Fan mount.

[Kinbar the Angry Toaster]

I made a fan mount out of kydex and attached it with gorilla tape HD double sided sticky tape (holds up to 60 lbs).

I really don't want it to come loose, is it okay to drill a small hole in the side rail to further secure the fan mount? I plan on countersinking the screw as much as I can without sacrificing the structural integrity of the side rail and than covering it with another piece of velcro so it will not scratch the body.

I need to do some wire management and I think this project is done. Thank you to everyone who helped along the way.

 

[Billl DeLong]

Should not be a problem, but not sure if the stock body will fit around that mount?

Here's a fan mount that will be a direct fit with the stock body:
https://www.teamthornhillrc.com/Tekno-EB48-20-Carbon-Fiber-Motor-Fan-Mount_p_68.html

 

[Kinbar the Angry Toaster]

I was going to check fit this weekend. I was hoping since they kydex is easily molded with a heat gun, I could re-heat and bend it further if needed. I do like the one you shared, nice tight tucked in fit.

 

[Kinbar the Angry Toaster]

Should not be a problem, but not sure if the stock body will fit around that mount?

Here's a fan mount that will be a direct fit with the stock body:
https://www.teamthornhillrc.com/Tekno-EB48-20-Carbon-Fiber-Motor-Fan-Mount_p_68.html

View attachment 5705

How and where does that fan mount attach to the vehicle. Maybe its lack of coffee but I can not imagine it.

 

[Billl DeLong]

How and where does that fan mount attach to the vehicle. Maybe its lack of coffee but I can not imagine it.

You remove the center chassis brace (I don't know anyone who runs the center or rear chassis braces anyway) and then install the fan mount in place of the brace as pictured

 

[Kinbar the Angry Toaster]

Ok, that makes sense, thank you very much. So flex is not an issue w/o the chassis brace?

 

[Billl DeLong]

Actually, flex is the intended goal by removing the brace, the more flex you get the improved traction, however if you take large jumps and nose dive into the face of a lander, then that extra flex can risk bending the center drive shaft. I always keep a spare center drive shaft in my pit box just in case, but I've taken a fair share of nasty tumbles over the past 9+ race days so far without bending a center shaft yet

 

[Kinbar the Angry Toaster]

Once again, thank you very much.

I ordered the fan mount you suggested, looks a lot less clunky than the one I made.

 

[Supradude26]

Im pretty sure the only place a fan fits on the EB platform is under the center "cab" portion of the body. Ive been looking around for a solid fan mount solution for my 48.4 and EB 2.0 but the one Bill showed is the first one Ive seen made specifically for the EB48's...

 

[pp1710]

I propose a stl mount for 42mm Fan, I can send you stl file.
It work great if motor have vertical cooling

 

[devnull]

PLA? I wouldn't recommend PLA for something so close to a motor. I've been printing polycarbonate/Lexan filament, which is the most heat tolerant material I use presently, and I don't think that would be a good choice for a fan mount like this.

PEI filament would be what I'd be considering. Not an easy filament to print, however.

 

[pp1710]

PLA? I wouldn't recommend PLA for something so close to a motor. I've been printing polycarbonate/Lexan filament, which is the most heat tolerant material I use presently, and I don't think that would be a good choice for a fan mount like this.

PEI filament would be what I'd be considering. Not an easy filament to print, however.

Hi, I use resin touch 3d, motor temp don't exceed 70 degree celsius

 

[devnull]

Hi, I use resin touch 3d, motor temp don't exceed 70 degree Fahrenheit.

I assume that temp is after you added the fan. What was the temperature
before the fan was added?

 

[TBuggy]

70 degrees Fahrenheit? Are you sure you ran the motor before taking the temp, thats just above room temp. I couldn't imagine running my car for even just a few laps and getting a temp that low, even with a fan.

Thats frigid!

