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New guy. Just ordered the MT410

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Kur

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Just introducing myself and asking all the usual noob questions.

Backstory: Had a Revo since they were first released. Over time I upgraded from the 2.5 nitro to the 3.3, to a .21, to a big block .28, and all the while I continually stripped diff gears at an alarming rate. So much so that I got tired of replacing them and put the Revo away for a few years. Then the E-Revo came out and I was told that Traxxas updated their diffs and made them stronger, so I did a full E-Revo conversion, swapping what I could and buying what I needed. I powered it with an old school Hobbywing 2200kv sensored motor and 150amp ESC (in that weird metallic sky blue color). Tons of power. The diffs never stood a chance. After stripping the 25th diff in as many minutes of run time, I put the Revo away again. That was 5 years ago. I'm not exaggerating when I say that I put easily 1500 diff sets through my Revo in the 15 or so years I've been running it. I love everything about Revo, but those weak diffs just became a massive deal breaker to me.

Now I'm getting back into the hobby. I can't bring myself to put even one more set of diffs into my Revo, but I've got so much time and money into it that I feel like I need to salvage what I can. At first I thought about converting to the newer Revo 2.0, but it seems that is not an easy or cheap conversion, and I am getting a lot of conflicting reports about the durability of the new, larger, diff gears. So my plan is to pull out the electronics, which are all still good (only about 20 minutes of run time on them after all) and use them in a builder's kit. After a few weeks of research I've settled on the MT410. Not only is it one of only a very few MT kits on the market that isn't RTR, it seems to be one of the toughest and better engineered kits as well. So cool for me I guess. Up till now my only experience with Tekno has been some A-arms I got for my Revo probably 10 years ago and they never failed, so good for you Tekno.

Current Story: After much internal debate and self convincing, I just placed the order for the MT410 kit about 10 minutes ago. Along with the kit I also ordered:
1. Steel spur gear
2. 15t pinion
3. aluminum shock caps and shock cartridge caps
4. and 3 steel diff cases.. because of my Revo PTSD.

I know I need an aluminum servo horn. Pretty sure I've got one lying around somewhere. And I've still got 3 or 4 sets of tires from the Revo that should work for the MT410. I'm planning on running 4s, unless somebody can convince me that 3, 5, or 6s would be better.

My question now is, what else should I look out for? I know M2C makes a bunch of bracing stuff, but to be honest I am not sure what parts to get and what parts go with which other parts, or how necessary any of it is at the moment. I am also interested in the extended chassis options, but I am unsure if all the MT stuff just bolts onto the ET truggy chassis that easily or not? I also want to wait and see how the shorter MT chassis handles before I commit to that. Is the M2C wide body chassis that much of an upgrade over the stock chassis?

I'm also seeing a lot of love for the T-bone bumpers, but when I looked into them they look like they are VERY thin and flimsy to me? Are they really that tough?

At the end of the day my goal is to make this thing as bullet proof as possible. I love upgrading but I hate fixing/replacing broken parts. I had my Revo to the point where it did not break anymore with the diffs being the only exception. I'm hoping I can get this MT to a similar level of durability, except without all the diff issues.

Thanks for taking the time to read my rambling. Looking forward to the responses.
 
Just introducing myself and asking all the usual noob questions.

Backstory: Had a Revo since they were first released. Over time I upgraded from the 2.5 nitro to the 3.3, to a .21, to a big block .28, and all the while I continually stripped diff gears at an alarming rate. So much so that I got tired of replacing them and put the Revo away for a few years. Then the E-Revo came out and I was told that Traxxas updated their diffs and made them stronger, so I did a full E-Revo conversion, swapping what I could and buying what I needed. I powered it with an old school Hobbywing 2200kv sensored motor and 150amp ESC (in that weird metallic sky blue color). Tons of power. The diffs never stood a chance. After stripping the 25th diff in as many minutes of run time, I put the Revo away again. That was 5 years ago. I'm not exaggerating when I say that I put easily 1500 diff sets through my Revo in the 15 or so years I've been running it. I love everything about Revo, but those weak diffs just became a massive deal breaker to me.

Now I'm getting back into the hobby. I can't bring myself to put even one more set of diffs into my Revo, but I've got so much time and money into it that I feel like I need to salvage what I can. At first I thought about converting to the newer Revo 2.0, but it seems that is not an easy or cheap conversion, and I am getting a lot of conflicting reports about the durability of the new, larger, diff gears. So my plan is to pull out the electronics, which are all still good (only about 20 minutes of run time on them after all) and use them in a builder's kit. After a few weeks of research I've settled on the MT410. Not only is it one of only a very few MT kits on the market that isn't RTR, it seems to be one of the toughest and better engineered kits as well. So cool for me I guess. Up till now my only experience with Tekno has been some A-arms I got for my Revo probably 10 years ago and they never failed, so good for you Tekno.

