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Buying second hand MT410

rflx

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Hi everybody đź‘‹

It looks like im going to drive out to buy a second hand MT410 this week. However, i am pretty nervous about spending all that money on a something with no warranty, so i was hoping to get some advice here. Can you owners give me some pointers on what parts i should be most worried about in terms of wear and tear? What might be worth inspecting closely? Is there something like specific sounds i should listen for?

Also, can any europeans/germans tell me about their experiences with part support?

Thank you for any help.
 

DangerD

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part support is no issue, you get everything need from microspeed, metz etc.

i would check for leaking/bend shocks, working diffs, bend hinge pins or worn out diff couplers & hinge ping inserts. also all the bearings.
 

Ifti

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The above checks would take a while and require some disassembly. Not sure if thats practical with your seller.

I would ask to run the truck just to check motor and ESC etc are working OK (assuming it comes with electronics?). The seller should have no problem with you doing this.
Inspect what you can from the exterior. Check for bends or cracks. Check the chassis to ensure it is straight and in good condition. Inspect each arm and compress to check the shocks and make sure they seem reasonably smooth and straight.

Once you are reasonably confident, if you do end up purchasing, I would use the manual and disassemble the truck somewhat. Replace the shock fluid to your liking. Open and check the diffs for fluid and grease as well as condition of the gears etc. Clean all the bearings and hinge pins as you go. This will be a little involved and the seller may not allow you to disassemble too much before even purchasing. It will take some time, and the seller wouldn't want to be left with a disassembled truck should you decide not to purchase!

All parts can be replaced - the idea is to minimise what you need to spend on to replace by checking as much as you can beforehand. But theres only so much you can inspect at point of sale.....

Good luck - report back with how it goes and some images!
 

Nicochau

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Tekno RC's
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  2. ET48
  3. MT410
I bought a majority of my RCs online and used. Not a biggy, face to face is even better.

First of all, you need to define what is the “right price”. That is a price that is good enough to make you feel comfortable and will allow for fixing budget. When buying used, upgrades can be essential. If the truck has the bumper or the wheels you wanted, that’s a lot of money you are saving down the road, don’t get a truck that has tons of upgrades you don’t care about. There is little likelihood you’ll be getting them for free unless it is truly an amazing deal.

Second thing is I talk to the guy a lot. Actually, I stand corrected, I have him talk... a lot! People talk and they tell you stuff. They give tons of information that will allow you to understand how they treated their stuff and whether it is likely to be able to pull a great bargain.

Third is check it and run it! Bad excuses are a NO GO. Ask the guy to bring a battery and transmitter to be able to do a quick run. You do not need 30 min run or to go and jump it. You just need two minutes on a parking lot to check the electronics and see if it is composed or not. If stuff is bent, it will likely show up rather quickly.

i check:
Chassis - visual looking for wear
Outdrives - visual looking for wear
Pins on dog bones - visual
Axles - visual bent?
Driveline - visual bent?
Hinge pins - moving arms
Shocks - compressing suspension
Diffs - turning wheels
Electronics- run it

MT410 is a basher, that’s your challenge in itself. If you feel the guy has run it a lot including big stunts, I would pass. Don’t buy a rig that’s been beat up to death or that is too warn out. If the rig has significant wear and maintenance is good, chances are the guy will have tons of parts to give with it. Look for those type of details. Run away from a warn out rig that comes with zero parts. It is likely the guy never did maintenance on it.

Only when you are clear about what you have on hand (and all the above), you can start talking about the price. Take your time, set a price target and work your way there. Give reasons for lowering the price. Make a realistic statement using the information he gave you in order to explain your offer. Be ready to walk away at all times. Never forget one thing, cash is king it is hard to say no to a cash offer made now and here. Give the guy some time to accept your offer, don’t expect immediate response, play with the rig while he thinks about it.
 
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rflx

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I doubt i will be able to get into the diffs or look at individual bearings before i buy. But the other tips you guys gave sound very sensible, so thanks to both of you!

The truck comes with electronics (Hobbywing Max8 plus a 4s Motor) and the seller has agreed on me taking the truck up and down the street a couple of times. Even though i am a sucker for displays of ridiculous power, reading in this forum and browsing some youtube leads me to believe that i will be fine running on 4s.
It comes without a body. I'm hoping i can fit an Arrma Notorious shell...
All parts can be replaced - the idea is to minimise what you need to spend on to replace by checking as much as you can beforehand. But theres only so much you can inspect at point of sale.....
Yeah, thats what i figured. Replacing some stuff is fine, i just don't want to buy a heap of junk. Im still pretty new to hobby grade RC and had no idea what to look out for.
Disassembling sounds like a good idea. Gives me an opportunity to taste some of the kit-building joy :love:

Good luck - report back with how it goes and some images!
Thanks, will do! Super excited already :)

I bought a majority of my RCs online and used. Not a biggy, face to face is even better.

