Curvins SCT410.3

[Curvin]

Hey All,

Just purchased a much loved and well maintained SCT410.3 from a professional racer here in Australia , that will be the base for my project. I have been on the lookout for a while and when this was offered to me, I snapped it up.

Truck features a Castle Mamba Monster X ESC and Tekin Pro4 4600KV sensored motor, Savox servo, upgraded aluminium hinge pin braces , servo horn, T-Bone Racing front and rear bumpers/skids. Pictured as it arrived to me, in its racing colors of the previous owner . I also have some spares , including the original unused front and rear bumpers/skids , which I may screw back on. Rear T-Bone hangs out way past the body, which offers good protection, but does look out of place.

I will strip it down and give it a good clean and once over , have some air guards to fit as well as a new ( Pre Painted ) Proline Flotek Raptor SVT body on its way. Also have some additional sets of tyres/rims that I can interchange with its other stablemate, a Hunter DHK BL ( which is also getting a new body and some aluminium upgrades ). I was scratching my head where the on/off switch was, and was informed its a common practice with racers to eliminate the switch as they can cause the trucks to power down in the event of a crash in competition. Not a biggie , I can easily fit one if need be. I have a HPI TF41 TX/RX to finish off the electrics.

Looking forward to diving in and giving it a run up.

 

[WoodiE]

Nice find @Curvin. That SCT410 looks to be in great shape!

 

[Billl DeLong]

Congrats on the new purchase!

I would examine all the pins on the drive shafts, if you see any flat spots starting to form, then I would swap them over to the opposite sides to get more life out of them. Once flat spots form, then you'll want to replace the pins before they dig into the out drives and cause premature wear. I typically replace my pins every 6 months or so, a little more frequently on center rear shaft.

Here is the pin replacement tool that I use:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-seiki-driveshaft-pin-replacement-tool-mugb0541/p221425

 

[Slevin]

Looks great! I’m guessing you will be racing this rig?

Ice suggestion @Billl DeLong!

 

[Curvin]

Thanks all.

@Bill, the previous owner maintained it very well, but I'll give the pins on the driveshafts a closer look, thanks for the heads up.

@Slevin,

The initial idea was to get it as a solid truck to be able to do some bashing without breaking, with the future option of racing the truck if my sons show enough interest. I may even race it myself.

 

[WackyMacky]

Congrats on the new purchase!

I would examine all the pins on the drive shafts, if you see any flat spots starting to form, then I would swap them over to the opposite sides to get more life out of them. Once flat spots form, then you'll want to replace the pins before they dig into the out drives and cause premature wear. I typically replace my pins every 6 months or so, a little more frequently on center rear shaft.

Here is the pin replacement tool that I use:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-seiki-driveshaft-pin-replacement-tool-mugb0541/p221425

Great information- thanks.
Question this tool is very long in the tooth, have any other MFG come out with similar tool? Does Tekno have a tool? Do they address / recommend changing out the pins?

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Congrats Curvin!

And here's to hoping it is a bit more reliable than that Senton Mega. Or at least that you can get parts for it if it breaks...

I finally have my SCT410 running. Mine has the same MMX/Pro4 power, and even on 2s, it is a beast! I am betting you will love yours!

 

[Curvin]

Thanks Jerry,

Oh Man, the Senton , I'll put that down to a learning experience.

ARRMA parts still haven't arrived, but some stock of trucks have and the LHS's are whipping themselves into a frenzy. An old saying comes to mind, give a starving man a cracker... LOL

Once the parts arrive and I stitch it back together, I can't wait to see the back of it, but I digress.

The SCT410 - MMX/Pro4 , yeh I was told by the previous owner the truck is a monster even on 2S, and I believe him. I still need to install the TX/RX and give it a tidy up before given it a run up. Wont be for a few weeks with the silly season already kicking in, but looking forward to giving it a shakedown.

This is the body I managed to pick up , no longer available but I was lucky enough to find one of the last remaining. It wasn't cheap but will look great. Yes I am a Blue Oval fan.

Proline Product Link : Here

I'll pop up some snaps as I progress further.

 

[Supradude26]

Thanks Jerry,

Oh Man, the Senton , I'll put that down to a learning experience.

ARRMA parts still haven't arrived, but some stock of trucks have and the LHS's are whipping themselves into a frenzy. An old saying comes to mind, give a starving man a cracker... LOL

Once the parts arrive and I stitch it back together, I can't wait to see the back of it, but I digress.

