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DB48 DB48 It has begun!

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Loving it... i too have been eyeballing the m2c et chassis at amain. using the coupon its $85.49 shipped with the $7.50 off coupon, not bad at all since you're lucky to get the stocker shipped for that much. not sure if i'll get around to it this year though.
definitely interested in how you mount up the body. i used to own a wraith and love the caged body. no more wimpy lexan bodies to replace every few months, i would love to do this conversion just for the bash factor. definitely interested in seeing how you mount up the body.
I should start on the body posts soon. I can’t say I’m not just a little worried. Lol. I’m pretty sure I’ll figure it out. I am not sure on how good the cage will hold up in hard bashing. Well, at least to the way I drive my mt410. I’ll likely only use it to try my luck in the u4rc races. The panels get easier to make. The first one being the most difficult.
 
Your thread was my final push to just go ahead and build one:cool: Parts are on the way and hoping to have it complete for the U4 race on Father's Day weekend. I'll start a build thread as soon as I have enough parts in hand to post one.
 
Your thread was my final push to just go ahead and build one:cool: Parts are on the way and hoping to have it complete for the U4 race on Father's Day weekend. I'll start a build thread as soon as I have enough parts in hand to post one.

Oh yeah. Can't wait to see this one.
 
Hye were you able to source the nomad cockpit and helmets? Can't find them in stock anywhere. Thanks.
 
Hye were you able to source the nomad cockpit and helmets? Can't find them in stock anywhere. Thanks.
No bud, I have looked everyday since I started the project. I will let you know as soon as I find one.
 
Loving it... i too have been eyeballing the m2c et chassis at amain. using the coupon its $85.49 shipped with the $7.50 off coupon, not bad at all since you're lucky to get the stocker shipped for that much. not sure if i'll get around to it this year though.
definitely interested in how you mount up the body. i used to own a wraith and love the caged body. no more wimpy lexan bodies to replace every few months, i would love to do this conversion just for the bash factor. definitely interested in seeing how you mount up the body.
Here is a sneak peek at the back posts. I need to go to hardware store and grab some locking nuts.
image.jpg
 
No bud, I have looked everyday since I started the project. I will let you know as soon as I find one.

Thanks man. I'd appreciate it.:) Rear mount looks good
 
Maybe the Apache C1 cockpit could fit? I have one if you want measurements. I bet it could be made to fit nicely.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Apache...038946&hash=item33e3774346:g:gZkAAOSwn~Javk9j
That sounds like a great alternative. I still have time before I really need it. It’s good to know I have other options.
Maybe the Apache C1 cockpit could fit? I have one if you want measurements. I bet it could be made to fit nicely.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Apache...038946&hash=item33e3774346:g:gZkAAOSwn~Javk9j
Thanks buddy, I’m really hoping they get the nomad cockpit in stock before I need it. If they don’t it’s reassuring to know that there might be other options. I apologize for the late reply. This is my third attempt to reply. Lol
 
I am going to redo the fender panels. They were close enough for now.
97BE2567-E792-405F-A350-1E28ABD225D4.jpeg



I originally thought I wanted the cage to sit lower. Then I realized that the cage would bottom out before chassis. In the near future I will make the front posts more like the rear. At the moment I just want to drive it.
B94DFC14-4481-4205-991F-672B44C595AE.jpeg
64D462E7-2DF5-4C6C-9384-AF7D5922C47D.jpeg
CCBE62C3-7646-4B29-B2FA-59435E538ADD.jpeg
C5E716DA-B94A-4F95-8CB0-B7C00E821766.jpeg
 

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Came out good buddy(y) I need to get mine done this week. I typically don't work on the RC's during the weekend so the wife doesn't murder me:LOL: Have an alternative to the cockpit I'll post soon too;)
 
Came out good buddy(y) I need to get mine done this week. I typically don't work on the RC's during the weekend so the wife doesn't murder me:LOL: Have an alternative to the cockpit I'll post soon too;)
Thank you! I also bought the new b6.1 kit so I needed to finish this project to get started on the next. I’m going to take my db48 to the local track here. No rock racing, but they allow almost anything in the rookie class. I’m going to give it a shot. Should be fun either way.

I’m looking forward to your cockpit idea. At this point I’m not sure how long it will take for the nomad cockpit to come in.
 
Thank you! I also bought the new b6.1 kit so I needed to finish this project to get started on the next. I’m going to take my db48 to the local track here. No rock racing, but they allow almost anything in the rookie class. I’m going to give it a shot. Should be fun either way.

I’m looking forward to your cockpit idea. At this point I’m not sure how long it will take for the nomad cockpit to come in.

Posted in my build thread. Mine was awesome on the short course track on Friday. Wish I got video.
 
I had pulled the electronics out of my MT and installed them on this DB. The last time I used my MT it bogged down after I switched batteries. My first thought was my battery was sagging. The motor temp had shot up to 190f. The lose of power was intermittent and went away for the last few minutes of the pack. I came home and did an inspection on my drivetrain and found a rough center diff bearing. At the time I hoped and thought that was the issue.

Now I tried to run those electronics on my DB and the issue is there again. On a very slow and steady speed it is smooth as silk. When I snap back the throttle it makes a electrical vibration sound (sorry, this is the best I came up with). When the sound happens it has no power but, if I hold the throttle there it responds back to normal. Since I have the cage on I can see the pinion gear and motor. While I hold the cage and try to duplicate the issue I can see the pinion gear do a glitchy vibration when that electrical vibration sound starts.

Any suggestions on what to check? Should I start a new thread on this?

Tekin gen3 esc
Tekin T8 2000kv motor
 
Just got off the phone with tekin. They said it sounds like my motors rotor needs to be replaced.
here is what it looked like when I looked further into it.
 
ahh bummer, pop the end cap off of the motor and take a look at the rotor.. it's real easy.

I've got the same motor and it gets hot, i switched to something else because I didn't want to kill it. My guess is that the Tekin motors are designed for racing, where truggies use really light weight smaller wheels/tires and don't run for a long time... pushing around huge MT tires is a LOT harder on the motors. A fan would probably be a wise investment for every MT running a standard 1/8 motor!
 
Unfortunately I've heard many of the U4 guys are steering clear of Tekin and going Holmes, Castle, or HW because of heat issues and difficulty with the setup. Something along the lines of proper throttle frequency in the ESC to get it setup properly, but I'm a bit unsure on the specifics and have zero knowledge of Tekin setups. I was going to run Holmes in mine, but went with my tried and true HW combo and am quite pleased.
 
ahh bummer, pop the end cap off of the motor and take a look at the rotor.. it's real easy.

I've got the same motor and it gets hot, i switched to something else because I didn't want to kill it. My guess is that the Tekin motors are designed for racing, where truggies use really light weight smaller wheels/tires and don't run for a long time... pushing around huge MT tires is a LOT harder on the motors. A fan would probably be a wise investment for every MT running a standard 1/8 motor!
I agree, these motors get hot with the MT. I’m happy that they sell a replacement rotor for them so I don’t have to spend $160 for a new one. The rotor is $55 though. Many motor options out there for around $80.
 

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