First of all, you need to define what is the “right price”. That is a price that is good enough to make you feel comfortable and will allow for fixing budget. When buying used, upgrades can be essential. If the truck has the bumper or the wheels you wanted, that’s a lot of money you are saving down the road, don’t get a truck that has tons of upgrades you don’t care about. There is little likelihood you’ll be getting them for free unless it is truly an amazing deal.

Second thing is I talk to the guy a lot. Actually, I stand corrected, I have him talk... a lot! People talk and they tell you stuff. They give tons of information that will allow you to understand how they treated their stuff and whether it is likely to be able to pull a great bargain.

Third is check it and run it! Bad excuses are a NO GO. Ask the guy to bring a battery and transmitter to be able to do a quick run. You do not need 30 min run or to go and jump it. You just need two minutes on a parking lot to check the electronics and see if it is composed or not. If stuff is bent, it will likely show up rather quickly.

i check:
Chassis - visual
Outdrives - visual
Pins on dog bones - visual
Hinge pins - moving arms
Shocks - compressing suspension
Diffs - turning wheels
Electronics- run it

MT410 is a basher, that’s your challenge. If you feel the guy has run it a lot including big stunts, I would pass. Don’t buy a rig that’s been beat up to death or that is too warn out. If the rig has significant wear and maintenance is good, chances are the guy will have tons of parts to give with it. Look for those type of details. Run away from a warn out rig that comes with zero parts. It is likely the guy never did maintenance on it.

Only when you are clear about what you have on hand (and all the above), you can start talking about the price. Take your time, set a price target and work your way there. Give reasons for lowering the price. Make a realistic statement using the information he gave you in order to explain your offer. Be ready to walk away at all times.
Thank you, very helpful advice! I will try to get some more information from the seller.
The thing has pretty much exactly the upgrades that i myself would have done out of the box. I would have gone with different (bigger) tires, but thats about it.
 
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Nicochau

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Tekno RC's
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  2. ET48
  3. MT410
I doubt i will be able to get into the diffs or look at individual bearings before i buy. But the other tips you guys gave sound very sensible, so thanks to both of you!
...

Thank you, very helpful advice! I will try to get some more information from the seller.
The thing has pretty much exactly the upgrades that i myself would have done out of the box. I would have gone with different (bigger) tires, but thats about it.

Checking diffs is very simple: rotate a wheel and expect the opposite wheel is turning smoothly in opposite direction.

Smaller tires are actually often better than bigger & heavier. lol

Try to get detailed pictures and post them here. This group has a eye for details.
 

rflx

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Checking diffs is very simple: rotate a wheel and expect the opposite wheel is turning smoothly in opposite direction.

Smaller tires are actually often better than bigger & heavier. lol

Try to get detailed pictures and post them here. This group has a eye for details.
I admit i don't really know what tires i like because i have never driven this kind of RC :D

Here are the pictures, i'm happy if anyone takes a look. The tires are proline badlands, not sure which size exactly.
 

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Sludog

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  2. MT410
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First question, Why he's selling? It's good to know how long its been for sale too. I doubt your the first to look at it and if other buyers passed then then could have found some issues. Be careful of too low of a price. Ive seen these trucks go for around $1000 RTR with midlevel electronics. Rollers for $350. Just saw one sell on eBay bone stock for $695 + $50 shipping minus radio /receiver. Seller admitted it was well used but not abused. In the photos looked pretty dirty and all the screws top and bottom were rusty so seller probably did not take some time and wipe down after each run which to me means he would not take the time to servicing shocks and differentials. For that money you could buy a new kit and go with cheaper Arrma electronics to start with and then upgrade later to the good stuff.
 

Sludog

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  2. MT410
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I admit i don't really know what tires i like because i have never driven this kind of RC :D

Here are the pictures, i'm happy if anyone takes a look. The tires are proline badlands, not sure which size exactly.
Doesn't look bad. Is the servo good? I see its disconnected. How much is he asking?
 
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rflx

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He is willing to sell for 500€. Since it comes without a remote and shell, this seemed fair but not suspiciously low to me. Plus it fits my budget (I was originally going to buy an Outcast 6s). In terms of upgrades it's got the shroud, metal servo horn and a steel spur gear. From what i have read, those seem to be the essentials.

The servo is this one. I don't know much about servos, but it seemed adequate for the job.

It looks like the truck has been for sale for about a month. However, I think there is just not many people looking for a second hand tekno. The current amount of views on the ad is what an Outcast/Kraton ad gets after 1 or 2 days on the platform. The dynamics on these sites are just weird to me. People seem to be buying 6s Outcasts for more than 400€, even though the retail price is at 450€ right now (including taxes).

Owner says he's quitting the RC hobby. He has driven the truck for about a year (on 4s) and since then it's been sitting on the shelf.

Again, thank you all for taking an interest and helping me out!

*Edit: Is it normal having to wait for a moderator to approve every post i make? Or just because my account is new?
 
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Nicochau

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  2. ET48
  3. MT410
@rflx those pics don't look bad at all. Plastics, axles, dogbone pins, outdrives are actually rather clean. The chassis looks like it has more mileage than the rest of the truck... It could be just the pic. First impression is rather good.

