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ET410.2 droop

Sroufe7

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What are you guys running for droop? I'll be racing on an indoor clay track this winter and was going to try the box setup but the springs have a lot of room to move around trying to get the droop set.

Thanks for any help.
 

Sroufe7

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I would start out with full droop, then take away some droop only if you need to prevent traction rolls or settle down the front/rear respectively. Many of the pro drivers are cutting off their droop tabs anyway!


Just to make sure I'm on the same page, set the droop to the stock setup and don't worry about the free play in the springs?

Thanks for the Tebo post on FB, that is good to know. This is my first 1/10th scale and things are a little different it seems.
 

Billl DeLong

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No, I'm saying don't even bother installing the droop stops at first, chances are you may not need them.

Don't worry about the slop on the springs, that is normal :)
 

Sroufe7

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No, I'm saying don't even bother installing the droop stops at first, chances are you may not need them.

Don't worry about the slop on the springs, that is normal :)
Simple enough! Thank you for the info!
 

HeavyBag

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As soon as I read the thread title, I knew where it was going ....
1604352764369.png

This time around; stiffer rear springs, and stock suggested ride height being lower, the gap between the spring and the collar is worse on the .2 than the original ET410.

Don't worry Sroufe7, you are not the only one who is scratching' their head. Lots of people post about the ET spring/droop/ride height "phenomenon". It may be normal, but it drove me nuts. It took me quite awhile to get over the whole ordeal 😩 .

Maybe put a small zip tie around the bottom of the spring & through the perch. Run whatever ride height you want/need, and you should not have to worry about spring coming out of perch at full droop.

I do know, on my ride anyways, the springs will settle down after a bit, and required many adjustments of the shock collars during the "break in" of them coils.
 
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