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48.3 diff cups!

VRC

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Hey everyone,
Hope all’s well...I’m curious if people have problems with the composite diff cups on the 48.3’s. I’m seeing indentation where the planetary pin sit in the cups. Which is causing the car to pull when heavy throttle is applied. Is this common? BTW, I’m running 4s. If so, would this be a good time to buy hardened steel diff cups? Has anyone been using these? How are they? Thnx friend...stay safe :)))
 

Klappars

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Hey everyone,
Hope all’s well...I’m curious if people have problems with the composite diff cups on the 48.3’s. I’m seeing indentation where the planetary pin sit in the cups. Which is causing the car to pull when heavy throttle is applied. Is this common? BTW, I’m running 4s. If so, would this be a good time to buy hardened steel diff cups? Has anyone been using these? How are they? Thnx friend...stay safe :)))
This is entirely expected wear. The diff output cups will get notches in them over times from the driveshaft pins digging in. Although I must admit that even though I run 6S a lot in my ET48.3 I rarely have to replace diff outputs from excess wear, the wear rate is very slow.

I would suggest making sure your driveshaft pins are in good condition so they don't cause excess wear to the cups and also I recommend using a mid level punch setting on your ESC, not the maximum, as the vast instant torque will wear driveline components faster.
 
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TBuggy

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I have never felt the need for metal diff cases myself. How long have you been running your .3?
 
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Billl DeLong

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It's very important to replace your pins at the first hint of any flat spots starting to form, I typically replace the pins every 40-60 battery pack cycles as an average wear life for me:
The center rear shaft pins will tend to wear faster than any other pin on my car, like more in the 30-40 pack range for those pins
 

TBuggy

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Hey everyone,
Hope all’s well...I’m curious if people have problems with the composite diff cups on the 48.3’s. I’m seeing indentation where the planetary pin sit in the cups. Which is causing the car to pull when heavy throttle is applied. Is this common? BTW, I’m running 4s. If so, would this be a good time to buy hardened steel diff cups? Has anyone been using these? How are they? Thnx friend...stay safe :)))
Correct me if I am wrong, but I am under the impression you are referring to diff cases and not the outdrives?
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5113-differential-case-frontcenterrear/

I assume this since you are referring to diff cups being composite (there are no composite outdrives for the tekno) and you are referring to the planetary pins.

Just making sure you get the answers you are looking for.
 
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Billl DeLong

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I just re-read the OP and I think you're right @TBuggy, it sounds like he meant to refer to the diff case instead. If the cross pins are melting into the diff case, then chances are you are "cooking" your diff. This can be caused by having empty diffs or fluid that isn't thick enough. A good starting point for the diffs on the EB48 would be:

20K Front
15K Middle
10K Rear

Then use the following tuning guide to make adjustments for your driving style:

 
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VRC

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I have never felt the need for metal diff cases myself. How long have you been running your .3?
Probably 6mnths. Not totally sure. I bought it used so I don’t have a good base to start with the wear. That is why I’m asking. I’ve probably run in the neighborhood of 50 packs thru it.
 

Nicochau

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50 packs is a lot of runtime and your diffs where probably not fresh to start with. Were they out of fluid when you opened them? That could explain it.
 

Billl DeLong

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It's a good idea to regularly replace your diff and shock fluids after every 20-25 battery packs, also repack the bearings and all rubber seals with fresh grease as well as clean your suspension pins and inspect replace any worn/bent pins throughout the chassis.
 

VRC

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50 packs is a lot of runtime and your diffs where probably not fresh to start with. Were they out of fluid when you opened them? That could explain it.
Ya, they were out of fluid.
 
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