Ask him to reconnect the servo and all for a quick test run. Again, you don't want to jump it for the test run, you just want to make sure the electronics is working and nothing is obviously weared.

Those are 3.8 Badlands, they baloon a bit, but they are excellent off road all around performers on 4s.
 

Ifti

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i agree - doesn't look too bad at all.
Again, my only thought was "why is the servo disconnected"? Maybe the servo is a dud and needs replacement? Even so, move the steering link by hand to make sure the wheels turn freely and nothing is binding.
 

Sludog

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  2. MT410
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If it drives straight and sounds good then go for it. Anything can be replaced on these trucks and there are tons of upgrades when thing do break. Seems like you're comfortable with the price. Maybe try shaving a few buck offs his asking price. He may have an advantage if they're in short supply in your area. Tell him you need to buy a radio, receiver, body and batteries and maybe hell cave in a bit. It comes to about $550 here in the states which is a good deal if the electronics are in good working order.
To me the joy was in the build. In the states a new kit is $450, Arrma BLX esc and motor $120 on eBay, Servos start around $40, a set of Arrma backflips $60 and body for $40 leave a few bucks for paint and tools and you good to go for around $800. Of course you need radio receiver and batteries but you'll already need to buy that with the used one you buy. Again not sure the pricing where you live so I would imagine they are much higher if items are in short supply.
Let us know how it goes.
 

Nicochau

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  2. ET48
  3. MT410
I think I would get it for 500€.

It can all be fixed and every part is changeable. Not to mention Tekno gives you 50% discount on all replacement parts.

This is race grade quality kit, you’ll be pleased with it.
 

rflx

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If it drives straight and sounds good then go for it. Anything can be replaced on these trucks and there are tons of upgrades when thing do break. Seems like you're comfortable with the price. Maybe try shaving a few buck offs his asking price. He may have an advantage if they're in short supply in your area. Tell him you need to buy a radio, receiver, body and batteries and maybe hell cave in a bit. It comes to about $550 here in the states which is a good deal if the electronics are in good working order.
To me the joy was in the build. In the states a new kit is $450, Arrma BLX esc and motor $120 on eBay, Servos start around $40, a set of Arrma backflips $60 and body for $40 leave a few bucks for paint and tools and you good to go for around $800. Of course you need radio receiver and batteries but you'll already need to buy that with the used one you buy. Again not sure the pricing where you live so I would imagine they are much higher if items are in short supply.
Let us know how it goes.
For most RC stuff 1$ (before taxes) seems about equal to 1€ (including taxes). I estimate that, starting from a kit, it would take me more than 1,000€ to be RTR. I would have liked to build a kit. But while i enjoy wrenching on my Arrma, i get most joy out of the bashing part :D

Are you referring to the Backflip MT6s or the Backflip LPs? I have some trouble figuring out the difference between the two. I was thinking about ordering some replacement tires right away, since my short course truck seems to be eating about one tire per week.

I think I would get it for 500€.

It can all be fixed and every part is changeable. Not to mention Tekno gives you 50% discount on all replacement parts.

This is race grade quality kit, you’ll be pleased with it.
I don't have much hope regarding the discount. As i understand it, i would have to pay for shipping the broken part to greece in order to get a discount voucher. Then i can only use that discount voucher to order a replacement part from the US. Can anybody from europe confirm that this is the only route? Besides having to wait for a long time, I don't know if any single part is even expensive enough that the 50% off would cover all the shipping.

I am totally fine with paying a little extra for replacement parts if less stuff breaks overall though. And from all that i have read, Tekno rigs seem to be top of the line in that regard :) I'm going to head out after work today and hopefully return with a light wallet and a sweet truck!
 

Nicochau

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  3. MT410
Backflips LP (found on the 4s version) are more than enough tire for the truck. But there is no rush, those bashing tires live a lot longer than your racing tires.

I agree regards to the warranty discount. It is not very practical. I mainly look at it as an insurance. I one day hit a curb almost full speed due to radio failure. Had to change the chassis and whole bunch of parts. Had to do a ground up rebuild. That one time, I saved $130 to $140 on my bill.
 

rflx

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I just brought the MT410 into it's new home :giggle:
The seller was super nice and seemed really meticulous about maintenance, which I took as a very good sign. Everything about the car looks great and I can't wait to send it over a ramp.

Again, thank you all for your help. This place is great!
 

rflx

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I am really eager to drive this thing. Since the new shell will probably not arrive before monday, i used a body i had at hand. As you can see, i went for a logistics/amazon kind of theme. I'll take it for a spin on 3s later today.
 

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Ifti

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Sweet dude!
That body even has a racing stripe and everything!
 

Sludog

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  2. MT410
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I am really eager to drive this thing. Since the new shell will probably not arrive before monday, i used a body i had at hand. As you can see, i went for a logistics/amazon kind of theme. I'll take it for a spin on 3s later today.
Amazon already experimenting with drone deliveries. They see this and we may have thousands or RC trucks delivering items as well. 🤣
 

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