• Welcome to Tekno RC Forums! Are you a Tekno RC fan? If so you're in luck as you've have arrived to the biggest and best Tekno RC community.

    Come join our community and ask your questions, show off your Tekno RCs and share your experience!

410.3 A bit disappointed

HLSheppard

Member
Messages
12
Reaction score
6
Very first track day with my new SCT 410.3. I didn’t even get half way through a battery when a large tear opened up in the sidewall of one of my Proline Gladiator tires (also brand new). I was able to glue it and get back out after some suspension tweaks. This is my local carpet track that I always run on. ET410.2 and Associated B 6.3 buggy have broken nothing.

Glanced off the side of the track (yes, glance vs slamming directly into it, etc) and this happened:

50 bucks in parts ordered but this is really bugging me. My other Teknos have been awesome and I bought this one specifically for how tough they are supposed to be. Hopefully just a fluke but…

Is the carpet the issue? Just bad luck?
 

Attachments

  • 93E3D652-DAF8-4EE8-A1B0-EBB77B1FF691.jpeg
    93E3D652-DAF8-4EE8-A1B0-EBB77B1FF691.jpeg
    152.6 KB · Views: 75
Last edited:

Billl DeLong

Well-known member
TF Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
1,081
Reaction score
901
Location
Austin, TX
Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
Gladiators are not carpet tires, not sure what ProLine offers today but Z3 compound was what I ran back in the day, more info here:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/build-review-sct410-3.1389/post-16232

My definition of a glance is a slight wall tap at low speed, in order to snap those parts the truck had to be going pretty darn fast and WOT. My best guess is those Gladiators were so soft they grabbed something off the track and shredded those parts.
I rarely broke any parts on the SCT410.3, when I last drove it a couple years back but the single most important upgrade was the TBR front bumper which drastically improved the durability... they recently went out of business, so if I were to run this class myself today I would make my own custom bumper out of a sheet of 1/8" Kydex that you can order off Amazon.

Here's what it looks like for reference:
1662844839891.png
 
Messages
212
Reaction score
139
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET410
  3. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
... local carpet track that I always run on. Et410.3 and Associated B 6.3 buggy have broken nothing.

Glanced off the side of the track (yes, glance vs slamming directly into it, etc) and this happened:

50 bucks in parts ordered but this is really bugging me. My other Teknos have been awesome and I bought this one specifically for how tough they are supposed to be. Hopefully just a fluke but…

Is the carpet the issue? Just bad luck?
Holy crap! I've been away from RCing for a couple of weeks and the ET410.3 came out! :p:ROFLMAO: You had me going on a frantic search. You got me.;)

I'm sure glad I don't race anymore where I would have a chance of glancing off something with the SCT... I'll stick to bashin' my RCs.;)

You had bad luck.
 

HLSheppard

Member
Messages
12
Reaction score
6
Holy crap! I've been away from RCing for a couple of weeks and the ET410.3 came out! :p:ROFLMAO: You had me going on a frantic search. You got me.;)

I'm sure glad I don't race anymore where I would have a chance of glancing off something with the SCT... I'll stick to bashin' my RCs.;)

You had bad luck.
Ha! Sorry about that. Fat-fingered it.
 

RC_User

Well-known member
TF Excellence Award
Messages
507
Reaction score
264
Location
Seattle Area
Tekno RC's
  1. SCT410
Driving Style
Racer
I concur - to bend that driveshaft you must have hit harder than you think. I would call it bad luck and give it another shot.
I have crashed my SCT410.3 at least 100 times on a rough outdoor dirt track with many jumps- flown over the wall, cartwheeled it countless times, send it just for fun and come up short, and never broken anything - it has truly been the most durable RC I've ever owned. I'm amazed at the end of every race day that i've never had to replace a single part. As outdated as it is (I've been thinking about doing the SCT conversion on an ET410.2) I honestly don't think anything else would hold up like this old 1/8th designed SCT does.
Meanwhile just the other day a friend broke the rear hub landing on his ET410.2 ... sure you can get the exotek aluminum upgrade hub but the SCT410.3's rear hub are larger and i've never heard of one breaking. But I get it - Anything can break if it hits just right...

But I know how you feel - I just built a 1/10 buggy (not the tekno unfortunately) and on its maiden run, tooled around the track 1 time at medium speed, then hit the first jump and landed just perfectly diagonally down on the front arm and snapped it in half. less than 1 minute on the car and it broke. I was SO angry and determined to get rid of the car asap (meanwhile my friend with the EB410.2 has crashed a million times and never broken) But I happened to have a spare pair of arms, so I put one on, and now have had a few successful race days w/o any problems or breakage. I just had an epic moment of bad luck landing just perfectly wrong. It happens... I'd say fix it and give it another shot. If it breaks again in the same way, it must be the perfect impact angle on a weak spot on the sct front hub design...

