup guide found on these forums, it seems good options for me are to adjust my front and/or rear sway bars. Is it common for you guys to make sway bar adjustments for races? Do you keep a couple of different size sway bars in your toolbox for situations like this?

Another option is to lower my center diff fluid. I'm currently using 20k. I could lower it to the stock 10k. Does it sound like I should do that and try again before adjusting the sway bar? Or should I consider both adjustments? I like the power I get from the 20k weight, but that could totally be causing me to spin out under throttle right?
 

PrimaRC

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20k sounds high in the rear, but it depends on what you're running on the center and front.

Sway bars are a good option to try, you can even just try removing the rear sway bar as a test to see if you gain traction.

Changing your camber can have a big effect on your traction and steer in/out, it's an easy change to make without buying anything. Less negative toe will make the car a little less aggressive.

Not having enough front toe out can make the car rotate too quickly on power, on the exit of the corners.
 
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Matthew_Armeni

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10k is pretty light for truggy, 15k is personally the lowest I would go unless the entire track was super loose everywhere.
The front toe like PrimaRC mentioned is a super fast trackside adjustment we do all the time, same with camber. A quarter of a turn on the turnbuckle can have a dramatic effect on the handling of the vehicle.
One thing you might check is your rear uptravel. Push the truck down all the way so that the chassis is flat on the ground and try to lift up a rear tire. If it comes up off of the ground it might be hurting the handling. This usually a problem when you land a jump into a turn. What can happen is during a landing the tires continue moving up after the chassis hits the ground and are not in contact with the track anymore, zero rear traction. The chassis will just slide across the ground.

To limit the uptravel use some orings on the shock shaft inside the shock boot. 1-2 orings should be all you'll need.

Another thing to try for more rear traction on power is more anti-squat. Try lowering your D pill (or raising the C pill).
 

lampshade9909

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  2. ET48
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20k sounds high in the rear, but it depends on afar you're running on the center and front.

Sway bars are a good option to try, you can even just try removing the rear seat bar as a test to see if you gain traction.

Changing your camber can have a big effect on your traction and steer in/out, it's an easy change to make without buying anything. Less negative toe will make the car a little less aggressive.

Not having enough front toe out can make the car rotate too quickly on power, on the exit of the corners.
My setup for that race was 15/20/7 (F/C/R), so the center was the 20k

I like your ideas. I will definitely try them out to see what I find.
 

lampshade9909

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10k is pretty light for truggy, 15k is personally the lowest I would go unless the entire track was super loose everywhere.
The front toe like PrimaRC mentioned is a super fast trackside adjustment we do all the time, same with camber. A quarter of a turn on the turnbuckle can have a dramatic effect on the handling of the vehicle.
One thing you might check is your rear uptravel. Push the truck down all the way so that the chassis is flat on the ground and try to lift up a rear tire. If it comes up off of the ground it might be hurting the handling. This usually a problem when you land a jump into a turn. What can happen is during a landing the tires continue moving up after the chassis hits the ground and are not in contact with the track anymore, zero rear traction. The chassis will just slide across the ground.

To limit the uptravel use some orings on the shock shaft inside the shock boot. 1-2 orings should be all you'll need.

Another thing to try for more rear traction on power is more anti-squat. Try lowering your D pill (or raising the C pill).
Good to know. Will take this into consideration. The entire track was not loose, there were some grooves. I’m not the best driver so it’s harder for me to stay in a narrow groove. But my main problem areas are the highlighted ones.

Will try some toe and camber adjustments next Time I’m at the track
 

lampshade9909

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On the setup sheet I linked above, they have Camber and Toe an order of importance as a 6/7/8 for most cases. I was under the impression that 1 was the most important. Did I get that backward? Maybe the higher the number the more important? Regardless, those things can be tweaked without buying a part which is great.
 

PrimaRC

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The more I thought about this today, I started to think about the reason you may have been breaking traction into those corners after the jumps is, because as Matt said above. When you jump and then land with steering angle applied you can hope the rear around very easily. If your car is bouncing at all on the landing this will happen every time you land with some steering lock and it will often bounce and rotate even if you land with the wheels straight depending on the surface.

I think you would be best to try what Matt said first and then adjust the other things one at a time. It's not a good idea to make multiple changes at once as you'll never know what made the difference.
 

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