New Tekno ET48.3, getting ready to order everything

[RoadWarrior]

So far I have these parts in my cart. I looked at the recommended upgrade and added what was available on the site.

Tekno RC TKR5602 – ET48.3 1/8th Competition Electric Truggy Kit

TKR5115 – Spur Gear (44T, hardened steel, lightened)

Castle Creations Monster X 1/8 Brushless Combo w/1515 Sensored Motor (2200kV)

Tekno RC Aluminum Single Sided Clamping Servo Horn

I would appreciate feedback regarding the ESC and motor combo. I think this is a good fit but no one to ask.

 

[Billl DeLong]

Yes that motor will work nicely.

have you already selected a radio, battery and charger too?

some brands to consider here:
Which electronics are best?

 

[Nicochau]

I am personally not a fan of metal spur. I have seen a spur being trashed during a crash and wouldn’t want it to be metal and have the power transmitted to outdrives or axles. A $3 weak point to protect the driveline sounds about perfect. Especially considering the fact that when meshed properly, they last forever.

The Castle combo on the other hand is very solid choice. The ET48.3 is a fantastic machine that deserves a quality combo and I personally like to race-bash sensored.

Before everyone starts promoting the M2C upgrades, I’ll say that chassis braces are probably the most controversial upgrade out there. They increase weight and remove flex, when flex is actually very needed for handling and traction. To each his preference, I do however run the m2c rear tower brace v3 because it is a small addition to fix a traditional weakness in RC.

 

[Sludog]

So far I have these parts in my cart. I looked at the recommended upgrade and added what was available on the site.

Tekno RC TKR5602 – ET48.3 1/8th Competition Electric Truggy Kit

TKR5115 – Spur Gear (44T, hardened steel, lightened)

Castle Creations Monster X 1/8 Brushless Combo w/1515 Sensored Motor (2200kV)

Tekno RC Aluminum Single Sided Clamping Servo Horn

I would appreciate feedback regarding the ESC and motor combo. I think this is a good fit but no one to ask.

If

I am personally not a fan of metal spur. I have seen a spur being trashed during a crash and wouldn’t want it to be metal and have the power transmitted to outdrives or axles. A $3 weak point to protect the driveline sounds about perfect. Especially considering the fact that when meshed properly, they last forever.

The Castle combo on the other hand is very solid choice. The ET48.3 is a fantastic machine that deserves a quality combo and I personally like to race-bash sensored.

Before everyone starts promoting the M2C upgrades, I’ll say that chassis braces are probably the most controversial upgrade out there. They increase weight and remove flex, when flex is actually very needed for handling and traction. To each his preference, I do however run the m2c rear tower brace v3 because it is a small addition to fix a traditional weakness in RC.

Also the added noise on the metal spur. These plastic spurs are not like to old plastic Tamiya ones the strip out easily. The Tekno spur is heavy duty hardened plastic. If the gear mesh is good the spur will last a long time.

 

[Ifti]

Ive yet to have a plastic spur fail on me to be honest. I'd be completely happy sticking with plastic. As mentioned above, I'd rather swap out a cheap spur then have to swap out several other parts instead.......

 

[TBuggy]

Ive yet to have a plastic spur fail on me to be honest. I'd be completely happy sticking with plastic. As mentioned above, I'd rather swap out a cheap spur then have to swap out several other parts instead.......

The only plastic spur that has failed me was the very first one and that was because I did not set the mesh correctly. After that I figured the correct mesh and have never had a spur fail, even ones that rocks got jammed into!

Had one that a tiny little rock got jammed underneath the spur and it ground out a groove all the way around the gear. The gear was noticibly louder but I continued to run it without an issue until my new came.

Your pinion gears will last forever if you only use plastic spurs. With a metal spur it will eventually wear down your pinion so it will need replacing.

 

[RoadWarrior]

Thanks for the comments. I need to order everything, Radio, servo, batteries, charger. Starting from scratch and there is so much stuff out there it is hard to know what works really well. Can't go to a hobby store to ask anyone so this forum is very helpful.

 

[Sludog]

Thanks for the comments. I need to order everything, Radio, servo, batteries, charger. Starting from scratch and there is so much stuff out there it is hard to know what works really well. Can't go to a hobby store to ask anyone so this forum is very helpful.

I have Futaba T4PM radio and use R304SB-E receivers and its works great. That radio is mid range and run $230 for radio and $299 for radio an receiver. You can save some with the Futaba 3PV which is also a great radio with a few less options and adjustments that you may never miss. That runs about $150 radio and $200 radio and receiver. You can use Tower hobbies and Amain discounts on these though cutting the costs. Also lots of great deals on eBay too.
Spektrum radios are also another solid choice and a little less expensive.

For battery and charger I just got the Spektrum smart batteries and charger system and really like it. Just plug and push start charging is nice for new hobby people (great for my 8 year old son too) but the best feature is the auto storage mode you can program which will help extend battery life. the charger is a little pricey but the battery prices are on par with most name brands.
Another solid choice is the Venom pro duo charger $110 and Venom batteries. I owned this charger until about a month ago when I bundled it with a car I sold.

 

[Nicochau]

Thanks for the comments. I need to order everything, Radio, servo, batteries, charger. Starting from scratch and there is so much stuff out there it is hard to know what works really well. Can't go to a hobby store to ask anyone so this forum is very helpful.

I’m assuming you’ll be mainly bashing this truggy, right? Let us know your usage so we can steer you in the right direction.

Also, I would suggest to still treat it for what it is: a race rig. That’s how it is going to perform best. Go for Truggy racing tires, 4s battery and a reasonably quick servo. Run your combo sensored.

As for the servo, alternative brands are all hit or miss. I personally have had great luck with Savox. Getting a 2273 with brushless motor is a good way to buy once and never (at least a couple of years...) think about it anymore. That’s a $100 servo and is very reasonably priced. Many racers would go $150 to $160 top of the line servos. You can also cheap out and dig a good find in the $60 / $70 range. Not worth it if you ask me, especially considering the fact that this seems to be a comeback to the hobby for you.

Same comment on the radio, you’re getting a Tekno and obviously treating yourself. Get a quality radio on day one. The entry range Sanwa or Futaba are both great, give you the right performance and japanese quality level. My personal favorite is the Sanwa MT-S (over the Futaba 3PV) with 482 receiver (internal antenna = no tube to bother with!). That’s a $200 bundle. More radio is going to be more features, but I have never cared for it personally (things like telemetry...). Others can chime in.

Yeah, this is going to be fun! Don’t forget tools for your build: hex drives 1.5/2/2.5 mm. Hex wrenches. shock pliers.

 

[RoadWarrior]

I thought this truck would be good for bashing based on videos and reviews but was also good enough to take to the track. I plan on club racing and bashing. I think it is durable enough to do both.
Just looking at tires. What does it mean when it say 1/2 offset versus zero offset?

 

[Nicochau]

It’s great for racing and good for bashing too. It one of the best truggies out there.

Race wheels are zero offset. Monster truck wheels tend to have 1/2 inch offset.

 

[TBuggy]

The offset that is being referred to is how much further they stick out from the hubs.