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48.3 Ideas for diff oil high traction

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EvilT

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Truggy will be used on a high traction street circuit so wondering on good starting point on CST’s for the diffs?

I was thinking 60/100/30
 
Back when I used to run GT8e's on an asphalt parking lot track, I would put diff locking putty on both the front and center diffs, and depending on how tight the corners were, I ran anywhere from 5K up to 30K in the rear diff where 30K was necessary if there were any hairpin 180° corners, but I would run 5K for a wide sweeping layout to get more control on corner exit into the back straight.
 
Back when I used to run GT8e's on an asphalt parking lot track, I would put diff locking putty on both the front and center diffs, and depending on how tight the corners were, I ran anywhere from 5K up to 30K in the rear diff where 30K was necessary if there were any hairpin 180° corners, but I would run 5K for a wide sweeping layout to get more control on corner exit into the back straight.

Really that locked?

I’m shocked as most I’ve seen outside of bashers is like 200-500k centre (locked for speed runners) and then 30-100k front!

As said I was thinking 60/100/30 and at the highest 100/200/60
 
Most GT8e's come with a center spool, at a minimum, folks will run 500K on the front, but most will run 2 million or locking putty... note that locking putty doesn't fully lock ;)

Here's a demo with an OFNA X3 with locking putty on the front, center spool and 10K in the rear:


This is a DM1 with front diff lock putty, center spool and 30K rear, you can see that it rotates a lot faster in the corners and is a little more nimble:


Here's am RC8e conversion with 60/100/30 which was recommended by a bunch of bashers who didn't know what they were doing... this was my first GT8e conversion and I honestly didn't know what I was doing at the time either, but notice how the rear end of the car starts to spin out on hard acceleration, that's because the front and center diffs aren't anywhere near as thick as they need to be:


Feel free to try different things, at least you can see some video of working setups to judge for yourself ;)
 
Great info and yes most definitely can notice the difference.

Obviously a hard question to answer unless you have tried and tested but is there anything you would take into consideration being used on a ET due to the extra weight and not as low CG.
 
If it were me, I'd run it with GT8 wheels (Sweep EXP50 Belted Radials are my personal favorite), I know it will look strange, but that will give you the best possible performance, I would also reduce the ride height down to around 10-12mm and also get the stiffest springs you can find, in fact it might be easier to simply buy some GT8 shocks from another car. I would consider these shocks here:
https://www.nitrorcx.com/mad-cp0154.html

I believe NitroRCX still offers free shipping on orders over $25 so consider tossing in some extra hardware to get your cart up to $25. I have a set of these shocks that I was experimenting with my SCT410 to convert to oval racer and I confirmed they would fit so I only assume they will work on the ET48 too.

Good Luck!
 
Another thing I would consider is converting the ET48 into a GT2 which is a Kyosko that runs a longer truggy chassis, you'll want to double check the wheelbase but I think you might be able to fit a GT2 body on the ET48, not sure but I think you might need to get the EB48 arms and shafts to get the wheels to fit under the body and then use the SCT410 towers and body mounts to get something that looks like this when the conversion is complete:

I have not done this conversion myself, just throwing some ideas out there, be sure to cross reference measurements before ordering any parts!

*** EDIT
Wheelbase on GT2 = 360mm
Wheelbase on ET48 = 375mm

That's pretty darn close to make the GT2 body fit, simply cut the holes for the rear wheels as needed, 15mm isn't that much and won't be noticeable ;)
 
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Great info buddy!

I’ve got some 2m, 500k, 100k and 60k here

Was thinking of trying

500k / 2m / 60k

Before ordering some more in, or would you say the 60m rear is way too high?

(Actually scrap that I’m sure I have some Traxxas 20m somewhere)
 
60m = 60 million? Yeah that's way too high for the rear, but assuming you meant 60K even that is high IMO, if you have some 20K that is a much better starting point. You'll know immediately if you need to drop down to 10K on the rear if the back end is too squirrely on power.

More info here from the Hudy Tuning Guide that may help you with your diff tuning:
15824512935_13c8f9fb67_z.jpg
 
60m = 60 million? Yeah that's way too high for the rear, but assuming you meant 60K even that is high IMO, if you have some 20K that is a much better starting point. You'll know immediately if you need to drop down to 10K on the rear if the back end is too squirrely on power.

More info here from the Hudy Tuning Guide that may help you with your diff tuning:
15824512935_13c8f9fb67_z.jpg

Ops yes misprint as above I mean 60k

I’ve actually found some 30k so going to start with with

500k / 2m / 30k

The whole locked front is a new one to me so going to start with 500k and as with the centre I have 2m if needed.
 

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