The SCT410 - MMX/Pro4 , yeh I was told by the previous owner the truck is a monster even on 2S, and I believe him. I still need to install the TX/RX and give it a tidy up before given it a run up. Wont be for a few weeks with the silly season already kicking in, but looking forward to giving it a shakedown.

This is the body I managed to pick up , no longer available but I was lucky enough to find one of the last remaining. It wasn't cheap but will look great. Yes I am a Blue Oval fan.

Proline Product Link : Here

I'll pop up some snaps as I progress further.

I have that body, the unpainted version from back a couple years ago when I had a tricked out slash. I have now set it up to run on my SCT.3 and I really like it...

 

[Curvin]

Getting there slowly.

I partially pulled the truck down , left electronics/motor in place , gave everything a good once over inspection, clean , reversed the velcro straps ( removed center strap as it interferes with some of my preferred batteries ), neatened up the wiring, installed a HSF to the motor , installed and re-bound the TX/RX .

Refitted the standard bumpers for the interim, the front T-Bone needs a little TLC as the front screw holes had pretty much pulled through, the rear is fine, but hangs out way past where the original sits, so my OCD kicked in.

Still need to refit the side wings and air guards, and will be redoing the shocks.

Even sitting on the stand testing the RX/TX , I can feel how immediate the throttle response is with the Tekin, the car is going to be a weapon I suspect.

@Jerry-rigged ,

Seeing you have the same electronic setup, I thought I'd run something past you.

The MMX ESC emits beeps periodically , even tho everything is correctly bound and working as expected. I have read though the FAQ's and troubleshooting guides, but no mention of that particular behavior. Still haven't worked out exactly why its doing it. Battery for testing is at Storage charge, so I wonder if its a LCV warning ?

I didn't connect the AUX wire, as I didn't think I'd needing be it, and wasn't used by previous owner.

Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.

I have a Castle Link USB V3 on the way.

P.S : Seasons Greetings , all the best for the Festive Season and New Year to one and all.

 

[Slevin]

Getting there slowly.

I partially pulled the truck down , left electronics/motor in place , gave everything a good once over inspection, clean , reversed the velcro straps ( removed center strap as it interferes with some of my preferred batteries ), neatened up the wiring, installed a HSF to the motor , installed and re-bound the TX/RX .

Refitted the standard bumpers for the interim, the front T-Bone needs a little TLC as the front screw holes had pretty much pulled through, the rear is fine, but hangs out way past where the original sits, so my OCD kicked in.

Still need to refit the side wings and air guards, and will be redoing the shocks.

Even sitting on the stand, testing the RX/TX , I can feel how immediate the throttle response is with the Tekin, the car is going to be a weapon I suspect.

@Jerry-rigged ,

Seeing you have the same electronic setup, I thought I'd run something past you.

The MMX ESC emits beeps periodically , even tho everything is correctly bound and working as expected. I have read though the FAQ's and troubleshooting guides, but no mention of that particular behavior. Still haven't worked out exactly why its doing it. Battery for testing is at Storage charge, so I wonder if its a LCV warning ?

I didn't connect the AUX wire, as I didn't think I'd needing be it, and wasn't used by previous owner.

Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.

I have a Castle Link USB V3 on the way.

P.S : Seasons Greetings , all the best for the Festive Season and New Year to one and all.

It beeps every 10 seconds to let you know that it is on. I noticed the same thing when I had one and asked the very same question

The truck is looking very awesome!

 

[Curvin]

@Slevin,

Thank you , glad to hear it is normal ( if odd ) behavior for the MMX ESC.

Just working through the shock rebuild now, the oil that was in the F/R seems a lot lighter than what I would normally run on the other SCT's ( 50F/40R ) , so will be re-oiling to those weight, so at least I know exactly what is in the shocks, and work from there. The previous owner had the truck setup for clay/smooth tracks, so I will need to adjust accordingly.

With the supplied oil the rear was very soft and would also droop significantly just sitting, which was also due the rear springs being very light ( Pink 85mm ). It had very little rebound. I also have some spare rear Black 80mm, which are lighter again. Fronts are 70mm, but I can't see any other color code on them. They are noticeably stiffer. They could be matching Pinks.

I pulled the shocks completely down, checked all the shafts, pistons, spacers and o-rings, some were a little smoother on reassembly. I couldn't really see any notable differences. I'll make a final note once I complete the reassembly with the fresh oil /springs.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

It beeps every 10 seconds to let you know that it is on. I noticed the same thing when I had one and asked the very same question

The truck is looking very awesome!

