Droop screws

[L3 RC]

How far down does everyone have their droop screws set?

 

[Illestep3]

Im interested to know aswell i screwed mine all the way in for now

 

[L3 RC]

I have mine in just far enough for the steering knuckle to not bind but I did snap a shock shaft right at the top thread where the conical diaphragm sits. I’m thinking that I had too much droop in there. A concrete brick at full speed didn’t help but it’s just odd for a snap to happen there. Luckily, I have a full set of extra mt shocks built that I was gonna put on the Kraton laying around.

 

[RC_User]

Same here, droop to limit steering knuckle from binding. I will add a pic tonight!

 

[RC_User]

Here we are... it actually reduces droop quite a bit where I have it adjusted but it is very true that the steering knuckle makes contact if I go any lower! Not really a problem though!

 

[Charlie Hall]

The droop screw adjustment has always bewildered me. How does it affect the driving of the MT410?

 

[L3 RC]

@RC_User I see that you went with the button head down...

Sounds like you've set the dropp exactly where I did. Wonder how I broke the shaft. I just seems like an odd break to me. WOnder if it was a fluke? I'm actually gonna pull out the dial caliper and set droop to the recommended set up in the manual and see how different that is.

 

[TooTall]

Thanks, I am almost done with my MT410 build and I was wondering where to set them.

TT

 

[Pauly]

@RC_User I see that you went with the button head down...

Sounds like you've set the dropp exactly where I did. Wonder how I broke the shaft. I just seems like an odd break to me. WOnder if it was a fluke? I'm actually gonna pull out the dial caliper and set droop to the recommended set up in the manual and see how different that is.

Button head always down to reduce wear on the droop stops on the chassis. I don't use the ones that come with the MT410. I upgrade to these from the ET/EB

https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1238-droop-adjustment-screws-m4x10mm-8pcs/

 

[RC_User]

yeah for those who are unaware, the ones that came with the MT410 aren't really "droop screws" but normal screws. the specific droop screws (like Pauly mentioned and that most 1/8 scale rigs come with) have hollow shafts with a 2mm hex insert on the bottom of the shaft so you can adjust them from above. Luckily there is a ton of easy clearance to adjust them from the bottom (button head) on this rig (not all rigs are like that) so there is no benefit to get the "real" droop screws for the MT/ET, other than satisfying the upgrade bug! Which we all LOVE to do!

 

[L3 RC]

After the kids were in bed, I decided to bust out the calipers and see what the droop was via shock length as the manual states/defines it and was waaay of. I didn't measure initial/actual but when I set the caliper to 115mm on the front, I was probably 5mm longer than that. So, I flipped the screw around to go button side down and adjusted it to the factory recommended droop of 115mm. The back was even further off and I am quite confident that contributed to the shaft breakage right where the piston rests. Im hoping that by having the shafts 5 to 6mm further into the shock body that this issue doesn't repeat.

Admittedly, one of the reason why I loved building this thing completely is that it taught me stuff that I didn't know or even think to know before.

 

[gearhead455]

Droop has to be set or it will break the shocks and bind the steering. Depending on the track you would run different droop, severe bumps and high jumps more droop. Smooth track high traction less droop.

 

[L3 RC]

Droop has to be set or it will break the shocks and bind the steering. Depending on the track you would run different droop, severe bumps and high jumps more droop. Smooth track high traction less droop.

Unfortunately - or luckily - I am not a racer. Just a backyard basher who likes to live vicarously through my remote control monster trucks by making them do things that I could never get away with in the full scale real world. As a result, droop was never really a thing I thought much about.

The first time I did think about was during assembly when I realized that the steering was binding and noticed the two screws that I had asked myself, "what's the point of these things?!". I figured out half the purpose at that moment but it took some more research to figure out the other half of handling characteristics and the avoidance of shock breakages.

 

[Mongoose]

I’ve got my droop set to the factory spec in the front and rear on my ET and it still binds on that stupid screw in the front when unloaded. It’s only on the left side too.

 

[TooTall]

Good info @L3 RC, I will ned to flip mine over and set it as part of finishing up my build.

TT

 

[Cmbscx10]

I did the upgrade Pault and RCUser mentioned when I built mine and set them to factory and checked for binding. I know jack about suspension so I have to follow the experts. Still playing with spring rates to get rid of the sag in the arse. Orange springs are next in the list to try.

 

[RC_User]

it is kind of annoying how you have to adjust the collars almost all the way down to get rid of the sag. kind of like tekno should have made the springs a bit longer... that seems to be common on a lot of 1/8's though, not sure why that is. saves weight maybe by making them just as long as needed.