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ET 48 "Random / Stupid Questions" Thread

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I've seen this thread format on other forums for questions that dont need a dedicated thread, and my 1st question fits the brief (I think!).

Following the manual, the rear hub assembly advises 3 shims are placed to the rear, meaning the hub is not central between the arm. Have you stuck with this or moved a shim or 2 to the other side to centralise the hub?
Thats a really helpful guide, and wouldn't have appreciated a couple of mm would have a significant effect!
Second build question, steering limits.

I appreciate this may be a non issue, as I've not yet mounted the shocks, so the front arms drop down as far as they can. When turning the servo saver, the right hand hub moves further, almost to the steering limiter, while the left hand side hub is no where near the steering limiter.

The steering bar tkr8100b is hitting the gear box, as though its the wrong way around..

Edit: typos




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You definitely want to hit both steering stops with equal throw.

Some things to check

1) verify the length between the ball ends on the steering links are identical... best to use a caliper
2) verify the ackermann bar is centered
3) verify all tuning holes used are same on both sides, same number of bump steer washers, etc...
4) don't forget to set EPA so servo doesn't bind when hitting the steering stops.
Thanks @Billl DeLong

Checked 1, 2 and 3. Used calipers for all the links and are within 0.05 mm of each other. Shocks and servo arent instslled yet.

What i can see is block A is .5mm protruding past the end of the chassis, and the bumper doednt fill all the inderside indent.

Should the a block be flush with the end of the chassis?

Maybe just finish the build, chances are the camber settings are off which may be the cause, and that will all get sorted out once the electronics and wheels are installed
Following your advice @Billl DeLong .

I removed the front assembly, as I noticed the end of the servo saver column wasnt parallel with the milled slots of the chassis.

Have corrected them.

I also hadn't fully screwed in one of the droop screws, fixed that too.

The throw is now equal, the ackerman plate continuing to hit the gearbox at max throw.
With the front shocks assembled and attached in the stock position, the throw is perfect, hitting both limits without the ackerman plate hitting the gearbox.


Edit: typo fix.
Edited: Went with the manual...

Next up is the plastic collar tkr1211 that passes through the shock cap.

Should the flat larger side be on the nut side, or on the shock tower side? Instructions suggest shock tower side, but that doesnt leave much surface area for the nut to sit up against?

Top lineup is as per manual.


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Another two questions fron me.

  1. Have used the paper between pinion and spur method to mesh, but theres play and quite a noise as the spur grear clatters between the pinion teeth, i should mesh tighter? Is a mod1 15t pinion.
  2. Servo wire is very snig and touching the bottom of the ESC. Concerned the ESC will melt the servo cable. The bottom casing of the ESC seems not to be metal, so shouldnt get hot enough to melt the servo wire?

Thanks in advance
Trust your guts on the mesh setup. It sounds like it is too loose, but don’t over think it.

Bear in mind that mesh is always too loose until it’s not. If it doesn’t click anymore, it’s not good. Too loose is better than too tight. Hope that helps. ☺️

Never heard about a melting servo wire harness.
Thanks @Nicochau ,

I do recall building an RC10 B44 and I was surprised how noisy the mesh when cranking by hand. Maybe I'll try some thinner paper and am aware too tight aint good.

Hopefully the photo showed how close the servo wire is/touching the ESC. My fear is the hot casing would melt the wire...

Thanks again
The esc isn't going to melt the servo wires. If it does you've got bigger problems, like it's on fire, literally.
I would suggest getting used to setting your mesh by feel. Paper thickness varies and if you're out and about and your motor moves you don't want that ending your day because you don't have a piece of paper. You should be able to find videos online where they will show a close up of the amount of gear rocking there is. Also keep in mind the gears are not always concentric. You want to set your mesh and rotate the spur completely rocking every couple of teeth checking for a tighter spot the then readjust at the tight spot if there is one.
Thanks @nub and @Nicochau

Shall mount the ESC as its currently laid out.

I've meshed many a 1/10 but this is my first 1/8, and will watch the video once tacked down, and ensure I fully rotate the spur.

Thanks again.

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