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Either of these worth buying?

golfmonke

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Hello,

I'm new to RC and am thinking of buying an ET48.3

I've come across these 2 for sale on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/tekno-et48-3-truggy/273950345514?hash=item3fc8b6892a:g:fegAAOSwTm1dJyv5

and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/tekno-et48-3-truggy/273950396903?hash=item3fc8b751e7:g:GvsAAOSwZ6ddJzIH

I was wondering if either of them are worth buying.

I don't know a few things.... one are they in good enough shape to make them worth buying.

Are the included electronics on them a good match for this truck.

Again, never owned an RC before (well should say never owned one that I got running, lol) so need some experienced feedback.
 

Billl DeLong

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For the price, I would personally pass on both... maybe offer each for $350 shipped based on what I am seeing... neither truck has been taken care of from what I see, no telling how much work will be required in rebuilding potentially leaky diffs and shocks... they probably have no idea how many bearings are seized up either because neither looks like they have ever been properly maintained (just an assumption based on what I see) I would be willing to bet the arms and pill inserts will need to be replaced, possibly the out drives too, who knows if any shafts are bent, the condition on the bottom of each chassis shows lots of nasty scratches from rough landings on asphalt or possibly skate parks.

I put very little value in used electronics, I would encourage you to look for a used roller that was well cared for from a racer on RCTech, chances are they did a recent rebuild and will have already replaced all the parts that have been worn.
 

Nicochau

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Hi @golfmonke

What do you want to do with your rig?

If you want to race, then definitely do not go for either these options. Buy new and build fresh.

If you are only bashing, then the question is slightly different. I bought mine used from a racer for all the reasons highlighted by @Billl DeLong .

Pro:
++ rather cheap for an ET48.3
+ RTR, just add batteries and you are good to go
+ some basher upgrades already available, M2C / M3 rear chassis braces
+ basher set of tires (the Sweeps of the first truggy are worth $100 new)

Cons:
- basher owned, see Bill’s comments. Some bashers do good maintenance but they also tend to send their rigs harder
- expect slope and wear on the rig, is it a big problem? Not necessarily and things caan be fixed or minimized
- RTR, you’ll probably want to dump those cheap radios
- cheap electronics, non-sensored combo, is it a big problem? Not necessarily...

Bottom line, there is a reason they are cheaper. Know what you are buying and why. Overall, it’s better to get a rig in better shape. I’m a basher too and my rigs run better sensored electronics. As well as a better radio (started cheap too).

Would I buy one of these? Probably not because I would want better electronics and a better looking chassis. Are they bad? Not if you’re exclusively bashing and ready to maintain and rebuild them to a better shape. For around $500 RTR, you can’t get wrong. I would still try to negotiate them down a bit. Also, message the seller and learn a bit more from him. If he’s an active member of the community, then that’s a huge plus.
 

Nicochau

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That was my gut feeling too, but wasn't sure if that was normal.

Not sure why I didn't think to look at the completed listings...

Found this guy that sold for $525 and it's in much better looking condition.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/tekno-et48-3-truggy-Et48-/163782940098?hash=item26223955c2:g:~7IAAOSwEDhdMTn-&nma=true&si=3dC%2F0XUDUnnp3w%2BWkRMDp9idLPA%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

It is cleaner, but not worth much more.

The servo and the horn look like cheap stock Arrma stuff, expect quick replacement. The ESC/motor combo is older non sensored Castle, could work great.

There is $30 worth of bearings on an ET48.3 that I would still expect to replace.

I would also rebuild diffs and shocks to my liking anyhow.
 

golfmonke

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Hi @golfmonke

What do you want to do with your rig?

.......

Thanks for the detailed response!

I'd love to race, but realistically will only be "racing" with some traffic cones set up on an open field. I don't see many tracks in my area (Raleigh NC)

Bashing doesn't really appeal to me, I guess that could change. I'd like to jump a bit, but nothing crazy. Racing is what really interests me, but looks like its just not in the cards, other than an improvised "track" , racing against myself :)

The chassis bothered me most too, what it looks like to me is the seller started to try and replace the chassis, and couldn't get out the stripped screws on the bottom, hence the dremel marks and just said , screw it, i'll sell it.

@BillDelong mentioned that he thought the arms would need to be replaced which was interesting to me, as i've never seen anybody have to replace the arms, but that's only based off of google/youtube research. Watched one video where a hobby store owner said he's never sold any of these arms, could have been a sales tactic, don't know.

