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MT410 RTR

Jack the Tripper

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Florida
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
Had a blast building this rig. I look forward to firing it up for the first time this weekend. I'll be running 4S and a 15t pinion and progress from there on. I have 17,20 and 21t as well. The motor/esc combo is supposed to be an unlabeled Hobbywing 2400KV/ 100A-650A. It says Queens Hobbies on the can. Got a good deal for it on ebay, hope its delivers. I couldn't find any with the same specs on the Hobbywing site...
Anyways; I would be interested to know what would you guys recommend as a good all round pinion with speed/torque balance for this particular set up.
Best to all !!
 

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Sludog

Well-known member
Messages
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LBI
Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
Had a blast building this rig. I look forward to firing it up for the first time this weekend. I'll be running 4S and a 15t pinion and progress from there on. I have 17,20 and 21t as well. The motor/esc combo is supposed to be an unlabeled Hobbywing 2400KV/ 100A-650A. It says Queens Hobbies on the can. Got a good deal for it on ebay, hope its delivers. I couldn't find any with the same specs on the Hobbywing site...
Anyways; I would be interested to know what would you guys recommend as a good all round pinion with speed/torque balance for this particular set up.
Best to all !!
Looks awesome. Is that a custom cage body?
 

Nicochau

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Location
Los Angeles
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
@Jack the Tripper , What size is your can?

Assuming it is true 1/8, buggy or Truggy can, 2400kv is rather high and starting at 15t is wise. Wouldn’t go any higher until you know your rig can handle it well and temps are in check. Those Backflips LP are reasonably sized, don’t go bigger or heavier.

If you want to backflip more, use thicker fluid in you center diff.
 

Jack the Tripper

Active member
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Location
Florida
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
@Jack the Tripper , What size is your can?

Assuming it is true 1/8, buggy or Truggy can, 2400kv is rather high and starting at 15t is wise. Wouldn’t go any higher until you know your rig can handle it well and temps are in check. Those Backflips LP are reasonably sized, don’t go bigger or heavier.

If you want to backflip more, use thicker fluid in you center diff.

Thanks for your tips Nicochau ! The can is 4068 size.
Temps is one of the few things that has me just a tad worried cause its getting warmer everyday here. Also I wasn't able to fit the twin fan heat sink, I gotta try that again. What is the best way to check for temps ?

I am using the stock fluids in the diffs 100k front and center 50k in the rear. Is there any suggested setup regarding fluid ?I'm pretty sure I have a 200k wt in the parts bin.
 

Nicochau

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Thanks for your tips Nicochau ! The can is 4068 size.
Temps is one of the few things that has me just a tad worried cause its getting warmer everyday here. Also I wasn't able to fit the twin fan heat sink, I gotta try that again. What is the best way to check for temps ?

I am using the stock fluids in the diffs 100k front and center 50k in the rear. Is there any suggested setup regarding fluid ?I'm pretty sure I have a 200k wt in the parts bin.
I was going to say "checking temps is easy you need THIS"... but with the current craziness it might be a bit more challenging to find... :cautious:

This is what you need:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Digital-Test-Meter/50125849

They are usually $12 to $15 on Amazon.

Diffs are really up to you, to each his style.
 

Jack the Tripper

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Florida
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
Thanks Nicochau, that might come in handy I've never check for temps before, didn't need to since I lived in a colder region but now I think its going to be something Ill have to consider. What should I consider safe temps ? I mean at what temperature I should start to worry or let cool.
Thanks in advance !
 

ZUMA

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Location
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Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
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Basher
Thanks !! Its is in fact a Losi Ten SCBE body, I had to do some light mods on it to have it fit the MT chassis.
Nice body, what are the light mods needed? Got pictures of how it's mounted? I just finished buying another Ford Raptor body too :confused:
 

Jack the Tripper

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Location
Florida
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
Nice body, what are the light mods needed? Got pictures of how it's mounted? I just finished buying another Ford Raptor body too :confused:

Here are a few with more detail of the mounting.
The most significant mod is actually done on the kit, you need to drill two 3.2mm holes on the rear shock tower to attach the cage. You can see in the pick from the rear, they are the two silver screws with washers.
Then you need to drill a 6mm hole through the Losi cage and hood panel right in the middle of the two existing ones for the body post. The body post you can mount in the existing hole on the front tower.
Finally you have to cut/trim a bit the front mud guards of the Losi cage to clear the path of the steering rack. I did this coping the line of the side panels and it worked just fine.
 

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Nicochau

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Thanks Nicochau, that might come in handy I've never check for temps before, didn't need to since I lived in a colder region but now I think its going to be something Ill have to consider. What should I consider safe temps ? I mean at what temperature I should start to worry or let cool.
Thanks in advance !
180F is when you fry the grease in your motor bearings. Once the grease is shot, bearings will lack lubrication and get hotter sooner and it is a vicious circle... It is also the temp that starts to hurt your motor.

So a good practice for the bearings to never hit 180F is to never hit 160F on the can. That's the temp you'll measure.

I add an extra 20F of safety margin and try to keep my motors in the 135F to 140F range after a race or bash session. That's what I also found to be the temp for my fairly common race setups.
 

Jack the Tripper

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Location
Florida
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
180F is when you fry the grease in your motor bearings. Once the grease is shot, bearings will lack lubrication and get hotter sooner and it is a vicious circle... It is also the temp that starts to hurt your motor.

So a good practice for the bearings to never hit 180F is to never hit 160F on the can. That's the temp you'll measure.