Current Story: After much internal debate and self convincing, I just placed the order for the MT410 kit about 10 minutes ago. Along with the kit I also ordered:
1. Steel spur gear
2. 15t pinion
3. aluminum shock caps and shock cartridge caps
4. and 3 steel diff cases.. because of my Revo PTSD.

I know I need an aluminum servo horn. Pretty sure I've got one lying around somewhere. And I've still got 3 or 4 sets of tires from the Revo that should work for the MT410. I'm planning on running 4s, unless somebody can convince me that 3, 5, or 6s would be better.

My question now is, what else should I look out for? I know M2C makes a bunch of bracing stuff, but to be honest I am not sure what parts to get and what parts go with which other parts, or how necessary any of it is at the moment. I am also interested in the extended chassis options, but I am unsure if all the MT stuff just bolts onto the ET truggy chassis that easily or not? I also want to wait and see how the shorter MT chassis handles before I commit to that. Is the M2C wide body chassis that much of an upgrade over the stock chassis?

I'm also seeing a lot of love for the T-bone bumpers, but when I looked into them they look like they are VERY thin and flimsy to me? Are they really that tough?

At the end of the day my goal is to make this thing as bullet proof as possible. I love upgrading but I hate fixing/replacing broken parts. I had my Revo to the point where it did not break anymore with the diffs being the only exception. I'm hoping I can get this MT to a similar level of durability, except without all the diff issues.

Thanks for taking the time to read my rambling. Looking forward
Welcome

you will not be disappointed with Tekno they have the best build quality out there

Also there are lots of folks here with lots of experience and knowledge I am always learning something new

I have a Erevo and Summit so I feel your pain on that end ?

Tbone does have some of the best bumpers they are a must with a basher along with metal shock caps you already have

I would just build, bash, and enjoy at this point. I got 3 teknos in the last 12 months and have broke little to nothingon all of them and that’s bone stock. Unlike my 4 traxxas rigs ?
 
Just introducing myself and asking all the usual noob questions.

Backstory: Had a Revo since they were first released. Over time I upgraded from the 2.5 nitro to the 3.3, to a .21, to a big block .28, and all the while I continually stripped diff gears at an alarming rate. So much so that I got tired of replacing them and put the Revo away for a few years. Then the E-Revo came out and I was told that Traxxas updated their diffs and made them stronger, so I did a full E-Revo conversion, swapping what I could and buying what I needed. I powered it with an old school Hobbywing 2200kv sensored motor and 150amp ESC (in that weird metallic sky blue color). Tons of power. The diffs never stood a chance. After stripping the 25th diff in as many minutes of run time, I put the Revo away again. That was 5 years ago. I'm not exaggerating when I say that I put easily 1500 diff sets through my Revo in the 15 or so years I've been running it. I love everything about Revo, but those weak diffs just became a massive deal breaker to me.

Now I'm getting back into the hobby. I can't bring myself to put even one more set of diffs into my Revo, but I've got so much time and money into it that I feel like I need to salvage what I can. At first I thought about converting to the newer Revo 2.0, but it seems that is not an easy or cheap conversion, and I am getting a lot of conflicting reports about the durability of the new, larger, diff gears. So my plan is to pull out the electronics, which are all still good (only about 20 minutes of run time on them after all) and use them in a builder's kit. After a few weeks of research I've settled on the MT410. Not only is it one of only a very few MT kits on the market that isn't RTR, it seems to be one of the toughest and better engineered kits as well. So cool for me I guess. Up till now my only experience with Tekno has been some A-arms I got for my Revo probably 10 years ago and they never failed, so good for you Tekno.

Current Story: After much internal debate and self convincing, I just placed the order for the MT410 kit about 10 minutes ago. Along with the kit I also ordered:
1. Steel spur gear
2. 15t pinion
3. aluminum shock caps and shock cartridge caps
4. and 3 steel diff cases.. because of my Revo PTSD.

I know I need an aluminum servo horn. Pretty sure I've got one lying around somewhere. And I've still got 3 or 4 sets of tires from the Revo that should work for the MT410. I'm planning on running 4s, unless somebody can convince me that 3, 5, or 6s would be better.

My question now is, what else should I look out for? I know M2C makes a bunch of bracing stuff, but to be honest I am not sure what parts to get and what parts go with which other parts, or how necessary any of it is at the moment. I am also interested in the extended chassis options, but I am unsure if all the MT stuff just bolts onto the ET truggy chassis that easily or not? I also want to wait and see how the shorter MT chassis handles before I commit to that. Is the M2C wide body chassis that much of an upgrade over the stock chassis?

I'm also seeing a lot of love for the T-bone bumpers, but when I looked into them they look like they are VERY thin and flimsy to me? Are they really that tough?

