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macovial

Active member
Messages
32
Reaction score
13
Location
NorCal
Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
I just bought a MT410. I am ordering a M2C Game Changer wide body and their new shock towers. My question is, since I am getting the new shock towers and the chassis and they both are solid, do I need to buy any extra braces?

M2C6755 Rear Center brace
M2C6973 Rear Horizontal Brace

Any thing else I need to consider since I'll be flying this car and not worrying about breaking it, which my Traxxas does.


 
It really all depends on how far you want to go into turning your MT into a flying brick.

Rules of the game are as follow:
  • Flex gives you traction
  • Too much flex and your driveline will get hit (and bent) during hard landings
  • Weight is always the enemy
First question is what do you want to do with your RC? Hardcore jumps? Bash-racing with friends? Depending on your goals, you can pick the happy compromise.

My recommendation for an efficient and very driveable basher: use your m2c chassis with the stock plastic braces. This is how IMHO, you will make the best of the m2c strength and at the same time safeguard some of that Tekno racing DNA. Exception, use the m2c rear tower brace v3 since I think it does an awesome job at strengthening the rear end.

Also, get yourself a really strong body, like Proline Armor Bash series.
 
I have the standard body with all of the M2C braces including the really heavy duty shock towers. I launch it 15 ft in the air haven't had anything bent yet. Just a shock mount bent a little. It's a freakin tank!
 
It really all depends on how far you want to go into turning your MT into a flying brick.

Rules of the game are as follow:
  • Flex gives you traction
  • Too much flex and your driveline will get hit (and bent) during hard landings
  • Weight is always the enemy
First question is what do you want to do with your RC? Hardcore jumps? Bash-racing with friends? Depending on your goals, you can pick the happy compromise.

My recommendation for an efficient and very driveable basher: use your m2c chassis with the stock plastic braces. This is how IMHO, you will make the best of the m2c strength and at the same time safeguard some of that Tekno racing DNA. Exception, use the m2c rear tower brace v3 since I think it does an awesome job at strengthening the rear end.

Also, get yourself a really strong body, like Proline Armor Bash series.
LOL - Flying brick.. Awesome! Both bash racing and hardcore jumps is the goal here. What do you recommend for shock upgrades? Looks like the stock shock caps bust easily and I'd hate to have to fix a shock cap right after my first high flying brick landing.
 
I have the standard body with all of the M2C braces including the really heavy duty shock towers. I launch it 15 ft in the air haven't had anything bent yet. Just a shock mount bent a little. It's a freakin tank!
Sweet! I'm getting all the braces. Are you using stock shocks or upgraded ones?
 
LOL - Flying brick.. Awesome! Both bash racing and hardcore jumps is the goal here. What do you recommend for shock upgrades? Looks like the stock shock caps bust easily and I'd hate to have to fix a shock cap right after my first high flying brick landing.
Aluminum shock caps for sure, Tekno or m2c, both work.

Shock body is the best on the market, nothing else to change.

Springs can be changed too, it really depends on wheelbase and driving style. With the shorter (stock MT410) wheelbase:
  • green (stock) springs = best handling
  • yellow = ok if your rig is a lot heavier, handling starts to be on the jerky side on rough terrain
  • orange = reduces chassis slap on landings, doesn't handle like a Tekno anymore on anything else than smooth terrain
Note: this is for the shorter wheelbase, the longer wheelbase can take stiffer springs (better in the back).

Note 2: built MT410 eat bodies like nothing else, you will soon see what I mean...
 
Be careful how heavy you make it. You’ll end up with a big heavy monster truggy instead of a nimble Tekno basher. My basher is too heavy and doesn’t have that Tekno feel to it any more. It’s a tank and nothing breaks but, I find myself wanting to build another and keep it mostly stock and add only a home made tower to tower brace.
 
Yes to your question.

My MT410 (go check out my build thread) was built to jump so If your really gonna fly it or send it I’d do all the bracing. My rigs a tank and the only thing that goes are shock rod ends on the crazy jumps.