I add an extra 20F of safety margin and try to keep my motors in the 135F to 140F range after a race or bash session. That's what I also found to be the temp for my fairly common race setups.
That is some really good advice Nicochau, thanks so much for the feedback !!
 

Jack the Tripper

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Location
Florida
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
Well so I maiden this rig, one and a half packs to be exact and all I can say is wow, this thing is a fu#ing beast. Its got power to spare, It easily pops wheelies at any speed, feels quite docile in the air and its super fast considering its weight.
I knew it was going to be good, but I wasn't expecting that much, I was very pleasantly suprised.

Now on to the not so good stuff.
I don't know why I am having trouble with the pinion and motor plate (the one attached to the motor).

My first run was on Saturday and was cut short due to the pinion coming loose. Luckily nothing was damaged it just popped out while I was slowly crawling from the street to the sidewalk. I was having a good time with a very light rain doing some drifting on a wet parking lot and one or two jumps of the sidewalk which is like nothing for this thing, so no big air.
So Sunday night I fitted again the pinion with extra locktite and tightened the set screw as hard as I could without stripping it and left it to rest.

Today I figured it was time to take it out again to do the real maiden and push it harder to know its limits.
I went to an open grass park with some medium/light undulations.
The session was great, it ripped through grass and dirt, got some nice air and popped wheelies on demand but about 10 minutes into the session, it happened again; pinion came loose.
I was having fun so I manually pushed the pinion back in and continued bashing.
After a few more minutes it lost gearing again but this time it was the motor plate and motor that had moved just a tad enough to loose pinion/spur contact. So I pushed the whole thing to set the mesh and continued bashing.
To make the story short, the pinion did not came loose again, but the motor plate was slipping away thereby loosing pinon/spur contact. I must have done this about 4 times. Always very aware of sound and power transmission trying to avoid any serious problem.
So finally the 5th time I lost power on the wheels I flip open the cage and see the pinion pushed all the way back towards the motor and about 1/5 of the stock spur stripped.
Quite satisfied, though still with a few issues to fix, I figured it was enough. I must have been bashing for 30'.

So: how can I fix this ? I would really appreciate any suggestions.
I am planning to keep running this spur, I don't think it is that badly damaged to dispose of it. Would anyone recommend not to do so ? Fortunately I have a Tekno steel spur in the parts bin I could use.
Regarding the pinion, for now, I am thinking I could file the set screw so to make it lock flatter on the shaft.
Regarding the motor plate, I am clueless besides trying to screw it tighter and use more loctite. It was quite tight already. Maybe some markings on the motor mount could help the screws to lock better ?? I really don't know.

Sorry for the long message but there is no better place than here to ask for this kind of advice.
Looking forward to any recomendation.

Best to all and happy bashing !!
 

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TBuggy

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET410
  4. SCT410
Nothing more than what you are saying should be needed to keep things in place. Maybe try cleaning your screws off with some alcohol wipes and then when dry add loctite again and install as before. Let it dry overnight and should be good to go.

Maybe mix up your loctite before using it may help things set better as well.
 

Jack the Tripper

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Location
Florida
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
Nothing more than what you are saying should be needed to keep things in place. Maybe try cleaning your screws off with some alcohol wipes and then when dry add loctite again and install as before. Let it dry overnight and should be good to go.

Maybe mix up your loctite before using it may help things set better as well.
Thanks for you feedback TBuggy !!! I'll try and fix everything as soon as possible since parks are opening today, time to bash worry free.
 

Jack the Tripper

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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
Ok so I just finished re assembling the pinion and motor mount and Im afraid the stock spur has to go. The stripped teeth make for a horrible meshing, everything but smooth running. I think it will be prone to some intense vibration that could loosen up all the center diff mount, don't want to take any chance. So Ill be dropping in the steel spur probably tomorrow.
Once stock spur is off Ill may try and file the teeth to see if I can get them neat and regular again.
On the other hand, the pinion set screw was filed flat and I believe it now sits perfectly tight. It has now more than double the area of contact against the shaft. Im hoping that won't present any further issues .
 

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Jack the Tripper

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Location
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Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
I was finally able to get some time to work on the MT and drop the new spur. I finally changed my mind and got another composite spur. I like it is wider thereby providing more surface of contact and a more pleasant fit. Also has a better sound to it than the metal imo.
While I was at it, I decided to drop in the aluminum split center diff mount that I had in store for my ET48 (still unbuilt). With already some aluminum showing up I decided to get the rear M2C brace to complete the bracing and stiffen the chassis.
Also finally managed to make the YR dual fans fit. Had to cut out the cable holders from the chassis side guard.
Cut both cables to the appropriate length to avoid slack and keep a clean look and since I had only one channel left at the rx I attached both cables to just one pin.
Every moving part was bolted on again tight af and with generous locktite. Pinion and motor mount are now planted and past weekend bash stands as proof. With some luck she may see many more sessions before I have to fix anything again.
Best to all and happy bashing .
 

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Klappars

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Make sure to use isporopyl alcohol on a cloth or tissue to clean the screw threads and grub screw. This should make sure the threadlock can grip the screws as well as possible.
 

Jack the Tripper

Active member
Messages
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Location
Florida
Tekno RC's
  1. ET48
  2. MT410
  3. NB-48
Make sure to use isporopyl alcohol on a cloth or tissue to clean the screw threads and grub screw. This should make sure the threadlock can grip the screws as well as possible.
Thanks for the remark Klappars, I'll keep that in mind for the next time. I didn't have alcohol at hand but I cleaned them with dish soap and warm water.
 

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