I don't mind doing repairs, but the chassis itself is $130, and if I can't get stripped screws out, it's gonna be a PITA. I plan on using some adhesive chassis protection once I do get a truck.

I've been trying to figure out the sensored/sensorless motor advantages/disadvantages, can't really get any definitive info on it. Why do you feel the sensored motors benefit you/your style of driving?

What features would you be looking for in a radio that the cheap RTR one's don't have and why? I have an older Airtronics MX-3, which is FM, but seems pretty decent.
 

Billl DeLong

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I have never broke an arm on the ET48.3 that I owned, but the holes for the pins would tend to wallow out over time and generate lots of slop. Probably not a big deal for general bashing around,(bashing simply means not racing competitively). Anyway I would typically replace my arms about once a year in order to get the best performance out of the rig. Having a nice tight fitment of all the working parts just makes the car that much easier to drive.

As far as budget radios go, I would recommend Radiolink, you get a huge bang for the buck, more info here:
Which surface radio system is the best?

Here's what I have done to rejuvenate a chassis:
How To Make Custom Chassis Protector

No matter what car you buy used, I would plan to do a complete rebuild regardless, unless you trust the guy who is selling it that he performed proper maintenance on it before selling, that's what I always do to make sure all worn parts are replaced.

Try to get pics of the out drives and ask when they last replaced the pins on the shafts, etc
Pin Replacement Tools
 

golfmonke

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....

Here's what I have done to rejuvenate a chassis:
How To Make Custom Chassis Protector

....

HAHAHA, that's you! That's the exact post that I was planning on following for the chassis protector. Already bookmarked that material on ebay :p

I don't mind replacing the arms, but good to know they didn't actually break, but got sloppy.

I think i'm going to steer clear of these guys (pun intended), but will try and get some pics of the out drives on whatever I buy.

Btw, do you run on 4s or 6S, what kind of speed do you get. From what i've seen, seems to be 45-50mph on 4s? high 50's on 6S?
 

golfmonke

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.......

As far as budget radios go, I would recommend Radiolink, you get a huge bang for the buck, more info here:
Which surface radio system is the best?

........

The radio I have handles up to 5 models.
Has ST D/R
ST/TH Trim
EPA (plan on using at least for throttle as a kind of training mode, to lower the max throttle, if I need it)
ARC( seems to be exponential to me) which seems like it will be useful to make steering/throttle less sensitive in the beginning of the travel.
SERVO REV
SUB TRIM
 

golfmonke

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Got some more pics of the new one for sale..

Posted a message with the ebay link for this guy, but it's awaiting moderation..

They are asking $750

Tekno et48.3 truggy.


Lightly used et48.3

Tekin 2250 truggy Motor

Tekin rx8 esc

Futaba 9353 servo

Aka gridiron’s

Painted body

Clean truck


Due to nature of hobby sold as is











 
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Billl DeLong

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Now that's a pretty darn good deal right there, loaded with quality electronics that will stand the test of time... plus you will not lose much (if any) money if you take good care of it and decide to sell it later.

I do see some surface rust, which can easily be cleaned up with some WD40 PTFE Spray

Be sure to only run those Grid Irons on prepped dirt, such as a baseball field, etc
If you plan to run that truck on the street then you want to invest in some medium compound street tires
 

golfmonke

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What would you offer on it?

It's not RTR, no radio, batteries or charger.

I thought you don't place much value on used electronics :)
 
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golfmonke

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Well, on the ebay listing two of the tire plastics look cracked, so not really putting any value in the tires.

 

Billl DeLong

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Correct, I don't put much value in electronics, however Tekin and Futaba are designed to stand the test of time.... at least the Gen2 Tekin stuff that is :)

I would get Amain pricing for all the items and then take 50% off that amount, that's what I would offer.... I don't think those wheels are cracked, they look like scuff marks... if it were me I'd buff them out with an alcohol pad before I took any pics.
 

devnull

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Looks like aluminum bulkheads too (or maybe just one?) Although they don't look like the Allracing set I have.
 

Billl DeLong

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I don't see aluminum bulkheads nor did he specify that, but I could be mistaken , wouldn't hurt to ask him
 

golfmonke

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I'm thinking somewhere between $600 and $630?

Just asked him if they are aluminum....
 
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