I’d also add

M2C6972

I also did the full upgrade shock option like the ET/EB 48 kits. Aluminum caps, Aluminum bottoms, aluminum collars, delrin internals, tini shafts, and orange springs.

Makes sure you get the m2c servo horn if you go with their chassis too. Steel spur is also an option as well.

I agree making it have does change the ride but it was my end goal for this build (Even though I have been tinkered the idea of reverting back to mostly stock).
 
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The shock caps are the only thing you may want to change. I didn't until they broke. It's probably 15 pounds by now, but I love it the way it is. Can run as many battery packs as I want and no overheat even in 85 Los angeles weather. Nice to go bashing and when I return all I gotta to do is clean, breaks are infrequent now and I love it the way it is. Just wish I have a good body made for it. I have the e-revo brute bash body on it. That has worked the best so far and I just fill the hole in the back to make it look nicer. Love my tekno mt410 although it took me a while to fix the overheating and get all the M2C braces in. Mitch if really wonderful too.
 
The shock caps are the only thing you may want to change. I didn't until they broke. It's probably 15 pounds by now, but I love it the way it is. Can run as many battery packs as I want and no overheat even in 85 Los angeles weather. Nice to go bashing and when I return all I gotta to do is clean, breaks are infrequent now and I love it the way it is. Just wish I have a good body made for it. I have the e-revo brute bash body on it. That has worked the best so far and I just fill the hole in the back to make it look nicer. Love my tekno mt410 although it took me a while to fix the overheating and get all the M2C braces in. Mitch if really wonderful too.
Where are you at in LA? Join us at El Nido park for some fun bash-racing. Group is there most weekends. Plenty of Tekno fans.
 
The shock caps are the only thing you may want to change. I didn't until they broke. It's probably 15 pounds by now, but I love it the way it is. Can run as many battery packs as I want and no overheat even in 85 Los angeles weather. Nice to go bashing and when I return all I gotta to do is clean, breaks are infrequent now and I love it the way it is. Just wish I have a good body made for it. I have the e-revo brute bash body on it. That has worked the best so far and I just fill the hole in the back to make it look nicer. Love my tekno mt410 although it took me a while to fix the overheating and get all the M2C braces in. Mitch if really wonderful too.
Thanks and that sounds exciting to be able to run all day without overheating. I totally look forward to that. I ordered all the braces and the shock caps and they're on the way. Curious - What motor/ESC, batteries and tires are you running with?
 
I started with a Mamba X and 1515-2200kv sensored combo, no matter what I did, it still over heated in the summer. I'd run a pack and dam, frustrating. There's some post on this subject on this forum, I concluded the 1515 was under powered for an 1/8 scale basher. Got so frustrated at running it hard in an open field and it overheating. After much help this forum, one guy in particular I don't recall his name I switched to a Mamba Monster X with a 1520-1650kv and relocated the ESC to above center diff. Was real hesitant to do it for many reasons, but the overheating frustration got to me and ordered the combo. Best thing ever! The MT410 handles so well and now it doesn't matter how I run it, no overheats. I have a 24T on it probably does around 40 but I don't need to go any faster, just love the power and never overheats. Got a set of back flips on it which I and I think many here like. I also have a set of trenchers that I couldn't consider using before but now I put them on from time to time, but back flips are better in the air. trenchers good for climbing big rocks. Here's some picks of the ESC relocation to the center diff.
 