At the end of the day my goal is to make this thing as bullet proof as possible. I love upgrading but I hate fixing/replacing broken parts. I had my Revo to the point where it did not break anymore with the diffs being the only exception. I'm hoping I can get this MT to a similar level of durability, except without all the diff issues.

Thanks for taking the time to read my rambling. Looking forward to the responses.
Nice intro, and definitely not the first nor last RTR runaway in the forum. As a matter of fact, we probably all started there.

Regards to M2C braces, it all depends how high you jump your truck. If big jumps is your thing, you’ll need to brace the chassis to protect the driveline. Otherwise, better keep it light and with chassis flex, it will handle better this way. Happy to help with part numbers once you are set on the chassis.

Regards to T-Bone bumpers, they are great. You need to take the basher one if you’re looking for a strong protection. Here is a link to a post on the topic.

My recommendation is to try the stock chassis before you do any upgrade. I personally have an ET48 for messing around at high speed. I really like the way the shorter chassis handles on the MT410. To each his usage.

Finally, 4s is plenty for my need.
 
Finally, 4s is plenty for my need.

Thanks for the info.

I've been doing a little browsing around the forum and noticed a few people talking about overheating issues. I do live in the AZ desert so heat can be a big problem for me for most of the year. I guess people are recommending lower kv motors on 6s rather than higher kv on 4s to keep things cool. Do you think 2200kv on 4s is going to be an issue as far as heat goes?
 
Thanks for the info.

I've been doing a little browsing around the forum and noticed a few people talking about overheating issues. I do live in the AZ desert so heat can be a big problem for me for most of the year. I guess people are recommending lower kv motors on 6s rather than higher kv on 4s to keep things cool. Do you think 2200kv on 4s is going to be an issue as far as heat goes?
Motor heat especially for bashing is a very subjective topic. It really depends on your expectations, how hard you drive (non stop or not), tire size and weight, terrain (grass or not) and the outside temperature.

For racers, things are a lot more equal. For bashers, things are not this way.

In the desert, you’re going to have to put a fan on the motor IMO. In 4s or 6s. The fan is going to be a tremendous help especially if you give it a few seconds here and there to let it dissipate heat.
While running 6s could in theory be a more efficient setup, I feel that a good fan and heat sink are going ta make a lot more of a difference.

I would stick with what I have, 4s or 6s, and make it work.

if you’re buying new anyhow, why not go for 6s, get a really low kv motor possibly down to 1300kv (basher motors are cheap) and turn the punch down on the ESC.

I just never saw anyone do that. People want more power and run 6s on 2200kv motors! Up to you to know if you’ll have the discipline to keep it tamed.
 
So there I am, putting my new mt410 kit together. I install the bearings in the hubs, insert the drive cups, give it a quick spin, and hear "click click click".

Huh?

Took the bearings out and saw that the outer race was broken! Brand new out of the box. So here I sit, waiting for new bearings to be shipped in because none of my lhs had this size in stock.
20210116_170152.jpg
 
Thats an odd one...I can see how that may have slipped throw QC.

Good thing you saw it though before you ran it!

You contacted Tekno didn't you? They will take care of an issue like that for sure.
 
You contacted Tekno didn't you? They will take care of an issue like that for sure.
nah. Not going to bother with that over such an inexpensive part. I just ordered a pack of 10 bearings from Amazon.

I also finally got my aluminum shock caps delivered so I can finally get this thing together and running when I get home from work in the morning.
 
nah. Not going to bother with that over such an inexpensive part. I just ordered a pack of 10 bearings from Amazon.

I also finally got my aluminum shock caps delivered so I can finally get this thing together and running when I get home from work in the morning.
If this is the one inside the hub on the axle side, then might as well get spares because they suffer more than any other one on the truck.
 
Well I think my barely used but still old hobbywing xerun esc and/or motor might have some issues. Seems that I'm only getting maybe half power. It doesn't have the same impressive performance it once had when it was in my REVO.

If I turn the expo setting to 100% and turn the punch up to 30+ I can get some decent (not the standing double back flips I used to get) off the line power, but once it starts gaining rpm the power output is very lackluster. Trying to do backflips during a jump is proving impossible. The car rotates too slowly. Doesn't seem to have the top end speed it once had either.

Can't even balloon my old tires.

My whole purpose in buying the mt410 kit was to salvage this motor and esc and now it's looking like I might have to buy a new combo anyway..

Sure looks nice though.

20210120_185717.jpg
 
Well I think my barely used but still old hobbywing xerun esc and/or motor might have some issues. Seems that I'm only getting maybe half power. It doesn't have the same impressive performance it once had when it was in my REVO.

If I turn the expo setting to 100% and turn the punch up to 30+ I can get some decent (not the standing double back flips I used to get) off the line power, but once it starts gaining rpm the power output is very lackluster. Trying to do backflips during a jump is proving impossible. The car rotates too slowly. Doesn't seem to have the top end speed it once had either.