Yup. I think I did read that somewhere in a manual, so it is in there...

 

[JuanDLAT78]

It could also be that data logging is full. It's been a while since it happened to me, but I think it beeped more frequently than every 10 seconds. It would even beep while running. Don't know if it can be cleared with out a castle link.

 

[Curvin]

Thanks guys,

Yeh I did read about the data-logging and thought that could also be the issue, as it is beeping more frequently than 10 seconds come to think of it.

I have a Castle Link on the way, so I'll have a play.

Do you guys run the additional AUX cable from the ESC to the Receiver, and if so, is it correct that the wire orientation is towards the center (+) ?

 

[Curvin]

Heads up, I contacted T-Bone Racing to see whether the warranty on the front bumper was transferred to new ownership.

I am happy to report that they responded promptly and that the lifetime warranty does in fact transfer to the new owner. After sending some snapshots of the damage ( front screw holes enlarged/ screws partially pulled through , crack from screw hole to side ), they replaced the bumper, only charging my $9.95USD for international postage.

Awesome products and support , highly recommended !

 

[Slevin]

Heads up, I contacted T-Bone Racing to see whether the warranty on the front bumper was transferred to new ownership.

I am happy to report that they responded promptly and that the lifetime warranty does in fact transfer to the new owner. After sending some snapshots of the damage ( front screw holes enlarged/ screws partially pulled through , crack from screw hole to side ), they replaced the bumper, only charging my $9.95USD for international postage.

Awesome products and support , highly recommended !

That is really good to know!

 

[Curvin]

Edging forward, shocks have been rebuilt but I am waiting on some replacement boots before signing off on the rebuild. Shocks are currently off the truck in the snapshot , but I have fitted the air guards and have also reamed the holes into the new body.

Re Mounting the new SVT body , I will be doing something a little different in that regard, as I'll be using some customised body posts with Proline Body Mount Secure Loc hardware , instead of using body clips. Proline did have a mounting kit specifically for the SCT410 a while back, but no longer available. I thought I'd have a go at fabbing one up.

I'll keep the original posts/clips for the spare basher body.

Quick question re what wheels / tyres are others are using ?

I have some Proline F-11's with Proline Blocades that came with truck and more suitable for racing, and some Serpent SRX2 with J Concept Choppers for bashing to use primarily on the truck , both 0 offset. The Serpents are touch and go with rubbing , so may eventually swap them out for some other rims. I also have multiple sets of JConcepts Hazard+3mm offset rims with AKA Impact Tyres that I can use as well.

I have had the trial by fire of learning to glue SCT tyres to rims, and even Acetone stripping tyres off wrong offset rims without damage and re-gluing to fresh correct offset rims. Watched some videos and read a few forum posts/articles and did a pretty reasonable job. The Acetone fume method is time consuming, but worked a treat , FWIW.

Castle Link has arrived as well.

 

[TBuggy]

looking good!

 

[Curvin]

Getting to the final stages , shocks rebuilt , new custom shock boots using 350Q Black Twisting Balloons, new SVT body installed but not without some caveats and qualms.

I still have a Proline Loc Cap Body Mount Kit to install.

Initial plan was for this to be the race set up with the SVT body, but best laid plans. Dimensions/Specs are listed as TLR SCTE, and they are very close, problem being available bodies that are listed as SCTE compatible vary in width/wheelbase, and not by small amounts. Unfortunately for me the SVT body has the smallest dimensions in both width and wheelbase, even compared to the other Proline FloTek bodies, resulting in the body being 6mm narrower and wheelbase being 15mm shorter. Not huge but when placed in scale, not good.

Wheelbase could be amended with some trimming of the rear wheel arches and would be common I suspect, as all the Prolines bodies fall short of the TLR/Tekno wheelbase , but the width is something I can't address, and on compression the tyres are hitting the wheel arches , even with 0 offset rims , let alone the ROAR legal + 3mm offset rims I have as alternates.

So in short , SVT body is the shelf/display body , the original body will be redeployed with the T-Bone Racing Bumpers as the bash / practice set up.

I'll keep an eye out for some SH bodies to have a play with re test fitting, etc, having a Ford themed race livery is still not off the list , but I am not buying blind again, and have learned my lesson re falling for the eye candy of the pre painted without tripe checking dimensions.

Yet to give it a shakedown, I'll do that once I reinstall the bumpers, bash tyres and original body.

Out of interest, what bodies are others using, and what mods if any were required ?