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Help with my MT410 diffs

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Zvan

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Hi I am hoping that someone will be able to help me figure out why I keep exploding my differential spider gears? The first time it happened to my rear end diff and now it’s happened to my centre and front diff... and I have not even had a chance to look at the rear diff yet...
I thought I had done everything properly and I haven’t had this problem with any other monster truck I own?
I am new to battery powered trucks, this being my first truck..But I have owned many nitro powered trucks and cars..
Any insight into what I am doing wrong would very much help me....
Thanks and look forward to figuring this out...
 
HobbyWing EzRun 4274 2200KV
Hobbywing EzRun Max8 v3 150A Waterproof Brushless ESC
Running 4S
I am using -100000cst in my centre diff and 60000cst in the front and rear.
 
Do you have the diff cases screwed together tightly?

The case needs to be pretty tightly screwed onto the ring gear to make sure the gears mesh properly without too much play.
 
Maybe share some pics? And describe when and how it happened? That will help diagnose the issue.

Based on your diff oils, sounds like perhaps you are bashing, and not racing? Are you landing big jumps?

These trucks can take even larger motors than yours, and can handle 6s when everything is set up correctly....

It took me 2-3 tries to get everything dialed in, so hang in there. It could be that that your plastic diff cups are failing, which is an easy fix (aluminum diff cups, but usually only needed in the center).

Note that on setups like yours, 100k in the center diff is not that heavy. You might try 300k. I run 100k/300k/60k f/c/r.
 
Sorry I didn’t include more details in my post...
I am mainly bashing and I have the MC2 upgraded aluminium diff cups..
I believe I have figured out what the problem was and it seems that the screws holding the diff together had come loose cause there was some diff oil in the threads and I think it affected the thread lock from working...One thing I have noticed is that the aluminum cups have screw holes that go completely through to the inside of the diff and the stock ones have closed of screw holes so that diff oil can not mix with the thread lock.
Let me know if anyone has any experiences with thread lock not working properly when in contact with diff oil?
Thanks
Ps I placed a blue piece of paper in the diff so it is visible to see the through hole.

image.jpg
 
Sorry I didn’t include more details in my post...
I am mainly bashing and I have the MC2 upgraded aluminium diff cups..
I believe I have figured out what the problem was and it seems that the screws holding the diff together had come loose cause there was some diff oil in the threads and I think it affected the thread lock from working...One thing I have noticed is that the aluminum cups have screw holes that go completely through to the inside of the diff and the stock ones have closed of screw holes so that diff oil can not mix with the thread lock.
Let me know if anyone has any experiences with thread lock not working properly when in contact with diff oil?
Thanks
Ps I placed a blue piece of paper in the diff so it is visible to see the through hole.
Looks like a design flaw of the M2C cups?

On the stock plastic cups the oil can only touch the threads if the diff is overfilled.

Try filling the diff to a slightly lower level and clean the screws using brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tissue.
 
Loose screws will definitely cause your problem. I only run the stock ones, so cant really speak about the aluminum cups.

Hopefully someone else like @Overkill will see this and can chime in with some good advice for you!
 
I use the M2C center diff case and have never had this issue. I would clean out the screw holes really well, clean the screws, use 243 blue loctite which has a better oil tolerance, and let it sit up right for 24 hours. On a side note, the new Tekno steel center diff case does not expose the screws to oil.
 
I use those same diff cups on all 3 of my Tekno's and dont even use threadlock on them. Never had one come apart or strip or anything at all.
 
I'm about to pick up a set of 3 diff cases from M2C. Would you recommend them as a good upgrade for the diffs? Or go with the Tekno upgraded diff cases?

I use those same diff cups on all 3 of my Tekno's and dont even use threadlock on them. Never had one come apart or strip or anything at all.
So its a good idea to skip the threadlock on the M2C diff cases?
 
By the way I just grenaded my rear diff on 6S, after 4 runs. Upgrading diff cases should help with 6S?
.
3164
3165
 
WAS old diff case destroyed as well? I can see the destroyed spider gears, but it's hard to see damage to the case in the pics.
Yes the inside of the diff cup was all chewed up from the gear explosion. Some spider gear teeth where actually stuck in the cup walls. The cup in the pictures is the stock plastic one that came with the kit.
 

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