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Outer differential shims tip

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WoodiE

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Installing the differential in the housings with a shim on each side can be a bit of a challenge. The shims are thin and have nothing to keep them in place while you install the differential and it is easy to bend a shim or miss getting it in the housing if you're not careful.

To make the install much easier, cut a .5mm x 30-40 degree chamfer on the inside of each of the four corners of the bearing lip on each differential housing halve. This allows you a bit of assistance in getting the diff installed without damaging the shims.

Chamfer-Diff-Shims.jpg
 
Interesting tip. I've never had any kind of real issue, I just put it together very slowly and carefully. Sometimes the shim will jump out and I'll have to start over though but it's never taken me more than a few times to get it together.
I still am sad to see that Teknko has not gone to the quick access diffs like many of the other brands though. I had em on an AE truggy and they're super nice...
 
Interesting tip. I've never had any kind of real issue, I just put it together very slowly and carefully. Sometimes the shim will jump out and I'll have to start over though but it's never taken me more than a few times to get it together.
I still am sad to see that Teknko has not gone to the quick access diffs like many of the other brands though. I had em on an AE truggy and they're super nice...
I am putting together my MT410 and noticed that the diffs aren't quick access right away. I'm used to Arrma which is like 4 screws to access front and rear diffs and like 9 screws to get out the center diff. It kind of sucks that they aren't quick access but hopefully they don't need servicing that much.
 
I bent the included shims in my MT410 during installation, (my fault) I wish I had seen this tip before
 
I am putting together my MT410 and noticed that the diffs aren't quick access right away. I'm used to Arrma which is like 4 screws to access front and rear diffs and like 9 screws to get out the center diff. It kind of sucks that they aren't quick access but hopefully they don't need servicing that much.

I hear you, my ex AE truggy, it's just 4 screws on the diff top plate and the center diff is out (Copy of the Mugen design), and 4 for each front/rear too. I definitely miss how easy it was to work on that rig.

For my pure basher MTs, and because they aren't quick-access I am actually just running grease in the front and rear, that way they can't leak. It annoys me when diffs leak and it's been my experience that they ALL do eventually, drives me nuts. For just bashing around I have no need to tune the diffs with fluid. I do have 500k in the center though, I like a good balance where I can wheelie but not so much that it wants to immediately flip over like it's locked.
 
Also didn't have any issue but did it with much care

That's a very nice vidéo about shimming Diffs

 
Thankyou for this information! I also damaged a shim on my build, got it sorted in the end though. Very little that can be done to improve these vehicles really but this is handy
 
I have to wonder why they don't chamfer the mold in the first place???
 
I hear you, my ex AE truggy, it's just 4 screws on the diff top plate and the center diff is out (Copy of the Mugen design), and 4 for each front/rear too. I definitely miss how easy it was to work on that rig.

For my pure basher MTs, and because they aren't quick-access I am actually just running grease in the front and rear, that way they can't leak. It annoys me when diffs leak and it's been my experience that they ALL do eventually, drives me nuts. For just bashing around I have no need to tune the diffs with fluid. I do have 500k in the center though, I like a good balance where I can wheelie but not so much that it wants to immediately flip over like it's locked.
Luckily both my eb48.4 and sct410.3 didn't need shims
 

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