TLDR:
i call it a fluke; give it another chance
 

HLSheppard

Member
Messages
12
Reaction score
6
I concur - to bend that driveshaft you must have hit harder than you think. I would call it bad luck and give it another shot.
I have crashed my SCT410.3 at least 100 times on a rough outdoor dirt track with many jumps- flown over the wall, cartwheeled it countless times, send it just for fun and come up short, and never broken anything - it has truly been the most durable RC I've ever owned. I'm amazed at the end of every race day that i've never had to replace a single part. As outdated as it is (I've been thinking about doing the SCT conversion on an ET410.2) I honestly don't think anything else would hold up like this old 1/8th designed SCT does.
Meanwhile just the other day a friend broke the rear hub landing on his ET410.2 ... sure you can get the exotek aluminum upgrade hub but the SCT410.3's rear hub are larger and i've never heard of one breaking. But I get it - Anything can break if it hits just right...

But I know how you feel - I just built a 1/10 buggy (not the tekno unfortunately) and on its maiden run, tooled around the track 1 time at medium speed, then hit the first jump and landed just perfectly diagonally down on the front arm and snapped it in half. less than 1 minute on the car and it broke. I was SO angry and determined to get rid of the car asap (meanwhile my friend with the EB410.2 has crashed a million times and never broken) But I happened to have a spare pair of arms, so I put one on, and now have had a few successful race days w/o any problems or breakage. I just had an epic moment of bad luck landing just perfectly wrong. It happens... I'd say fix it and give it another shot. If it breaks again in the same way, it must be the perfect impact angle on a weak spot on the sct front hub design...

TLDR:
i call it a fluke; give it another chance
I appreciate the response. I’m going to fix it and am hoping it will be ‘bulletproof’ thereafter. :)
 
Messages
212
Reaction score
139
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET410
  3. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
For piece of mind, and looking at the carnage, I'd have to check the inner hinge pin.

Now you have me almost second guessing my SCT410.3 purchase. There's been a slew of talk on new Tekno SCT kits since the price drop. I know one online hobby store, where I got my kit, sold out at least three times in the past few months. Makes me wonder if newer production kits had a quality control issue of some sort. I don't know. I have not seen other people commenting on your area of concern.

For years, I've sat back listening to people use terms like "Tekno Tuff", or "Tekno Tanks". During assembly of my first Tekno (ET410), I was blown away with design of parts. The composite used in the plastic... I hope they never change it. Sure, a weak point shows up; revision(s) made, and issue fixed. After putting the mini truggy through its paces, that Tekno toughness on the 1/10 scale had me hooked on their platforms.

Everything has a breaking point. You just got the raw end of the deal of what may have looked like a minor deflection.

I look forward to you getting back out there and giving the SCT another go around.
 
Messages
847
Reaction score
621
Location
Los Angeles
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
  3. MT410
Driving Style
Basher
The SCT is a beast of a truck, i really wouldn’t be too concerned. Now bear in mind that bullet proof does not exist in the RC world. You’ll continue to break stuff, especially at the beginning while you learn the truck.

Things get a lot better over time, as you start to know the limits of your truck and move on from fixing your truck “every racing weekend “ to only fixing once in a while.

In the meantime, use the Tekno warranty (50% off, no question asked) to fix and get some spares.
 

HLSheppard

Member
Messages
12
Reaction score
6
For piece of mind, and looking at the carnage, I'd have to check the inner hinge pin.

Now you have me almost second guessing my SCT410.3 purchase. There's been a slew of talk on new Tekno SCT kits since the price drop. I know one online hobby store, where I got my kit, sold out at least three times in the past few months. Makes me wonder if newer production kits had a quality control issue of some sort. I don't know. I have not seen other people commenting on your area of concern.

For years, I've sat back listening to people use terms like "Tekno Tuff", or "Tekno Tanks". During assembly of my first Tekno (ET410), I was blown away with design of parts. The composite used in the plastic... I hope they never change it. Sure, a weak point shows up; revision(s) made, and issue fixed. After putting the mini truggy through its paces, that Tekno toughness on the 1/10 scale had me hooked on their platforms.

Everything has a breaking point. You just got the raw end of the deal of what may have looked like a minor deflection.

I look forward to you getting back out there and giving the SCT another go around.
Absolutely fair. I *think* the lower screw /spindke bushing may have been loose and caused this. Even though I’ve read about checking them (which I did) the lower screw and sleeve were on the track.

The button head screw and spindle bushing on the bottom we’re gone and the hole was partially deformed. Makes me think that was the proximate cause.

Now - what to do to avoid this? Thread locker and plastic? That doesn’t seem effective.
 

nub

Well-known member
Messages
146
Reaction score
108
Location
Texas
Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. MT410
  5. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
I would call it bad luck and not over analyze it. I've lawn darted, tumbled, cartwheeled at a pretty good clip, been t-boned by bigger rigs and not broken anything. One thing I have broken is the A hinge pin block, twice. A composite and aluminum both from hitting a concrete block which was my fault.

