Outcast vs. MT410 - how much less would I break it?

[mikemikemike]

TL;DR - how much less would I break a MT410 vs. an Outcast, all else being equal?

For my first RC car, I got an Arrma Outcast 6s - was interested in an MT410 but sticker shock and not being sure about building it myself out of the gate sent me to the Arrma.

I have found that about 2/3 of my sessions end with some part failure that puts the truck out of commission, plus there are nagging issues that I know will need attention for example a bent shock tower. Mostly minor thus far, (see my mini-chronicle on the Arrma forum here) and I don't mind doing the wrenching, but waiting for parts is a drag for me, and my wrenching:running ratio is quite a bit higher than my ideal.

I'm a ham-handed and decidedly un-subtle novice driver, blessed with ample rough terrain, love to mach around and smash over and through things, and am learning to jump the hard way (for the car anyhow). I'm not all that interested in backing off the aggressiveness of driving, although I do hope to reduce the operator error somewhat over time. So, I get that I'll do damage, and take responsibility for it. But it seems there are so many known weak points on this car (how many shock ends have I busted?!) and it's getting tiring.

The question is: if I built at MT410 with bomber parts, how much less would you all (admittedly biased group) guess I'd be out of commission? Maybe some of you with Outcast vs. MT410 experience might weigh in?

I'm assuming based on what I see online that the MT410 is actually a tank - I do see that there are known issues even with this rig as top of the line as it may be.

 

[Nicochau]

Hi there,

Sorry, i have neither Arrma nor MT410 experience... ? but I have bashed (and continue to do so) EB48.2, .4 and ET48.3 (with and without m2c goodies).
My EB48.2 basher has everything of the MT410 but the buggy arm size (which should make it more durable). I also bash-race (at the park) every week with friends so have quickly went through many configurations and learnings.

My quick answer is: there is no such thing as a bullet proof RC and tanks drive like poop.

The only way to enjoy a long driving session is to bring multiple rigs. I usually bring 3 to go through 6 packs. Rarely, I brake all 3 or have all 3 running by the end of the session. First thing I would do is keep the Arrma too.

The MT410 has racing DNA. My recommendation is to respect that and enjoy it for what it is. It will break, like everything else. But it will for and foremost drive awesome. Get the must-have upgrades (metal servo horn and possibly the metal shock caps). Keep the tires as light as possible. Don’t get too crazy on adding metal & braces. Try it first and see what breaks. If you’re hard on it consider replacing parts with m2c equivalents. Don’t forget that chassis flex makes for awesome driving and weight is your enemy. You’ll brace and strengthen the rig as per your needs. Consider T-Bone Racing bumpers and a proline bash armor body. Run it on 4s.

Teknos are as good as it gets. But they have their limits too. I’m pretty sure you’ll dig yours.

if you keep it light, I would expect it to be more durable than the Arrma. Weight is liability.

 

[Mojoz]

Ok here is my simple analogy when you buy something that some teenage kid built that has no clue of what he is building(RTR) they will inherently break and as you spend countless hrs fixing them they get dialed in as well you begin driving better because fixing them more than driving sucks. With all that being said I can say I don't know how tekno does it and can compete on the track but they don't easily break. I use to head out with 5 cars and a dozen batteries and rarely would I come back home with 12 dead batteries prior to getting a Tekno. Let start by saying I don't work for tekno or get anything free or what not and built my first of now 3 teknos a year and a half ago after the owner handed me my broken kyosho at my local track( a genuine nice guy IMO) So when I bought my eb48.4 I purchased it for racing and have taken bigger crashes on the track( impacts) then I have just bashing and that includes my 20 or 30 foot high triple backflips sending it adventures. So the simple answer is Tekno builds tanks that track worthy there plastics don't fail there drivetrain is incredible IMO the only time I had a diff fail was right after servicing and I probably put it back together wrong. I now Have an eb48.4, et48.3 and the sct and never come home with batteries still charged and rarely is there anything that has put any of my teknos out of commission. I don't have the MT yet but I can say there is only a couple of weaknesses. The sct needs an upgraded A block to aluminum and the Truggy will take out your spur gear from chassis flex which for racing IMO is what makes it drive as incredible on the track as it does so I went to the metal spur gear otherwise I drive everything completely stock out of the box and I find that even when bashing I end up driving them more because of how much better they drive then because the countless other cars I have are break. If I could do it all over again I would have a stable of nothing but Tekno and I wouldn't have the 20 plus other cars I have and the amount of spare parts would easily compensate for the expense especialy since so many of them share the same platform. So I hope my lengthy post is helpful to anybody considering if the cost is worth it or not because as you can see I'm drinking the Tekno cool aide and have met a few of the employees and the company is truly unique they love rc and actually follow their business plan and that is rare in todays market and that starts from the top down so as a RC enthusiatst Thank You Tekno!!!!! ( Hey maybe you guys could come out with a road car because I for one will be the first inline to buy it)

 

[mikemikemike]

Great responses, thank you!

