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Knowing Your RC's Sounds

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RustyUs

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
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Location
central PA
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET410
  3. SCT410
I could've kept going, but on power EB48 grinding noise was just too awful to ignore.
IMG_20240804_101906795.jpg


Blown bearing at the worst possible spot? Oh, well. Gave me excuse to check the fluid. Might have been original Tekno bearing too, because the other side is an original Tekno (2.0) black seal bearing... all my replacement diff bearings have orange seals.
 
I highly recommend doing a complete rebuild after every 2 hours of run time, to include pulling the seals and inspecting bearings to determine if they need to be flushed and packed with fresh grease, more info here:
Side note, bearings start to feel crunchy long before they fail, if they don't roll smooth after flushing, then I replace them with new bearings.
 
Billl DeLong, the bearings on rear diff were three-plus years old. I do bearing and shock maintenance every 12 runs. If shock oil is dirty, I clean/rebuild shocks. If bearings feel even the slightest bit gritty, I replace with a previously cleaned/relubed bearing. For the diff bearings, I take outside seal off, and clean/relube as best I can.

Yes, it's tedious work on the diff bearings as a person can't just pull the bearings over the outdrives like on the 1/10 scale diffs.
 
I would encourage you to invest in a low torque powered driver to make rebuilding diffs a snap:

A typical break down with a power driver takes me about 45 min, and about an hour to re-assemble everything with the extra time added for wiping parts clean and adding fresh fluids/grease.

12 runs is more than reasonable, but if a car has sat on the shelf for 3+ years, then it might be a good time to rebuild it, ha!
 

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