• Welcome to Tekno RC Forums! Are you a Tekno RC fan? If so you're in luck as you've have arrived to the biggest and best Tekno RC community.

    Come join our community and ask your questions, show off your Tekno RCs and share your experience!

New build help please

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sahmad786

Member
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
So I am not sure if the following is correct as per the manual. It was posted on the Tekno facebook page but I wasn't able to make sense of it. At any rate, should the screw be going in from the bottom as depicted in the manual or from the top? Also, is the nut suitable?
 
inbound5071874626153545714.jpg
 
If you're talking about TKR1529 and TKR1201 (along w/ the washers depicted) then yes, that's the correct orientation. Why do you ask? Are you encountering some unexpected issue on this step?

Good luck w/ the build!
 
Was he wrong to flip it the other way? Or is the manual correct? He said

'You don't put socket head cap screws in hex pockets'
 
This the ET48.3 manual where it is the opposite of the MT410 manual
Screenshot_20200618-154339_Facebook.jpg
 
I built my MT410 per the directions, screw on bottom nut on top. The longer arm of the MT410 means the clearance between the steering spindle (TKR5193) and the arm is very tight (much tighter then my SCT410 which is built screw down). Placing the screw down on the MT410 would likely end up with a clearance issue with TKR1529 hitting the arm on full steering lock, especially at full droop. My guess is there is more clearance on the buggy.
 
Thank you, also, is this okay? The manual is showing the spring much looser/lower...I did follow the directions by tighten all the way to the top and loosening 3 rotations. Not sure why the manual has the ring nut at the bottom
 

Attachments

  • 20200618_183825.jpg
    20200618_183825.jpg
    79 KB · Views: 279
Looks about right. Should be pretty tight. The pressure from the spring keeps the separate steering pieces moving together unless the force is enough to overcome the spring pressure and push them apart. The v-shaped ramp between the parts turns the twisting movement to vertical motion.

Servo saver I believe they call it. Took me a while to understand what was meant by that term.
 
Installing it with the nut on top makes it easier if you want to adjust your camber gain using the washers later on down the road. If the screw is the other way you have to do some fancy finger work to keep them from spilling every where when making adjustments.
 
Thank you all!

In regards to the shocks, I saw 2 videos...one states to tigthen the piston so it will not spin at all/remain stationary. The other was to tighten but allow it spin. Which one is correct?

Thank you
 
The following build is for the EB48 2.0, but many parts will be very similar across various models so you may wish to take a look: https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/tekno-eb48-2-0-complete-video-build-guide.1658/

When it comes to the shock pistons, don't tighten down too far. Remember the pistons are plastic - you don't want to tighten down too far and distort them in any way or squish the plastic and deform it a little. Personally I like to tighten the nut down just enough so that the piston cannot rock at all, but can be turned with your fingers.
See post 16 (Bag L & M) in the thread above for the shock build and how I tend to build my shocks......
 
The following build is for the EB48 2.0, but many parts will be very similar across various models so you may wish to take a look: https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/tekno-eb48-2-0-complete-video-build-guide.1658/

When it comes to the shock pistons, don't tighten down too far. Remember the pistons are plastic - you don't want to tighten down too far and distort them in any way or squish the plastic and deform it a little. Personally I like to tighten the nut down just enough so that the piston cannot rock at all, but can be turned with your fingers.
See post 16 (Bag L & M) in the thread above for the shock build and how I tend to build my shocks......

Thank you! The piston is still required if Im doing an emulsion setup correct?
 
Yes, you will always need to use a shock piston. If you are looking at the manual and reading optional next to a piston it is referencing that particular piston as being an option for tuning, meaning larger wholes or more wholes in the piston that allow for more fluid to pass through the piston when compressing. Emulsion means you will be using the leader screw instead of venting the caps in order to bleed the shocks.
 
Yes, you will always need to use a shock piston. If you are looking at the manual and reading optional next to a piston it is referencing that particular piston as being an option for tuning, meaning larger wholes or more wholes in the piston that allow for more fluid to pass through the piston when compressing. Emulsion means you will be using the leader screw instead of venting the caps in order to bleed the shocks.

Sorry, but what do you mean by the leader screw? I bought the M2C emulsion shock caps that come with some kind ring. Are the venting caps that stock shock valve caps that come with the kit?

Thank you
 
I think he meant to say bleeder screw.
The piston is required irrespective of how you are setting up your shocks.
 
Thank you! Another question, the manual has the spring tension rung nut all the way to the top, however every pic Ive seen of MT410's, none of them have the spring ring nut all the way top. What is the best positioning for the spring ring nut on the shocks for bashing for both and back shocks? Pictures would be great!

Thank you!
 
Thank you! Another question, the manual has the spring tension rung nut all the way to the top, however every pic Ive seen of MT410's, none of them have the spring ring nut all the way top. What is the best positioning for the spring ring nut on the shocks for bashing for both and back shocks? Pictures would be great!

Thank you!

What you are describing is how you adjust the ride height. You will adjust those shock collars when you have everything all set up and you are RTR. You want the full weight of everything you would be running when you adjust them collars.

This screen shot is from the buggy manual.
Screen Shot 2020-06-22 at 8.53.20 AM.png


The MT manual apparently does not have this very handy setup info which explains why MT owners (that don't have any other Tekno's) always ask these kind of questions. I am not sure why the MT manual does not have this basic setup section?
 
Sorry, but what do you mean by the leader screw? I bought the M2C emulsion shock caps that come with some kind ring. Are the venting caps that stock shock valve caps that come with the kit?

Thank you
Yes, I meant bleeder not leader and will will also have to bleed the M2C Racing emulsion set up too. I have that same setup. The Pistons have a orientation that you should fallow, the side that has the extra wholes that do not go all the way through the piston need to be facing down. Also those caps really need to be super tight to prevent them from leaking, just FYI. If setup correctly they work fantastic!
 
Emulsion shocks installed! Thank you! On to mounting the servo but there is a big gap that doesn't look right. Is this normal? Installing a protek370tbl servo.
 

Attachments

  • 20200625_001235.jpg
    20200625_001235.jpg
    42.3 KB · Views: 301

Recent Popular Liked

Back
Top