I'll spend some more time on this forum for basic questions, but curious why 4s vs. 6s - can it be that much lighter?

 

[pconcemi]

The MT410 is really light especially in it's stock configuration that is why a lot of people run it on 4s. I have added some beef and I like the full size Backflip and Copperhead2 tires so I mostly run on 6s but it can be a bit of a handful, tons of power but still has great handling. Like the others have said, things will break especially if you push it hard but the MT410 is very durable. The build is a great experience because you know everything about the truck and you get to pick the electronics you want versus upgrading from subpar RTR components.

I also own the 6s Kraton that has been heavily upgraded, and yes it is heavy but still super fast and fun. Shock rod ends break especially if your droop is out of adjustment but I noticed the HD shod rod ends for the Arrma Nero last longer. I just consider them expendables and they are easy and quick to fix. I would rather the rod end go then bend the shock shaft.

 

[tetsuo]

I also own the 6s Kraton that has been heavily upgraded, and yes it is heavy but still super fast and fun.

Not to hijack the thread, but how would you compare the Kraton 6s and MT410? I have a Rival MT10 for the kids to bash with and my MT410 for me, but as my sons have gotten more adept at the controls, they definitely prefer the larger/smoother vehicle traits of the tekno. I was thinking I'd sell the Rival and put the money toward a second-hand Kraton 6S if I can find the right one.

 

[pconcemi]

@tetsuo I have a lot of fun with the Kraton but it is very different to drive vs my MT. It is fast and will climb and launch off of anything but it is no where near as agile as the MT. I also have the 4s Outcast and I feel that the 4s line for Arrma is the most cost effective. The stock radio's and servos are total trash but after that they are super fast and can take a beating. Most parts are supper cheap and easy to get (all things being equal in the current state of things). If you do get a 6s Kraton for your sons and keep it at 4s it should be very reliable for them. The one must have upgrade for it would be upgrading the chassis braces from the stock plastic ones to some quality aluminum ones from either M2C Racing or Voltage Hobbies.

 

[BashingBrian]

Long story short... It will still break and bend just as much..?
I own plenty of Arrma's and a MT410 so I think I can comment both.
My advice is stick with the Arrma and learn to jump and drive better, try to land on your wheels..???

 

[mikemikemike]

Yes, it is more fun to land on my wheels - I'm probably up from 30% to 70% sticking my landings now on a good day, and several sessions without damage. I still think I'll get a Tekno if I get another rig, but doesn't seem like that's an option w supply chains being as they are right now anyhow...

 

[Kronuxx]

Although I don't have a Kraton, Outcast, or MT410 I do have an Arrma Typhon 6s and a Tekno SCT410.3. My recommendation would be is to keep your arrma vehicle to learn on, then use what learn when driving your MT410, if you do decide to get it. Problem with RTR vehicles, is that since they are mass produced, they are also on an assembly line when being put together. Sure there is quality control, but often QA missing quite a few things. Arrma vehicles tend to have a lot of slop both in steering and in their wheels. I don't know about the Outcast, but I know the Typhon uses bushings for the steering linkage. Don't get me wrong, Arrma vehicles are good for bashing but their control is poor, and the only reason why they are decent in bashing is because they have over beefed up components. Drive shafts are thick and heavy, chassis isn't lightened all, just a slab of aluminum, that is heavy. That all comes at a cost though, and that is weight. Not to mention, almost all their aluminum is stamped and not machined from a block.

The only RTR basher vehicle I would have recommended to you, if you are averse to building would have been the Thunder Tiger Bushmaster. Extremely well built right out of the box. All their aluminum pieces are cnc machined, they use bearings in their steering linkage, the plastics are durable (the arms that is), the chassis is 7075 cnc machined and lightened. It's differentials hold more fluid than Arrma's. It's just a shame it didn't get the same support as the Arrma vehicles in terms of upgrades.

Anyway, I digress. In short, I'd go with Tekno. They are durable and they drive like a dream. If you don't care about handling (which ultimately affects your bashing) then use Arrma.