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Another noob in need of build help

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freelosophy

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Finally got the MT410 yesterday . . . am at bag E and having a hell of a time figuring out what insert (TKR5163) to use on the rear end C and D block. Can't find one specific that's recommended. I can follow instructions but am stomped here. I'll keep looking for youtube videos on this and I'll come back here in a few. Hoping somebody knows what am talking about cause I don't know what insert to use.
TY bros~!
 
I get it, use the one dot and continue. After running it try different offset if necessary or desired. Seems you can adjust this 43 different ways or more. All stock one dot.
 
The one with the Hole in the middle. That's the stock one.
 
This is off of TeknoRC.com
Screen Shot 2020-06-29 at 3.47.20 PM.png


It may help you when wanting to make adjustments in the future. They have a few build tips on their site that I recommend everyone looking through if they haven't.
https://www.teknorc.com/vehicle-setup-adjustments-and-build-tips/
 
I missed the build tips, what was I doing. . . thanks bro gonna go read all of them now! am waiting for the shock tool to assemble the shocks. everything looks so pretty so far and don't want to mess up the shafts. since I gotta wait for the monster X 1515-2200 combo anyways figure I exercise the little patience I have left and wait for the tool (and everything else). no question the worse part of this hobby so far is waiting for the dam parts.
 
the MT410 is built ! what a wonderful experience. i can only compare it to the granite blx and even noob me can see there's no comparing it. After reading all the stuff here I decided to also install all the M2C upgrades, 6760 front shock brace, 6905 center brace, 6970 go big rear brace and 6755 short rear brace. my GOD it's a tank, no flex at all. I got the trenchers big tires and they are enormous (got a feeling am gonna need some backflips soon). Next is the body, just finished grounding out the stubs from the body mounts and drilled them so I can use the proline mounts that screw on. The monsterx and 1515/2200kv combo should be here wednesday. But ther real hang up for me is the dam tbone front bumper. The wheelie bar from tbone is in but back order the front bumper. not sure where the tbone front bumper will be available and don't want to cut, punch holes and paint the body and ruin it cause the bumper hits. it's my first body and don't want to screw it up. Not sure what else to do but wait. tbone been out of the front bumper since early July. any ideas on a front bashing bumper other than tbone's? maybe I just need more patience and more indica?
 
with all those braces, are you jumping 50 ft? flex can be good... if something cannot flex, it might snap instead... or just wear other parts faster. These teknos are very strong even without aftermarket braces. I wonder how much weight you added with all the bracing? Mt410 chassis is only 50$, 50% off that with tekno warranty exchange.

I am curious if m2c braces help with the body mounting. My mt410 plastic body mount piece that bolts between the standoffs and shock tower, keeps letting the standoff slip through the plastic when my truck lands on its roof.- cant believe tekno used this bad design. does m2c brace change that plastic piece to aluminum?

The stock mt410 front bumper looks good to me, i would not let a backordered "upgrade" keep me from having fun. speaking from experience, mt410 almost never lands on the front bumper. it rides wheelies up jumps and thru the air, landing on all 4 wheels, rear wheels, or upside down.
The stock rear bumper has no wheels, pretty surprising oversight from tekno.

My et48 has no bumpers... and it is still really tanky
I am very curious to know if the shock tower braces help with the body mount situation.

BTW you are going to be VERY satisfied with that motor/esc combo. it just barely fits in the mt410 :D i run mine with 17T pinion and 30% pounch control.
 
the m2c brace sandwiches the plastic body mount piece between the aluminum shock tower and the m2c brace addition. One for the front and one for the back. the front brace drills two holes outside of the shock standoffs to secure the body mount to the brace when it is out past the shock tower. Its pretty stable, but I saw a pic on here in the ET48.3 section of a guy that bent even the braced shock tower (minus the body mount of course)... lol everything will break.
 
hell i dunno, i got a granite blx and got the rc virus bad. loving my granite really, but i'll rate myself now as an intermediate noob lol. I can feel little driving differences that I couldn't before . . . I got the m2c braces cause I figured better to do it while everything is straight than to fix it and brace it later. but again dunno I through the extra 100 bucks on the m2c stuff hopefully I did the right thing figure that I protect the investment. I wanna jump can't yet but am gonna!!!! the esc/motor combo should be here late in the week. right now am trying to figure out the how high it should sit. the rear is lower than the front and the front has more travel to. not sure if I need to redo the rear shocks or if the rear is supposed to sit lower to the ground. I think I need to check out the rear suspension. So another question from this noob, with all wheels on the ground should the chassis be parallel to the ground (i think so) or does it tilt backwards raising the front a little. sure appreciate your knowledge dudes. btw the rear is leveled but the front arches up. not sure if I should bring the rear up the front down or live it alone. lol.
 
hell i dunno, i got a granite blx and got the rc virus bad. loving my granite really, but i'll rate myself now as an intermediate noob lol. I can feel little driving differences that I couldn't before . . . I got the m2c braces cause I figured better to do it while everything is straight than to fix it and brace it later. but again dunno I through the extra 100 bucks on the m2c stuff hopefully I did the right thing figure that I protect the investment. I wanna jump can't yet but am gonna!!!! the esc/motor combo should be here late in the week. right now am trying to figure out the how high it should sit. the rear is lower than the front and the front has more travel to. not sure if I need to redo the rear shocks or if the rear is supposed to sit lower to the ground. I think I need to check out the rear suspension. So another question from this noob, with all wheels on the ground should the chassis be parallel to the ground (i think so) or does it tilt backwards raising the front a little. sure appreciate your knowledge dudes. btw the rear is leveled but the front arches up. not sure if I should bring the rear up the front down or live it alone. lol.
My eb48.3 suspension front tilts down rear is up it looks level but it’s not it was set To race mode, but now I’m Converted to all street bashing, I’m running mmx 2200 combo 16t 44metal spur, this thing is fast on 6s with complete avid bearings.
 
well, it's done! the mamba monster x /2200 motor combo arrived friday and it's all in and yes it was tight! But it's real sweet. I dunno enough to comment on performance and it's going out this afternoon for a test drive. the tbone front bumper is the only and last thing left to install. with a 4 cell battery installed and body the total weight is 12.1 pounds (less the tbone front bumper, man when is that going to arrive). I put on all four of the m2c braces for the stock chassis. my only concern now maybe the savon1270 not sure if that's going to hold up. no jumping till the front bumper comes in, gotta keep repeating that to myself as I now drive out for the 1st test drive :) oh yeah, I just want to say that it sucks that castle doesn't include the dam USB connector so you can set the BEC voltage. defaults to 5 volts and my stuff can run at 8 but gotta wait (again) for the dam little connector. that should be included with all ESC shipments that need to use it. how much can cost that cost castle in volume? certainly less than a buck. ok, am calm again.
 

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