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I started with a Mamba X and 1515-2200kv sensored combo, no matter what I did, it still over heated in the summer. I'd run a pack and dam, frustrating. There's some post on this subject on this forum, I concluded the 1515 was under powered for an 1/8 scale basher. Got so frustrated at running it hard in an open field and it overheating. After much help this forum, one guy in particular I don't recall his name I switched to a Mamba Monster X with a 1520-1650kv and relocated the ESC to above center diff. Was real hesitant to do it for many reasons, but the overheating frustration got to me and ordered the combo. Best thing ever! The MT410 handles so well and now it doesn't matter how I run it, no overheats. I have a 24T on it probably does around 40 but I don't need to go any faster, just love the power and never overheats. Got a set of back flips on it which I and I think many here like. I also have a set of trenchers that I couldn't consider using before but now I put them on from time to time, but back flips are better in the air. trenchers good for climbing big rocks. Here's some picks of the ESC relocation to the center diff.
MT or LP ? 4s or 6s battery? Also, what differential oils viscosity? :) Sorry for asking all those questions. I just want to see proven results specifically related to overheating issues and handling as I've been having overheating issues with my Pro4HD 3000kv on my Stampede. Probably because of my Trencher 2.8 tires and high pinon. Thanks for your comments.
 
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ask away bro, I've posted a lot of dumb questions when starting out. Lots people helped me out here thus why I now have a really sweet mt410. I answered you message with what you are asking already. Diff and shock oil is standard. I put green springs in the rear and yellow in the front.
 
ask away bro, I've posted a lot of dumb questions when starting out. Lots people helped me out here thus why I now have a really sweet mt410. I answered you message with what you are asking already. Diff and shock oil is standard. I put green springs in the rear and yellow in the front.
Thanks for answering my dumb questions. :LOL: I look forward to putting the flying brick all together when everything arrives. As always, appreciate your and everyone's input.
 
It really all depends on how far you want to go into turning your MT into a flying brick.

Rules of the game are as follow:
  • Flex gives you traction
  • Too much flex and your driveline will get hit (and bent) during hard landings
  • Weight is always the enemy
First question is what do you want to do with your RC? Hardcore jumps? Bash-racing with friends? Depending on your goals, you can pick the happy compromise.

My recommendation for an efficient and very driveable basher: use your m2c chassis with the stock plastic braces. This is how IMHO, you will make the best of the m2c strength and at the same time safeguard some of that Tekno racing DNA. Exception, use the m2c rear tower brace v3 since I think it does an awesome job at strengthening the rear end.

Also, get yourself a really strong body, like Proline Armor Bash series.

Do you know if this particular body will fit on the MT410? Proline Brute. The brick is almost done.
 
Thanks for the reply. Not too many options for a tough bashing body. :( The bumpers on your MT look awesome. Too bad they're out of stock everywhere and I hope they come back in stock before I crash my MT.
 
I started with a Mamba X and 1515-2200kv sensored combo, no matter what I did, it still over heated in the summer. I'd run a pack and dam, frustrating. There's some post on this subject on this forum, I concluded the 1515 was under powered for an 1/8 scale basher. Got so frustrated at running it hard in an open field and it overheating. After much help this forum, one guy in particular I don't recall his name I switched to a Mamba Monster X with a 1520-1650kv and relocated the ESC to above center diff. Was real hesitant to do it for many reasons, but the overheating frustration got to me and ordered the combo. Best thing ever! The MT410 handles so well and now it doesn't matter how I run it, no overheats. I have a 24T on it probably does around 40 but I don't need to go any faster, just love the power and never overheats. Got a set of back flips on it which I and I think many here like. I also have a set of trenchers that I couldn't consider using before but now I put them on from time to time, but back flips are better in the air. trenchers good for climbing big rocks. Here's some picks of the ESC relocation to the center diff.
Are you Just using Arrma body posts and mounts? I'm trying to think of a better way to mount my erevo body and the way yours looks seems pretty simple.
 
Are you Just using Arrma body posts and mounts? I'm trying to think of a better way to mount my erevo body and the way yours looks seems pretty simple.
The m2c shock towers is made to be used with the arrma body posts and mounts, they are mounted on the tower rather than in the plastic braces that is stock!

m2c-3103-arrma-kraton-outcast-notorious-rear-shock-tower.jpg




Does anyone know how much heavier the m2c chassi is versus the stock chassi? I'd love the safety of a m2c chassi but I'd hate to sacrifice too much of the nimbleness etc.
 

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