Can't even balloon my old tires.

My whole purpose in buying the mt410 kit was to salvage this motor and esc and now it's looking like I might have to buy a new combo anyway..

Sure looks nice though.

View attachment 6081
Is that a outcast/noto brute body? Looks good on there! That sucks about your motor combo.. have you checked all the solder joints to maybe see if there is a bad one? Just a thought ??‍♂️
 
Well I think my barely used but still old hobbywing xerun esc and/or motor might have some issues. Seems that I'm only getting maybe half power. It doesn't have the same impressive performance it once had when it was in my REVO.

If I turn the expo setting to 100% and turn the punch up to 30+ I can get some decent (not the standing double back flips I used to get) off the line power, but once it starts gaining rpm the power output is very lackluster. Trying to do backflips during a jump is proving impossible. The car rotates too slowly. Doesn't seem to have the top end speed it once had either.

Can't even balloon my old tires.

My whole purpose in buying the mt410 kit was to salvage this motor and esc and now it's looking like I might have to buy a new combo anyway..

Sure looks nice though.

View attachment 6081
Does it feel like it runs stronger in reverse than forward? If it is the case, you need to reverse it.
 
Is that a outcast/noto brute body? Looks good on there! That sucks about your motor combo.. have you checked all the solder joints to maybe see if there is a bad one? Just a thought ??‍♂️
It is a brute body, didn't really pay attention for what kit though. It was literally the only thing that would fit in the hobby shop. My plan to use my old Revo body didn't pan out as the rear body mount posts didn't like up with any flat part of the body.

Just an FYI though, if you plan on getting the Brute body, be ready to either buy different posts, or take a dremel to your existing posts, as the body is super thick and you need to expand the holes upwards to get your body pins in.

As far as the motor goes, the soldering is all good. The wires are in good shape.

I don't know. I've been out of the hobby for so long that I am starting to question whether or not it really is under powered or if my memory is just wrong. I guess I will just run it as-is until either the ESC or motor fully craps out, or I decide to bite the bullet and risk buying a new combo to put in and see if it makes a difference.

Another thing I noticed is that I vividly recall the Revo running on 4s with 5100mah batteries with run times so long that I kinda got bored before the battery died. Like 30-40 minutes. Now, with my new 5200mah batteries I am only getting maybe 10-15 minutes of run time I think. I haven't timed it, but I know it seems MUCH shorter. So again, another instance of my memory being wrong, OR something is wrong with my ESC/motor. Or I guess I could possibly have bad batteries.. I don't know.
 
Last edited:
So there I am, putting my new mt410 kit together. I install the bearings in the hubs, insert the drive cups, give it a quick spin, and hear "click click click".

Huh?

Took the bearings out and saw that the outer race was broken! Brand new out of the box. So here I sit, waiting for new bearings to be shipped in because none of my lhs had this size in stock. View attachment 6023
I know exactly what happened here because I did the same thing on one of my hubs when i built my MT410 last week. You used the wrong screw lol

If I remember correctly, that bag has two screw lengths that are 2mm different than each other. Let’s say that spot calls for a 3x10mm, you installed the 3x12mm and cracked the outter bearing race...Atleast that’s what happened to me

Also, what is the bearing # so I can order more?
Or better yet, send me one for telling you not to make the same mistake on the replacement bearing lol
 
I know exactly what happened here because I did the same thing on one of my hubs when i built my MT410 last week. You used the wrong screw lol

If I remember correctly, that bag has two screw lengths that are 2mm different than each other. Let’s say that spot calls for a 3x10mm, you installed the 3x12mm and cracked the outter bearing race...Atleast that’s what happened to me

Also, what is the bearing # so I can order more?
Or better yet, send me one for telling you not to make the same mistake on the replacement bearing lol
I can't say that I didn't do that, but at the same time I don't think I installed any screws in the carrier after I put the bearing in. I am pretty sure I put the bearings in after everything was already together. The broken bearing came right out and the new one went in easy.

Anyway, here is the Amazon page where I bought the replacements. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VVWBI3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Well, I am about 90% confident my ESC has somehow gone bad while not being used for the last 4-5 years.

I got a new radio system and while setting up my travels and trims, I noticed my steering servo was not adjusting passed 100% like it did with my old radio. This lead me on a diagnostic roller coaster which took me from suspecting the receiver, to the transmitter, to the servo, and finally to the ESC.

I think the BEC in my ESC has gone bad and not supplying consistent voltage to the receiver, causing all of my electrical issues. I'm not sure if this is also causing my lack of power, but I guess I'll find out soon enough as I have a new ESC on order.

Which really sucks since my entire goal with this kit was to re-use my motor and ESC from me Revo. I don't know why it would have gone bad. It only had 5 or so runs on it when I packed it away.
 

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