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Having chassis slap problems...

Clodbusterfan

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I have an EB410 and I am having chassis slapping problems when I jump off a ramp I made thats 7" tall. I heard thats kind of tall but thats what I got. So I have the stock yellow springs. Someone told me to get 55wt in the front and 40wt in the back with the red springs on front and rear which are the firmest for the EB410. What do you guys think about that information I got?
 

Billl DeLong

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Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET48, ET410, MT410, SCT410
Driving Style
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There is always going to be a trade off with setup, what are your driving conditions? Bashing on the street?

Is your only goal to minimize chassis slap? It's actually a good thing to get a single slap, but if the car bounces and doesn't stick the landing then yes, it could need both thicker springs and thicker fluid.

 
Last edited:

nub

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Houston, Texas
Tekno RC's
EB410
Driving Style
Basher
I'd be careful trying to tune out chassis slap. It may not be the correct way of saying it but it's designed in as "part of the suspension" as a limiter. It's pretty normal on vehicle of these types and even larger bashers. Going too stiff is going to transfer more energy into components not designed for it. You could start bending shock stand offs or splitting shock pistons.

I think a crisp slap is a little satisfying because it generally indicates a clean flat landing.
 

Billl DeLong

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710
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Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
EB410, EB48, ET48, ET410, MT410, SCT410
Driving Style
Racer

MAVERICK

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Troy Illinois
Tekno RC's
EB48
I have found that changing tire size, compound, or style (street vs mud)
Can help


I have an EB410 and I am having chassis slapping problems when I jump off a ramp I made thats 7" tall. I heard thats kind of tall but thats what I got. So I have the stock yellow springs. Someone told me to get 55wt in the front and 40wt in the back with the red springs on front and rear which are the firmest for the EB410. What do you guys think about that information I got?
 

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