I give it a good eyeballing and nut and bolt between packs. Every time. For whatever reason more comes loose on my SCT than any other rig I've ever had.
 

Ruzty1311

Member
Messages
23
Reaction score
9
I have WAAAY more breakages with my ET410 than I do with my SCT (.2 and .3) lol On my ET I have cracked so far 2 front bulkheads, a font steering tie rod end, and the plastic center brace that connects the front to the center diff in about 3 months of practice days. Going on and trying big triples and sometimes quads I guess does that to it hah But my SCT I have not broken a single thing and I've crashed equal to or harder in it haha
 

76jimmy

Active member
Messages
38
Reaction score
28
We've all had days when we just can't get it right at the track. Usually winds up costing a few bucks.
 
Messages
212
Reaction score
139
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET410
  3. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
Absolutely fair. I *think* the lower screw /spindke bushing may have been loose and caused this. Even though I’ve read about checking them (which I did) the lower screw and sleeve were on the track.

The button head screw and spindle bushing on the bottom we’re gone and the hole was partially deformed. Makes me think that was the proximate cause.

Now - what to do to avoid this? Thread locker and plastic? That doesn’t seem effective.
When trying to find that perfect "snugness", screwing things into plastic, I will use a hex driver
with a smaller diameter handle (18mm?) and use my fingertips to better judge when screw has bottomed out (so as not to strip the hole).
1664726359468.png


I find my "full sized" handle hex driver gives me too much torqueing ability.
51znfxdgJEL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
Last edited:
Messages
212
Reaction score
139
Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET410
  3. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
Okay. It's my turn to call out a disappointment (for me anyway) on the kit. The recessed areas for the nuts. The plastic that is supposed to grab hold of/surround the nuts, in certain areas, is not strong enough to allow the amount of tightness that I like. The Akerman Plate was my main concern. Tightening the screw and nut that secures the turnbuckle... the nut would just turn inside the "pocket".

Next disappointment is no center diff/spur gear cover. This is my disappointment across all brands that don't address this issue for their RCs that get in the hands of daily "bashers". Even some of the people in the racing community will report pebbles getting onboard, and ruining a great run. I can see myself having a mesh type cover on hand for when the times comes.
 

nub

Well-known member
Messages
146
Reaction score
108
Location
Texas
Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. MT410
  5. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
The recessed areas for the nuts. The plastic that is supposed to grab hold of/surround the nuts, in certain areas, is not strong enough to allow the amount of tightness that I like. The Akerman Plate was my main concern. Tightening the screw and nut that secures the turnbuckle... the nut would just turn inside the "pocket".

Yep, this. The camber links to the hubs and the servo link to the servo saver. I've had to squeeze down on the plastic with pliers to get them apart. I dremal the pocket away making it flat so I can put a wrench or socket on the nut.
 

KnowAir

Well-known member
Messages
102
Reaction score
82
Yep, this. The camber links to the hubs and the servo link to the servo saver. I've had to squeeze down on the plastic with pliers to get them apart. I dremal the pocket away making it flat so I can put a wrench or socket on the nut.
Great idea! I recently built an sct410.3 myself, went together pretty much perfectly. I did have the nuts slipping in the plastic Ackerman plate as well. I used needle nose to hold them while tightening but like your idea better. Thanks!
I blasted a tree with it like 3 days after finishing the build..snapped the plastic A block, popped the sway bar link off the pivot, but thats it. It was a solid hit for sure, say 25mph to bouncing backwards off the tree. I was impressed, no bent hinge pin or shock shaft.
Love the sct, even more than my mt410 TBH. Both great however.
 

Hector_Fisher

Active member
Messages
34
Reaction score
27
Location
WA
Tekno RC's
  1. MT410
  2. SCT410
Gladiators are not carpet tires, not sure what ProLine offers today but Z3 compound was what I ran back in the day, more info here:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/build-review-sct410-3.1389/post-16232

My definition of a glance is a slight wall tap at low speed, in order to snap those parts the truck had to be going pretty darn fast and WOT. My best guess is those Gladiators were so soft they grabbed something off the track and shredded those parts.
I rarely broke any parts on the SCT410.3, when I last drove it a couple years back but the single most important upgrade was the TBR front bumper which drastically improved the durability... they recently went out of business, so if I were to run this class myself today I would make my own custom bumper out of a sheet of 1/8" Kydex that you can order off Amazon.

Here's what it looks like for reference:
View attachment 8775
OP, sorry to thread jack a little bit. @Billl DeLong i've never worked with kydex, but I'm very interested in making a bumper for the SCT since Tbone went out of business. Is kydex flexible/durable enough for RC uses? Wondering if it's a "next best thing" type of deal, or if it does a solid job and just requires effort on your part to form?
 

Recent Popular Liked

Top