I am currently finishing up my MT and am using a Proline 2017 F150 Raptor body, Dboots Backflips wheels and tires, a JX CLS-HV7346MG servo, Arrma BLX185 motor and ESC with a Futaba 4PLS radio. I can't wait to get it done and test it out.
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Pics or it didn't happen @Chevys10zr2003I am currently finishing up my MT and am using a Proline 2017 F150 Raptor body, Dboots Backflips wheels and tires, a JX CLS-HV7346MG servo, Arrma BLX185 motor and ESC with a Futaba 4PLS radio. I can't wait to get it done and test it out.
Oh trust me I will put pics up when I get it completed. Hopefully it will be within the next week. I'm excited to try out my Banggood bargain serve to see how it performs.Pics or it didn't happen @Chevys10zr2003
Lol I looked for a video and didn't see one before I posted that. You posted it after I made my post so that's why I didnt see anything lol. I'll check it out and maybe try building them again. Thanks a lot @WoodiE.@Chevys10zr2003 Ryan Lutz has a good video on how he suggests building the Tekno RC shocks, check out the thread How to build Tekno shocks.
Oh trust me I will put pics up when I get it completed. Hopefully it will be within the next week. I'm excited to try out my Banggood bargain serve to see how it performs.
Oh I also forgot that I am also adding a 20a Castle BEC and Futaba external voltage sensor to keep an eye on my batteries.
Yeah I have read very good things about the JX servos so I figured I would give it a shot. It was like $50 but it has the specs of a $150+ servo so I figured I would give it a shot. Besides the 4 week shipping it feels solid but we will see how it performs after I finish the car and the snow goes away. If it is awesome I will need to get three more for my Arrmas.I got a bargain Banggood servo in my SCT410.3. I got the JX PDI-6221MG. For $13 I ain't complaining.
Yeah I have read very good things about the JX servos so I figured I would give it a shot. It was like $50 but it has the specs of a $150+ servo so I figured I would give it a shot. Besides the 4 week shipping it feels solid but we will see how it performs after I finish the car and the snow goes away. If it is awesome I will need to get three more for my Arrmas.
When I was assembling my shocks, I couldn't get them to stop bleeding out of the holes in the caps for the rear shocks. I tightened them to the point that I stripped the stock plastic caps. I now have metal caps and tighten them down until the bottom of the cap bottoms out against the shock body......AND THEY STILL LEAK OUT OF THE HOLES!
I have talked to some people out there and I am going to run them as is and if they keep leaking I will grind down the shock caps to get a better squeeze on the shock bladder but wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue.
When I was assembling my shocks, I couldn't get them to stop bleeding out of the holes in the caps for the rear shocks. I tightened them to the point that I stripped the stock plastic caps. I now have metal caps and tighten them down until the bottom of the cap bottoms out against the shock body......AND THEY STILL LEAK OUT OF THE HOLES!
I have talked to some people out there and I am going to run them as is and if they keep leaking I will grind down the shock caps to get a better squeeze on the shock bladder but wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue.
might have to change brand..
Pics or it didn't happen @Chevys10zr2003
Pics or it didn't happen @Chevys10zr2003
Yes the bladders were in there first. I don't know if I got an out of tolerance shock body or what but I will try it as is first.I'm still using the stock plastic caps and they don't leak at all. They been through some huge jumps to flat landing and still good. Make sure you put your bladders in the cap first before assembling. That will keep the bladder from shifting while threading the cap.
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