 

[pp1710]

70 degrees Fahrenheit? Are you sure you ran the motor before taking the temp, thats just above room temp. I couldn't imagine running my car for even just a few laps and getting a temp that low, even with a fan.

Thats frigid!

Sorry, 70 degrés celsius of course, I have correcting my post

 

[devnull]

70 degrees Fahrenheit? Are you sure you ran the motor before taking the temp, thats just above room temp. I couldn't imagine running my car for even just a few laps and getting a temp that low, even with a fan.

Thats frigid!

Heh.

I thought we had found that utopian motor that actually ran *cooler* than ambient temperature. The Holy Grail!

Or perhaps he lives within the Arctic Circle.

Sorry, 70 degrés celsius of course, I have correcting my post

So you're using what appears to be a standard SLA resin. I don't generally pay attention to SLA resins as I don't have a SLA printer nor am I interested in one due to the engineering qualities I look for in materials just aren't present in SLA resins.

From what I found in a few articles on SLA resins, standard SLA resin is even less heat tolerant than the common PLA you find being used in FDM 3D printers.

Another factor I consider is UV exposure. Not the UV process used to cure SLA parts, but rather exposure to sunlight. Most plastics aren't going to fare well that way, but some are distinctly better than others. Standard SLA resins don't appear to be particularly resistant to UV degradation.

sooooo...yeah, I'd use a different material. But that's just another internet opinion, and everyone knows what those are worth.

 

[error414]

I created mount from fan from PETG. It works buts in not ideal, there isn't enought space for body. I would say that best place would be in the center, because there is body significantly higter.

PLA is worse material for that . Maybe use annelated PLA. Here are tests

There aren't nylon and PC which I think are more suitable for structural parts, not for figures

I'm don't familiar with SLA printers well, however I thought that resin is too britte.

 

[devnull]

PLA is worse material for that . Maybe use annelated PLA. Here are tests

Yes, I'm well aware of that.

PLA is a very strong filament, but its limitations in certain properties such as impact resistance and heat tolerance make it a poor choice for many use cases.

Annealing PLA, or really anything else, looks like an exercise in futiility due to the shrink factor. None of the dimensions you were expecting will be retained. For instance, the fan mount will be more heat tolerant, but you won't be able to mount the fan any more because the screw holes don't align, and whatever fit you have on the motor won't match either. That's not even taking into account the warping that will occur. The test shows fairly thick test pieces. I'll bet that trying to anneal a part with thin walls will not turn out well at all.

There aren't nylon and PC which I think are more suitable for structural parts, not for figures

I've been printing with Matterhackers NylonX (carbon fiber infused nylon), and more recently 3DXTECH CarbonX (carbon fiber infused polycarbonate) as well as SABIC Lexan (polycarbonate). Those are all filaments that are engineering grade materials and generally speaking, much better choices for use cases where structural integrity and high temperature exposure are factors. The finish, especially on the carbon fiber filaments are better than I've had with any other filaments. The Lexan is good, but the finish is similar to what you'd expect of FDM printers.

I can't tell if you're agreeing with that or not, as you use a double negative, which makes it look like you're stating the opposite of what I'd think you are trying to say.

I'm don't familiar with SLA printers well, however I thought that resin is too britte.

That's what I was referring to when I mentioned this:

"I don't generally pay attention to SLA resins as I don't have a SLA printer nor am I interested in one due to the engineering qualities I look for in materials just aren't present in SLA resins."

 

[Kinbar the Angry Toaster]

Unfortunately, I don't have a 3D printer. Now that I am retired, I hope to get one very soon. I got the mount today but all I have are M3 screws which are a little too tight. Can I use a drill to enlarge the hole in the mount so the m3 screws and a nylock nut will fit?

Went ahead and drilled the holes out a weee bit larger. Was able to get the M3s to work. Should I use lock-tite on the screws?

 

[Kinbar the Angry Toaster]

I propose a stl mount for 42mm Fan, I can send you stl file.
It work great if motor have vertical cooling

That mount does look very cool.